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Discussion Starter #1
I have a goal, and that goal is to run two air compressors to my two 5 gallon air tanks. From that system I want to be able to fill up my tires, run an arb air locker, and run air tools for a short period of time, maybe just a blow gun to dust off.

I already have an ARB air compressor running to my air locker and also to my tanks. I have a MV-1050 that I want to incorporate into the system.

Below is a diagram of what I want to try to do.



I want to try and keep the arb on its own pressure switch running between 80/105 using a check valve. I want the MV-1050 to run up to 135 psi to fill the air tanks.

At psi's lower then 105, I want both compressors to run at the same time for filling up the tanks or tires.

Will the check valves work as I hope and seperate the two systems once it reaches above 105 psi, so that I will protect my air locker, while still allowing the other compressor to work up to 135 psi in the tanks?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After thinking about it, one of the problems I am running into is that the entire system has to be at least 80 psi in order to run the air locker. I'd run into this problem with either a check valve or a regulator, i think. Unless someone has another option? Perhaps an inline valve that can be remotely operated to isolate the arb/air locker system.

I'd like, if possible to be able to get the arb air locker actuated without having to wait for the whole system 10+ gallons to reach 80+ psi
 

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Your original diagram is fine.. With your drawing there is np need for a regulator.. just more crap to deal with. The check vavle will keep the 125 from entering the ARB pump and locker.... What you do need it a valve, manual or elec that can close the ARB off from the tanks so that you can just run the ARB if you want to...


Honestly.. the easiest thing to do will be to keep the systems seperate.. the ARB is so damn slow that it really wont help out your other pump.... just keep them isolated.. locker pump and tire pump.. besides if you run a ARB for more than a few minutes it will burn up, I have gone thru several....
 

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ah64id said:
Your original diagram is fine.. With your drawing there is np need for a regulator.. just more crap to deal with. The check vavle will keep the 125 from entering the ARB pump and locker.... What you do need it a valve, manual or elec that can close the ARB off from the tanks so that you can just run the ARB if you want to...


Honestly.. the easiest thing to do will be to keep the systems seperate.. the ARB is so damn slow that it really wont help out your other pump.... just keep them isolated.. locker pump and tire pump.. besides if you run a ARB for more than a few minutes it will burn up, I have gone thru several....

thats just what i was thinking. unless you grab 2 of those MVF-1050's to make it more worth your while to have them linked together its better to just keep your arb stuff seperate. maybe install a chuck on the system and make a jumper hose so that you can use it to save yourself in a situation but yeah... those arb compressors aren't good for much besides the higher pressure to push the locker. and if youre only running one of the 1050's then you can switch it on and off with a relay( no pressure switch will have an integrated relay.... at least not at a reasonable price) but i would recommend a double switch system so both a manual switch and the pressure switch have to be on to turn the system on
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rebuilt98 said:
No no your whole system should be at like 125 high pressure when full and kick on at 85 PSI that way you always have enough air to actuate the locker. But w/ the regulator you regulate down to 85 Psi so that you always get 85 Psi for the locker and if you're system is below 85 psi then you're compressors are already on but I don't you'll be airing up tires will using your locker so you'll never have to worry. something along these lines



and you can run your lines form the tank to the maifold. Basically you run the compressors to the maifold and then distribute the air from there.
It would be nice to always have atleast 85 psi, but the systems leaks. Right now I don't have check valves, so I know the air is probably leaking back out through the compressor. Even with the check valves, I doubt the I could ever get it leak proof. Basically if I'm in a situation where all of a sudden I need the air locker, I don't want to have to wait until the entire system goes from 0 to 85 psi.

ah64id said:
Your original diagram is fine.. With your drawing there is np need for a regulator.. just more crap to deal with. The check vavle will keep the 125 from entering the ARB pump and locker.... What you do need it a valve, manual or elec that can close the ARB off from the tanks so that you can just run the ARB if you want to...


Honestly.. the easiest thing to do will be to keep the systems seperate.. the ARB is so damn slow that it really wont help out your other pump.... just keep them isolated.. locker pump and tire pump.. besides if you run a ARB for more than a few minutes it will burn up, I have gone thru several....
A valve operated from the cab would be nice to isolate one system. However I havent been able to find one that I could actuate electronically, or by other means from in the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
tacotoy said:
thats just what i was thinking. unless you grab 2 of those MVF-1050's to make it more worth your while to have them linked together its better to just keep your arb stuff seperate. maybe install a chuck on the system and make a jumper hose so that you can use it to save yourself in a situation but yeah... those arb compressors aren't good for much besides the higher pressure to push the locker. and if youre only running one of the 1050's then you can switch it on and off with a relay( no pressure switch will have an integrated relay.... at least not at a reasonable price) but i would recommend a double switch system so both a manual switch and the pressure switch have to be on to turn the system on
I plan on running a seperate switch for the MV-1050, so the switch will have to be on in order to run the compressor.
 

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yeah so essentially you would have 2 switches.... the pressure switch and the other switch you are installing. but i would still keep the 2 air systems seperate
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tacotoy said:
yeah so essentially you would have 2 switches.... the pressure switch and the other switch you are installing. but i would still keep the 2 air systems seperate
no, i would really like to combine the two. I'm thinking about making my own 4air type hookup to air up all four tires at once. So once the tankes drop below 85 psi, both compressors would be on filling the system as fast as possible. I figure a 4air type setup would drop the pressure pretty quickly allowing the compressors to work at a lower psi putting out a higher cfm.

There are a bunch of differnt configurations in which I could go, I could keep the two systems separate and combine the two at the 4air system, or do something else.
 

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Rebuilt98 said:
Like I said you should have a check valve on each compressor and other than that why should the system leak? Use Teflon tape and quality fittyings and you should be good to go.
Well the ARB has an internal check vavle and there is no point in adding another as the ARB's pressure switch and solenoid are hooked up to the pump, which has a small resevior on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rebuilt98 said:
Like I said you should have a check valve on each compressor and other than that why should the system leak? Use Teflon tape and quality fittyings and you should be good to go.
I have teflon tape at very fitting, hose clams for every barbed end, and it leaks somewhere. I haven't taken the time to check and see, but it will leak from 100 psi down to 30 psi overnight. It holds okay pressure on the trail, if I air up before, it might drop to around 70-80ish by the end.
 

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tacomausmc said:
I have teflon tape at very fitting, hose clams for every barbed end, and it leaks somewhere. I haven't taken the time to check and see, but it will leak from 100 psi down to 30 psi overnight. It holds okay pressure on the trail, if I air up before, it might drop to around 70-80ish by the end.
redo your connections with pipe dope.... or the paste essentially. with the brass fittings that most setups use teflon can sometimes cause some leaks. the other thing you can try is get a soapy water solution and pressurize the system to about 20psi and then spray for leaks..... then just look for bubbles. slowly increase the pressure as it may be a high pressure leak that will only show with enough pressure on the system
 

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So I have been looking at stuff online and think I found a sweet setup.. Instead of running the tank inline I am going to place it on a T between the aft chuck and the pump. Then on that T I will place a electric valve that operates on a pressure switch. When the PSI drops below 30 it will close the valve and the pump will only have to full tires, when the PSI is above 30 the tanks are providing air to the system..

Now I just have to find a 30psi switch, or a adj switch.... (email into ISSPRO about a custom one)

This should maximize the system for airing up tires as fast as possible, and makes it fully automatic....

Here is my hitec diagram... do something like this, and keep the ARB system compleatly seperate.. you'll get quick pressure for the ARB, and have more psi in your tanks for rapid refill, and the tanks are isolated when psi drops so you only fill tires...

 
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