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Discussion Starter #1
I'm rebuilding my OBA setup in preparation for my 4.88s and ARBs. I trying to clean up the setup and make more space for my manifold for the solenoids. Any reason why I shouldn't replace the gauge on my compressor with my Viair switch? The gauge jumps too much to be useful when the compressor is on. I'll add a small gauge elsewhere. Are the spikes in pressure from the compressor cylinder going to make the switch angry? I'm sure down the line the pressure is more stable. I'm going to add a gauge on my manifold after the pressure has been regulated to 90psi.

Thanks for any input.
 

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I just removed the gauge and re taped the threads to fit the pressure switch.

 

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You might consider doing what I did and adding a storage tank to your setup.
There is unused space behind the rocker panels that works well. I made two tanks to fit the space using sch 80 PVC pipe. I got about five gallons of tank between the two of them.
The compressor fills the tanks through a filter/sediment bowl as you have now. the pressure switchs reads the air pressure there and the storage tank smooths things out..
I have air fittings on the front and rear bumpers for airing up my tires.
For an ARB you'd want to add a separate regulator and probably another filter sediment bowl that is plumbed to your locker. Set the regulator to whatever pressure makes the ARB happy and the air feeding your diff would be double filtered and dry.

BTW pulling input air for your compressor from behind the engine air filter keeps things nice and clean and makes one less thing you have to keep clean and serviced. Just drill a hole in the air box somewhere after the filter, glue in a barbed air fitting and connect a hose between the airbox and the compressor input. I think I used epoxy putty on the fitting I added to my air box.
 

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I'm rebuilding my OBA setup in preparation for my 4.88s and ARBs. I trying to clean up the setup and make more space for my manifold for the solenoids. Any reason why I shouldn't replace the gauge on my compressor with my Viair switch? The gauge jumps too much to be useful when the compressor is on. I'll add a small gauge elsewhere. Are the spikes in pressure from the compressor cylinder going to make the switch angry? I'm sure down the line the pressure is more stable. I'm going to add a gauge on my manifold after the pressure has been regulated to 90psi.
Thanks for any input.
Along with all the stuff already mentioned, that location should be fine for the switch. FWIW that compressor already has a 30a relay inside so you could save some space with one of the little tiny pressure switches.
Also, as far as plumbing lay out, the cylinder head can be rotated and bolted back on with the ports pointing in different directions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dick,
I don't have the room behind the rockers because of the stock FJC sliders I'm using. They use vertical steel rather than tubing to connect to the frame that takes up all the free space. My rear bumper is 2x4 box steel, capped, and sealed. I'm using that as a tank. I'm adding a regulator into a manifold for the ARB solenoids. After reading other mods I'm re wiring it with heavier gauge so the internal relay is going away. Since I'm really working on the compressor it's going to come out of the truck and remounted 180* in the truck so I can used Dick's advise and pull air from the stock air box. Should only be a 6 inch run.
 

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Did the same with my rear bumper but never used it. Made from 2x6 .120 tube with internal braces, tapering and some 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" worked into the mix. At 105 psi it swelled about 1/8" total, 1/16" per side. Actually better than I expected for a less than optimal pressure vessel shape.;)
 

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Well then at least you're taking advantage of some free space.
I thought of using my sliders for awhile but after calculating the volume I decided it wasn't worth it and did the rocker panel thing instead.
I got five gallons out of it which is enough to seat a bead or air up one tire. I had just enough room to fit 4" Sch 80 PVC tubing with Sch 40 end caps. Sch 80 is thick enough to drill and tap for the 5/16" compression fittings I used for the poly air line tube plumbing.

Dick,
I don't have the room behind the rockers because of the stock FJC sliders I'm using. They use vertical steel rather than tubing to connect to the frame that takes up all the free space. My rear bumper is 2x4 box steel, capped, and sealed. I'm using that as a tank. I'm adding a regulator into a manifold for the ARB solenoids. After reading other mods I'm re wiring it with heavier gauge so the internal relay is going away. Since I'm really working on the compressor it's going to come out of the truck and remounted 180* in the truck so I can used Dick's advise and pull air from the stock air box. Should only be a 6 inch run.
 

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Dick, how much PSI can the schedule 80 PVC hold? I guess if works for a potato gun....:D

Pulling air from the intake tube sounds smart. I like that idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Shit we used schedule 40 on our potato guns and never got killed. We shot them till the barrel got soft. Surprised our dumbasses are still here. Looks like max PSI in 4inch schedule 80 is 320.
 
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