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I have a 2003 TRD DoubleCab 4x4. I don't do any hardcore wheeling, just some trail riding weekend warrior type stuff. I'm mainly just looking for a bit of ground clearance and the ability to run some slightly larger tires. Probably 265/75/16's on stock wheels. Also, after seeing all the sweet rides on this site, my stocker just looks plain gay!

I have done a ton of searching this week and I'm still a little undecided on my front suspension. I was almost set on the toytec OME Coil/AAL setup but I have some concerns after searching. Most people say its best to run the OME struts with the OME coils??? I'll be installing the lift myself but I've read the OME coils, 882's in my application, are a b!tch to compress. If you add the OME coils, OME stuts, and cost of a shop to assemble the coil setup it starts to get pricey. Almost as pricey as the Toytec or SAW coil-overs. In addition, I've read that if the OME coils start to sag, you have to disassemble and add the trim packers, hence, another labor charge. From What I've read coil-overs seem to pretty much just bolt in place??? But are they overkill for my application? Also, when using coilovers, wouldnt it change your front end alignment each time you adjusted them up or down?

I'm looking long term here, I tend to keep vehicles until they die! What would be the MOST trouble & hassle free lift over the long run???
 

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If you run a CO and the spring sags, you adjust it back to the same ride height, you won't change any of the original alignment specs. If you go higher or lower by .50 inch or less, the biggest change will be toe setting and that would be very minimal. As for what is the best for you, ask your wallet. If you buy Co's then you are out the cash up front. If you buy an OME kit and it never sags, you are out no additional expense. Maybe you should look into the Bil 5100 series CO and OME coils. If you run the right combo and you don't have a winch or heavy bumper, you should see very little sagging over the lifetime of the truck, if you don't wheel it hard. If you are worried about extra expense, maybe you should not mod the truck at all. Once you start with this shit, it never ends.:2cents:
 

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I ran a set of OME struts/882s for two years of moderate wheeling, daily driving and about once a month towing and had very little sag after three years.

edit: two years or three??? three is my final answer, from June-04 til now. I gotta proof read what I write...
 

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very little sag to mine and it's coming close to a year. i actually wanted a little sag because it seemed to be a bit higher than 3 in after install. the AP bumper brought it down some. truck looks level now (looked a little nose high before). this lift is just right for my needs.
 

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If you are looking long term, might as well spend the money and do coilovers. Do it right the 1st time. My :2cents: Good luck.
 

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I went through the same debate for months, CO's vs. OME. If budget is an issue, I'd keep waiting and see if you can find something used. Check the classifieds on this site, and your local craigslist. your patience will be rewarded.

I notice you are from SW Virginia, so I'm not sure what kind of wheeling you are going to get into. For me (and I assume many others who live in the Eastern US) there are very few spots to wheel legally, unless you know private land owners allowing use for wheeling.

In the end, I decided to forego the CO's for the time being. I didn't think the trails I would be riding would fully warrant the purchase of high end suspension components. In NC, there are only a few places to wheel legally. A few places where added clearance and larger tires would be of benefit. Ultimately, I decided on OME 882's (used from this site) and Alcan AAL w/ Bilstien 5125's.

I just got my rear suspension setup today, and I sat with the AAL's on my lap during my lunch break, caressing my new Bilstien shocks, sliding the shock boot up and down over the freshly lubed shock shaft. My OME's should be here tomorrow, and will be admired in a similar fashion. As you can see I am very pleased with my selection, and will post pics of the install after the long weekend.

Haha
 

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I just wonder how frequently those with COs actaully adjust them? I really don't see the advantage if you just install them and leave them at the height. I know new springs will sag, but your rear springs are not adjustable so why would you ever need to raise the front because your rear springs will sag as your fronts do. Maybe not exactly the same, but I don't think I have ever had a lift that 30,000 miles later I was wishing I could just turn a nut to raise or lower the front.

I would love to have a set of adjustable coil overs, but i can't justify the expense unless I am missing something. You could add a lot of trim packs to a set of OMEs before you would spend more on coil overs.
 

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You could add a lot of trim packs to a set of OMEs before you would spend more on coil overs.
Which requires the disassembly of the coil, which costs money unless you do it yourself....and even then, you cant keep adding them...you have to eventually get a new coil....
 

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I swapped coils out this weekend on my 85 with a hydraulic press.

Piece of cake, but if done incorrectly....can be very dangerous!
 

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BBBBOOOOIIIINNNNGGGGGG................:explode: :suicide:
 

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Which requires the disassembly of the coil, which costs money unless you do it yourself....and even then, you cant keep adding them...you have to eventually get a new coil....
I am asking because I don't have coil overs, but do they really sag that much? My thinking is that even if your coil overs sag and you crank them up, you are still running a weak spring that is more compressed and has less travel. Cranking them up doesn't sound like a good reason to spend more to get them. Won't the springs on the coil over sag the same as OMEs? Eventually you get to a point that you have to replace that spring as well. For the price, I think you can get two sets of OMEs for what you would spend on 1 set of coil overs. I know that would require installing twice, but you should be able to get a shop to swap your springs for $20. Maybe it is just me, but I haven't worn out a set of springs that I wanted to replace with the same thing. I guess I use that as motivation to try something else or go in a different direction.
 

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I've got the 882's I've loaded my truck and driven across the country at 5400 pounds and wheeled it pretty hard. Haven't had a complaint about the front yet. I blew both rear OME shocks on stock springs but they got warrantied. I'd say go with the OME lift if you don't plan on the winch bumper and winch. If you change your mind later well that's called living and learning but you're still not going to be out too much money anyways.
 

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I have adjusted my CO's twice. Once to back off to 2.5 inches of lift and once for settling and drivers side extra weight. It wasn't a deal breaker. Do what your wallet will allow.
 

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I just wonder how frequently those with COs actaully adjust them? I really don't see the advantage if you just install them and leave them at the height. I know new springs will sag, but your rear springs are not adjustable so why would you ever need to raise the front because your rear springs will sag as your fronts do. Maybe not exactly the same, but I don't think I have ever had a lift that 30,000 miles later I was wishing I could just turn a nut to raise or lower the front.

I would love to have a set of adjustable coil overs, but i can't justify the expense unless I am missing something. You could add a lot of trim packs to a set of OMEs before you would spend more on coil overs.
The biggest advantage I see with CO's is that (most) are re-buildable, and replacement parts can be had fairly easy. There's no way around it, all springs will eventually sag over time, some faster than others. CO's should cost you less in the long haul. I would rather spend an afternoon with $25 in shock oil and a $25 seal kit then replace struts. :2cents:
 

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I
I'm looking long term here, I tend to keep vehicles until they die! What would be the MOST trouble & hassle free lift over the long run???
then keep it stock.

Aftermarket parts will never last as long as OE parts.
but then the question of how long is 'long-term'? comes up ;)

both systems have their pros and cons.

OME makes great stuff for what you describe but they will wear out like any shock or spring and need replacement.
Adjustable/rebuildable COs are 3x the price but you can rebuild them or send them out for rebuild...around $100/pr. My SAWs lasted about 2yrs between rebuilds. OME shocks will last quite a bit longer than that but if you really hammer them....well...;)

shop around for places to assemble your coil/shocks...shouldn't cost you more than $40/ corner and some will do it for a lot less than that. Prices posted some years back ranged from $20-80/pr

If you are planning on adding a lot of armor, aftermarket bumper, or winch in the near future go directly to the adjustables with at least a 650# coil.

For just a simple syspension system change with mild lift the OME complete (f/r) kit is awesome and costs under $1k. try to keep your lift to under 2" for fewer issues down the road.
 

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The SAW 2.0's are a nice compromise between the OME and the $$$ 2.5" shocks. OME front set-up will cost you $400+ all said-and-done. SAW's can be had for $670. The difference is the flexibility dealing with rig setup (winch, bumper, skid, canoe, etc.). Both will eventually wear out, but the OME's will be junk and the SAW's can be rebuilt. Then the coilovers become cheaper.
The OME suspension is a great replacement to stock, but it doesn't give you the option to keep upgrading your truck while maintaining the desired lift.
 

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The SAW 2.0's are a nice compromise between the OME and the $$$ 2.5" shocks. OME front set-up will cost you $400+ all said-and-done. SAW's can be had for $670. The difference is the flexibility dealing with rig setup (winch, bumper, skid, canoe, etc.). Both will eventually wear out, but the OME's will be junk and the SAW's can be rebuilt. Then the coilovers become cheaper.
The OME suspension is a great replacement to stock, but it doesn't give you the option to keep upgrading your truck while maintaining the desired lift.
just replacing the front or rear suspension is at best a waste of time and at worst, dangerous. So, you really should figure cost of replacing both front and rear at the same time.

but, I agree that in the greater scheme of things the "cheaper" way to go for the front is 2.0 SAWs since we all know that once you start modding these money pits you can't stop ;)
 
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