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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know allot of people don't understand why someone would build a 2wd truck up. But what you must realize is there is a whole world out there of people building 2wheel drive trucks and 4wd trucks to race off road!

I started my off-roading on a dirt bike and have ridden and driven everything I could get my hands on in the last 14 years. Everything from Dirt bikes to rock crawlers.

I truely enjoy all off-road sports! I love to drive fast off road but sometimes I prefer a nice slow rock crawl thru our local mountains. Now that my main truck is pretty much all rock Crawler. It was time for a new project!

I picked up this 86 toyota almost a year ago, it has a little history with me. it was my Step dads truck for a long time. As a 14-16 year old kid I would have killed for this truck! And had allot of dreams as a teenager of someday building it up to a bad ass little race truck!

Well that day has come! Me, Corey, Mcfadden dale and a couple others tore into the truck about a month ago stripping out the interior pulling the bed off and throwing away all the useless junk!

We started the cage work shortly after that! Our plans are to cage it front to rear with 1.5in .120 wall dom tubing. The front clip will be lopped off and a full Tundra Fiber glass clip is going to be our choice for the front of this truck.

Here you can see the cage work we have already started.

This is anther shot of the roof. We still have more tube work to do but were waiting for an order of .090 wall tubing. I have this idea of a super lite 2wd race truck that is super safe and really light!

We still need to finish the back wall.



The Plan is to build this truck for MDR next year. We want to finish it this year, test the shit out of it! Make sure we have a solid little truck, maybe enter one race at the end of the year just to get our feet wet then start fresh the following year in 06.
We already have Deaver sponsoring the rear springs for the suspension. Super Turf has vowed to sponsor our entry and race fee's. And the rest remains to be determined!

So have an open mind, sometimes you can have fun with 2wheels spinning also!
More pics to come soon!
 

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My first new truck was an 86 Toyota that went from low Rider 86-88 to prerunner 88-94 to SAS 94-01. I sold it when I transfered overseas, couldnt afford to repair from a roll my 16 yr old daughter subjected it to. I loved that truck. My biggest regret over the years was the SAS. That truck handled everything in prerunner form.
I dont care if it is considered a mini or doesnt have a tcase and front axle thats one tuff truck, please keep posting progress and pics.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
aor4x4 said:
What are you going to do with the front suspension? Are you going by a rule book for a class, or go with the 1450 pre-runner class? Sounds like with the tundra glass, you'll be 1450 or 7 open..
Were aiming for 1450 pre-runner class.

I have an image of what I want and how I want it too work and that don't fit any of the other classes! I don't want crazy amount of Hp I want it reliable quick truck, I don't want a super heavy complicated truck, I want it to be simple and reliable.
I'm pretty new at the whole MDR race thing so I'm taking it one step at a time.

To answer your question on suspension were talking to Camburg about modifying one of there old kits they don't sell a whole lot of anymore. And maybe Kreg over at Donahoe will hook me up with some one off 10in coil overs for the front and 18in bypasses for the rear
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
tbplus10 said:
My first new truck was an 86 Toyota that went from low Rider 86-88 to prerunner 88-94 to SAS 94-01. I sold it when I transfered overseas, couldnt afford to repair from a roll my 16 yr old daughter subjected it to. I loved that truck. My biggest regret over the years was the SAS. That truck handled everything in prerunner form.
I dont care if it is considered a mini or doesnt have a tcase and front axle thats one tuff truck, please keep posting progress and pics.

Tim
Will do! This truck bounced around our family and friends. I found it in the back yard of one of my friends. I guess his son (the last owner) went to jail for a little while and left this truck to rot! I got it to run again and drove it back and forth to work for a couple months.

I will most likly drive it again daily after it's done. I want to make sure it can run mile after mile and I also think you get a better feeling for a truck when you drive it daily!
 

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strong work jason! :cool: Fawk you are building all sorts of cool stuff these days. How is your SAS taco doing, you get the last few things sorted out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
PappaF2 said:
strong work jason! :cool: Fawk you are building all sorts of cool stuff these days. How is your SAS taco doing, you get the last few things sorted out?
I'm actully typing this then heading out there to play witha few more things it's ready to wheel. But I want to do some little things here and there!
 

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aor4x4 said:
What are you going to do with the front suspension? Are you going by a rule book for a class, or go with the 1450 pre-runner class? Sounds like with the tundra glass, you'll be 1450 or 7 open..
1450 for sure, I am thinking it might race, but is going to become more of a toy than anything else. hey did you guys ever run a 22r motor? what stuff can be removed from it? im looking to clean up the fenders before I chop them off and theres tons of stuff on there that can/needs to go.. but I cant find anyone who can inform me!
 

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DesertTRD said:
1450 for sure, I am thinking it might race, but is going to become more of a toy than anything else. hey did you guys ever run a 22r motor? what stuff can be removed from it? im looking to clean up the fenders before I chop them off and theres tons of stuff on there that can/needs to go.. but I cant find anyone who can inform me!
Yes, Early 22R with a big valve 20R head. Everything was removed from the engine that isn't needed. No vacumn stuff at all except for the old Power breaks, and vacumn port off of the valve cover. The Igniter and stock fuse box is bolted to the cage work. The EGR port off the back of the intake side of the head was blocked off. You can remove pretty much everything from the body.. Do you have to worry about emissions for a driver?? In Colorado we don't have emissions what so ever. (at least in Junction) We also found that Trannys are a huge problem.. the 5 speeds are weak.. and blew a new one almost every other race.. The 84-88 4speeds were much stronger, and lasted 2-3 races. The new tranny will be a Supra 6 speed!!with a 3RZ Tacoma motor in front of it!! The 22R Race motor blew in Laughlin.. We have the 20R big valve head for sale if you know of anyone.. and a 38mm weber with the 20R intake thats been played with a little..

Here is a picture of the Right front shock mount / engine cage. I'll try to get more pictues of the whole lay out as soon as the damn Digi cam decides to work!
 

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aor4x4 said:
Yes, Early 22R with a big valve 20R head. Everything was removed from the engine that isn't needed. No vacumn stuff at all except for the old Power breaks, and vacumn port off of the valve cover. The Igniter and stock fuse box is bolted to the cage work. The EGR port off the back of the intake side of the head was blocked off. You can remove pretty much everything from the body.. Do you have to worry about emissions for a driver?? In Colorado we don't have emissions what so ever. (at least in Junction) We also found that Trannys are a huge problem.. the 5 speeds are weak.. and blew a new one almost every other race.. The 84-88 4speeds were much stronger, and lasted 2-3 races. The new tranny will be a Supra 6 speed!!with a 3RZ Tacoma motor in front of it!! The 22R Race motor blew in Laughlin.. We have the 20R big valve head for sale if you know of anyone.. and a 38mm weber with the 20R intake thats been played with a little..

Here is a picture of the Right front shock mount / engine cage. I'll try to get more pictues of the whole lay out as soon as the damn Digi cam decides to work!
we do have to worry a little about emissions because jason "Thinks" hes going to drive it on the street everyday, but im sure that wont happen (the motor is going to be too loud / ticket magnet) i guess i can start stripping the motor then, i didnt want to cut the fenders off until we had everything moved up and off the motor that can come off, this way its just a matter of remounting a radiator to a core support (wont be hard at all)
 

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DesertTRD said:
we do have to worry a little about emissions because jason "Thinks" hes going to drive it on the street everyday, but im sure that wont happen (the motor is going to be too loud / ticket magnet) i guess i can start stripping the motor then, i didnt want to cut the fenders off until we had everything moved up and off the motor that can come off, this way its just a matter of remounting a radiator to a core support (wont be hard at all)
If you use the Tundra Clip like Jason said, I guess you won't need anything from the firewall forward. All of your goodies like the radiator, and fuse box can easily be mounted to the tube work. Mounting stock headlights to tube work can be kinda fun though..
 

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aor4x4 said:
If you use the Tundra Clip like Jason said, I guess you won't need anything from the firewall forward. All of your goodies like the radiator, and fuse box can easily be mounted to the tube work. Mounting stock headlights to tube work can be kinda fun though..
yea im still thinking through on teh tundra clip, we really dont need something that large, maybe a taco clip instead... the arms are only going to be 3" over or so.. not 5+ like everyone else running that large of a front end...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
aor4x4 said:
Yes, Early 22R with a big valve 20R head. Everything was removed from the engine that isn't needed. No vacumn stuff at all except for the old Power breaks, and vacumn port off of the valve cover. The Igniter and stock fuse box is bolted to the cage work. The EGR port off the back of the intake side of the head was blocked off. You can remove pretty much everything from the body.. Do you have to worry about emissions for a driver?? In Colorado we don't have emissions what so ever. (at least in Junction) We also found that Trannys are a huge problem.. the 5 speeds are weak.. and blew a new one almost every other race.. The 84-88 4speeds were much stronger, and lasted 2-3 races. The new tranny will be a Supra 6 speed!!with a 3RZ Tacoma motor in front of it!! The 22R Race motor blew in Laughlin.. We have the 20R big valve head for sale if you know of anyone.. and a 38mm weber with the 20R intake thats been played with a little..

Here is a picture of the Right front shock mount / engine cage. I'll try to get more pictues of the whole lay out as soon as the damn Digi cam decides to work!
It has the 4spd, I planned to rebuild the motor in it and do the 38mm carb, cam, and headers. I was told you can only do the 20r head on the older 22r's? the 84-85? Is this true?

Smog shouldn't be a problem, I still want to be able to drive it on the street. I know it won't be "legal" but neither is my truck!

Do you think it's better to rebuild the motor in it or go with a tacoma 2.4-2.7 4cylinder? Or 3.4?
 

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cb77DEMELLO said:
It has the 4spd, I planned to rebuild the motor in it and do the 38mm carb, cam, and headers. I was told you can only do the 20r head on the older 22r's? the 84-85? Is this true?

Smog shouldn't be a problem, I still want to be able to drive it on the street. I know it won't be "legal" but neither is my truck!

Do you think it's better to rebuild the motor in it or go with a tacoma 2.4-2.7 4cylinder? Or 3.4?
If you've got the time and money do the 2.7 3RZ swap.. the 22r engines are only good for about 130-140 and less than 6500 RPM's with a 38 weber. A reliable engine, but lacks the grunt needed for a competitive racer. The 3RZ come with 150hp stock, with a few tweeks, like a T-Body, intake work, and exhaust, and maybe a pair of cam shafts.. 180-200hp is doable. Most of the CORE short coarse trucks run a 2.4 2RZ, with huge amounts of work, over 200 HP and a redline of over 10,000 RPM's. Not a good motor for a desert rig though. A almost stock 3RZ is the way i would lean.. If you have to do the 22R, like you were saying, 81-84 is the only one you can use with the 20R head that would be a direct bolt on. The later 85-95 22R can be used, but extensive machining will have to be done, with different Rods, and timing chain.. not at all worth the money.

the 3RZ 2.7 will bolt up to your tranny, you would have to change the mounts on the frame for the engine to bolt to. (which you should do anyway, for which ever motor goes in) If you decide on the 2.7, the tranny won'y last long.. They just can't handle the abuse of the motor reving, and the rearend bouncing getting traction, and slipping. A Tacoma 2wd tranny would be a good swap, or a Supra 5 or 6 speed, with a Turbo 22rec 4wd truck bell housing. Then... onto the rear end.. 35 spline Ford 9" with a Detroit, or full spool. and most likely a 5.38 gear set.. should spin 33's nice.. the truck would top out about 98-100mph on the dry lake beds.

3.4 swap would be cool, but the engine is heavey, big, and won't rev like the 2.7 will. The tourque of the 3.4 would be nice, I would still lean towards the 2.7..
 

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aor4x4 said:
If you've got the time and money do the 2.7 3RZ swap.. the 22r engines are only good for about 130-140 and less than 6500 RPM's with a 38 weber. A reliable engine, but lacks the grunt needed for a competitive racer. The 3RZ come with 150hp stock, with a few tweeks, like a T-Body, intake work, and exhaust, and maybe a pair of cam shafts.. 180-200hp is doable. Most of the CORE short coarse trucks run a 2.4 2RZ, with huge amounts of work, over 200 HP and a redline of over 10,000 RPM's. Not a good motor for a desert rig though. A almost stock 3RZ is the way i would lean.. If you have to do the 22R, like you were saying, 81-84 is the only one you can use with the 20R head that would be a direct bolt on. The later 85-95 22R can be used, but extensive machining will have to be done, with different Rods, and timing chain.. not at all worth the money.

the 3RZ 2.7 will bolt up to your tranny, you would have to change the mounts on the frame for the engine to bolt to. (which you should do anyway, for which ever motor goes in) If you decide on the 2.7, the tranny won'y last long.. They just can't handle the abuse of the motor reving, and the rearend bouncing getting traction, and slipping. A Tacoma 2wd tranny would be a good swap, or a Supra 5 or 6 speed, with a Turbo 22rec 4wd truck bell housing. Then... onto the rear end.. 35 spline Ford 9" with a Detroit, or full spool. and most likely a 5.38 gear set.. should spin 33's nice.. the truck would top out about 98-100mph on the dry lake beds.

3.4 swap would be cool, but the engine is heavey, big, and won't rev like the 2.7 will. The tourque of the 3.4 would be nice, I would still lean towards the 2.7..
im liking the 2.7 and a auto tranny (gate shifter biatch) yea it wont be instant power transfer but itshould be ok with the transfer loads of the engine to tranny to axle.. (torque converters are good things)
 

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DesertTRD said:
im liking the 2.7 and a auto tranny (gate shifter biatch) yea it wont be instant power transfer but itshould be ok with the transfer loads of the engine to tranny to axle.. (torque converters are good things)
we've toyed with the Auto tranny idea.. too much power loss. Some guys like the Auto over the manual... With a Toyota, you need all the help you can get.. plus Ivan ran a 5 speed in his Tundra Trophy truck right!!
 

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aor4x4 said:
we've toyed with the Auto tranny idea.. too much power loss. Some guys like the Auto over the manual... With a Toyota, you need all the help you can get.. plus Ivan ran a 5 speed in his Tundra Trophy truck right!!
lol true... you always gotta bring the big guy into it :)

So now i just gotta get jason to buy the motor... :)
 
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