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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed a Autometer electric oil pressure gauge #3327 in my 04' 2.7, last thing I need to do in install the sensor. I wanted to mount it in the same hole (eng. block) as the stock switch (doing away with the idiot light), The first thing I encountered was the angle of the hole and the size of the Autometer sensor hitting a bracket for the A/C compressor. I picked up a 45 deg. 1/8 NPT (thinking that is the size) to change the angle so the sensor would clear the A/C bracket. Now I find out the 1/8 NPT doesn't screw in. I looked on-line for any reference to this matter and came up with nothing, looked at Autometers site and found "Metric Adapters" #2269 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT or #2265 1/8" to M10x1 (I don't think the hole is 10M). At this time :confused: , I'm hair less now, any help from the experienced would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Sorry, I don't know anything about the 2.7 but the oil switch hole in my 3.4 was 3/8 if I remember right, but I do have a gauge Q? and maybe a bump will help and someone that knows will post.

I don't have a pressure gauge, but isn't the idiot as good as a gauge? You need to be looking at both?
 

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No, the idiot light isn't as good as a gauge... The idiot light comes on at a very low PSI level - low enough that if you're roaring down the road at the time ----- it's too late for your engine... At least with a gauge (and some vigilance) you can see in advance that oil pressure is dropping. With one of the more sophisticated electronic 'warning' gauges, you can set your warning point so you get an alert long before the idiotic idiot light decides to act...
 

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2Tense said:
I installed a Autometer electric oil pressure gauge #3327 in my 04' 2.7, last thing I need to do in install the sensor. I wanted to mount it in the same hole (eng. block) as the stock switch (doing away with the idiot light), The first thing I encountered was the angle of the hole and the size of the Autometer sensor hitting a bracket for the A/C compressor. I picked up a 45 deg. 1/8 NPT (thinking that is the size) to change the angle so the sensor would clear the A/C bracket. Now I find out the 1/8 NPT doesn't screw in. I looked on-line for any reference to this matter and came up with nothing, looked at Autometers site and found "Metric Adapters" #2269 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT or #2265 1/8" to M10x1 (I don't think the hole is 10M). At this time :confused: , I'm hair less now, any help from the experienced would be greatly appreciated.
What i did on mine was i removed one of the plugs next to the oil filter housing and installed the adapter from summit that metric on one side and standard on the other and it works fine. I also keep the idiot light.
 

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EnolaGaia said:
...At least with a gauge (and some vigilance) you can see in advance that oil pressure is dropping...
Ok, thats what I figured when I installed a buzzer instead of a gauge. Since the stock idiot light is set to light at 2 or 4 PSI, I used a 15 PSI switch hooked to a buzzer. I kept the stock dash (idiot) light.
 

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ZR2Steve: That sounds like a decent alternative... Where did you find a 15 PSI switch? Did you install it in parallel with the OEM idiot light sensor/ switch, or swap it out?...
 

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EnolaGaia said:
ZR2Steve: Where did you find a 15 PSI switch? Did you install it in parallel with the OEM idiot light sensor/ switch, or swap it out?...
I got a 15 PSI switch from Napa. It's just an open or closed oil pressure switch, used on many vehicles. It has a 1/4 NPT and I installed it with the OEM pressure switch. Ran a new wire along with the other wires I was pulling at the time, then wired it to Radio Shack buzzer under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK guys here's what worked for me, I picked up a Autometer #2269 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter. Wrapped the end with teflon tape, it screwed right in the same hole as the oil psi switch (I looked all over the area for a plug next to the switch and didn't see one, so the idiot light had to go). I then screwed in the 1/8" NPT 45 deg. adapter w/teflon so the Autometer sensor would clear the A/C bracket. Hooked up the wire that I ran, started up the truck, low and behold I now can read my oil psi.

Now, lets talk Tach's...
I read a nice article on CustomTaco about wiring a tach Here, worked to perfection as far as the wiring goes. The tach I installed is a Autometer #3905 which is a 8,000 rpm max. The paper work reads "4 CYL. (2 Pulse) clip the BLUE loop only", 4 Cyl. (1 Pulse) clip BROWN and BLUE". Not knowing I call Autometer up asking them what wires to cut on the back, for a 04' 2.7 Taco. The tech told me to clip both so I did, the tach works, I feel that it's not right. The truck has an auto. trans, the reading I'm getting can't be right... Normal shifting 5000 rpm?, ECT shifting past the 8000 mark?

I'll end up calling Autometer on Monday, Just hoping someone here would know a little bit about this...
 

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I am doing justthe same thing, I asked around and was refered to a import tuner shop in the Chicagoloand area (garage Kwai) (847) 259-6960
ask him for Invoice 1964 purchase date feb 8
I have yet to install it
Do you want me to get you the same pcs?
I got a lS/S line as well, holds up to NOS pressures, just fine
You probably will need to still run the Toyota factory sensor, though to keep the ECU happy
DEF POST PICS!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't call Autometer on the tach matter... The 5" Sport-Comp Monster tach looked totally stupid after I wired and mounted it. So, I picked up a Autometer 3-3/4" (#3780) 8,000 rpm max, swapped it out (the neat thing about this one is, no wire clipping, push down two little switches for a 4 cyl. and I change the bulb to amber like the rest of the gauges and dash lighting), and this tach reads the RPM's right.

next gauge to install will be a Autometer #3391 Voltmeter... I just can't wait to see what I run into next...

A few TTORA members asked for pictures, I will do so as soon as I can.
 

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In case you didn't already know... The voltmeter is the easiest of all gauges to wire up... Basically, it only needs to tap into any hot circuit.

Also... Did you use a replacement amber bulb to match your OEM lighting, or did you swap condoms on the existing bulb?...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I went to a local parts store and found replacement amber bulbs. I also have my XM set to amber/orange, at night the inside of the cab looks really cool.
 

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My 03 4X4 Taco did not come w/tach, so this is what I went through and this is the response I got from Autometer when I still had my 2003 2.7L. I went through hell trying to get that tach installed.

"Just installed tach#3708 & adapter#9117 per instructions. I went with a
certified ASE mechanic. Tach is installed on a 2003
Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4cycl. Everything was hooked-up and installed exactly
as instructions states, but tach is not
working properly. Tach is not reading proper RPM's and is very jumpy.
Also, no reading at idle. Seems to only flutter
between 0 & 1000rpm. Please help.
Thank you!


Hello.
>
> I am sorry, but the tach adapter was not installed correctly. It
> sounds like the adapter was wired in per instructions, but only to one
> coil. It needs to be wired in before all the coils. Example: if only
> wired to one coil on a 4 cylinder, you will only see one forth of the
> rpm and it will be very bouncy as you indicated. You need to locate the
> common power supply to all coils and cut it there and wire in the adpter
> at that point.
> Now, here is the other issue. There is a very good chance you may not
> need a adapter. Go to the ECU (computer) and of the 28 pin connector,
> locate pin #3 which is a light green wire with a blue stripe. Hook the
> green wire of the tachometer to this wire with no adapter.
> Thank you
> Cory
> Tech/Service

Well, after two days in the shop & $200 later, the mechinic finally hooked it up correctly. I think he acctually had to hook it up to all the coil wires leading to the cyclinders.
Hope this helps!
 
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