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^^^ NICE DUDE! hit me up when you want to go test it out... would love to see the finished product in person

went to pismo last year with the dude that now owns your old tacoma
 

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I can take some measurements, need to get a set of calipers and some time to pull everything apart. The hard part for me is figuring out what pitch the threads are. Also TC uses an allen head bolt and it is impossible to remove without pulling the CV, so that one might have to wait cause I'm tired of tearing my front end apart and I welded all my alignment cams solid making it even more fun.
yeah get a set of calipers(hf ones work fine) and get to measuring when you get a chance and ill source you something. dont worry about thread pitch ill take care of that stuff . as for the lower, the cv shouldent have to come off. take the 2 bolts off that hold the lower uniball to the spindle and you have good access to them . i could figure out the upper with the arm i have , just need specs on the lower really . when/if your ready let me know and ill send you a few illustrations of whats needed.

also if theres anybody local thats interested ,that has a kit ,installed or not and wants upgraded hardware let me know and we will work something out
get anywhere with this by anychance? I gotta go through and prep my truck when i get some free time.

upper arm bolt is 9/16" x 5.00L

lower uniball bolt connecting the LCA to the lower uniball is a 3/4" x 4.25L socket head which uses a 5/8" allen

the 2 bolts connecting the uniball to the spindle are 16mm x 30mm flange head bolts
 

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get anywhere with this by anychance? I gotta go through and prep my truck when i get some free time.

upper arm bolt is 9/16" x 5.00L

lower uniball bolt connecting the LCA to the lower uniball is a 3/4" x 4.25L socket head which uses a 5/8" allen

the 2 bolts connecting the uniball to the spindle are 16mm x 30mm flange head bolts

no i havent had time yet . i am in utah rebuilding a race truck and ill be back around the 4th of march . ill have time to get back on it then . i also need the length from the top of the uniball misalignment spacer to where the nut touches the bottom of the arm. basically i need the shank length for the lower uniball bolt. also the distance from the top of the current bolt to the bottom of the cv . thanks for the specs and ill see what i come up with in a few weeks.

mike-
 

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first teaser shots of the new rear shocks (Thanks Jeremy at Icon) 2.5 x 16 4 Tube Zetas. Need to move the bump up a couple inches to compensate for the shorter collapsed length. Cant say enough good things about the quality of the shocks and the guys at Icon, now to go do some tuning.







Fronts are also here and waiting to go on. 2.5 2 Tube Omegas, adding some gusseting to the shock hoop before it gets installed

 

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I built one almost identical but I removed it after one offroad session at night. When the dust kicked up it acted like fog and I couldnt see very far. I had 5 redring 55w lights. Any similar experience so far??????
I havent had that problem yet but ive only gone out alone. I feel like that problem is independent of where the lights are mounted. I was thinking about getting some amber covers
 

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Discussion Starter #4,572
SIRHK100 – Since I read a post where you were calling all of us out to post updates, This is for you buddy! :saw: :welder:

Last year I tore into the front of my truck when I got the new Total Chaos boxed kit. So this spring, I decided to freshen up the other end. I debated long and hard about ditching the cantilever and just going with a bed cage, or simply just redesigning the cantilever with better geometry. I really wanted to keep the cantilever because it allows for a shit-ton of gear storage and for the most part works really good.

When I initially built and designed it (like more than 5 years ago with a couple buddies) I kind of just eyeballed it. I completed a grid on a large piece of cardboard, and then built the sub-frame, springs etc. to scale. I just moved the link mount, the cantilever pivot, and shock mount around until it looked right. I took those scale measurements and fabbed up what you see below in the top picture.

Steve from Dirt Designs (SOCALMOTO) was kind enough to analyze the motion ratio of the setup. What he found was that my kindergarten CAD design wasn't half bad, and that it really wasn't worth rebuilding. I wanted to do something new, and I really hated the way the old rockers/bellcranks looked. Steve designed some new boxed ones, and cut them out for me, and then I welded them up. I think they look way more sano.

So then the frame got fresh paint, all new bushings, heims, brake lines, and Deaver re-arched and rebuilt my F67’s (springs). After learning that the motion ratio was decent, I decided to revalve the rear bypasses. The previous setup was .020 tapered stack on both comp and rebound with no (zero) bleed screws in the piston. With both compression tubes almost all the way closed, the truck was just a tad soft on big g-outs and jump landings. After speaking at length with Steve, I decided the cheapest and easiest fix was to install a bleed screw and see what happens. SAW .020/.015 shims are hard to find by the way….

I do have to comment that the last time me and my old man did the Mojave road, I was really impressed with the Cantilever’s ability to avoid bottoming. I doubled up and stacked the rear of the truck really good towards the end of the first day, but it reacted extremely predicable (my dad didn’t even spill his yellow belly). So far the setup has been a PITA to tune, but each time I go out, it’s getting closer.

BTW. I have to comment. I met SOCALMOTO (Steve) a while ago (he works in the same city I do). He is a great fabricator and an honest, nice hardworking guy. If anyone needs some serious off-road design and engineering, hit him up. Check out Dirt Designs to see the kind of cool shit he is working on. He will give me shit for posting that :D. I know its a shameless plug, but I am saying this because I want to, not because he asked me to.


I’m stoked I had the chance to prep it to get ready for the Fall. I am already planning some epic stuff. I have another project coming in the next couple weeks. A new OE toyota radiator to get more approach angle. Ill post it when its done.












I'm going to Vegas to Reno. Anyone else going? Racing? Chasing?
 

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Nice setup!!! I've got another ride that needs some rear shock love eventually and something similar to keep the rear of it usable has crossed my mind a couple times!

And it's good to see someone else posting!!! LOL I was getting sick of seeing only our thread at the top all the time! HHAHAHAHA
 

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alrighty, i'll play the update game

new motor mounts, and beefed up the tranny mount. no more engine flopping around due to the worn out stock rubber mounts. so much better!!!




and how the truck is looking these days...

 

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Matt,

Who made the motor and tranny mounts? Do you have pics before they were installed?

Btw, my shift change is coming up and I will have weekends off for a while. You still interested in that SB trip? I never got around to going.
heck yeah i'm still interested in the trip! just let me know when you got free time

the motor mounts are from trail gear. they're solid. the tranny mount it just the stock mount beefed up to basically eliminate the rubber parts. currently nobody makes a solid tranny mount for the 3.4 auto trans. if you're a 5 spd then 4x innovations makes a tranny mount.

i've been emailing with DMZ tim and he's currently working on some engine an trans mounts for 1st gen 3.4 tacomas. he said it's still gonna be a few months because he's so backed up on other projects right now, but he assured me that they are coming.

engine mounts prior to install

 

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What if one used the 4x Innovations tranny mount with stock motor mounts? Seen this asked before, but I never saw an answer.

Does a poly trans mount with a stock rubber motor mount cause any issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #4,580
at start up and idle it's really noticeable, but driving down the road there's no extra vibration than before

the truck just feels so much more solid. so much less movement...
My only concern was that it would be annoying for a street-able truck and long distance drives to the dez. Motor and tanny mounts are the next thing on my list. My problem was with the frame mounts tearing the bottom of the stay into the frame. Not sure which route I'm going to go, but I'm glad you went guinea pig for me....

I'll give you a heads up about that trip. I'm guessing it'll be sept/nov.
 
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