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whats your opinion on airraid tb spacers, do they work, and are they worth it?
 

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hemidog said:
whats your opinion on airraid tb spacers, do they work, and are they worth it?
They do nothing for the 3.4LTR engine. Save you money, buy an exhaust system or a Supercharger. (exhaust wont improve performance much but at least the truck will sound better) Or mod your airbox for around $10 and put the other $65 in your kids college fund. :xdevil:

Tim
 

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hemidog said:
whats your opinion on airraid tb spacers, do they work, and are they worth it?
our trucks have direct port fuel injection...everything is already mixed as good as its going to be, so the spacers dont do anything
 

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Before I ever heard of these Tacoma forums, I installed an araid spacer on my truck in the quest for a few more mpg & ponies. I really didnt notice much of a difference in anything. I originally bought it thinking it would be similar to the way a carb spacer works, but its not. Yet its still on my truck. Save your money.
 

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tbplus10 said:
dsumners: where at in Dallas? Have'nt seen ya on the Texas board or at a meeting yet.

Tim

I'm in Wylie.

Newbie, just starting to get around. Also, getting ready to gear up for the AX season with my Boxster.
 

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its just for looks and sound, you can here it hissing at certain points of acceleration, if i had to do it all over again i would still get one.......
 

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I had one for a short time. I gained about 1 mpg after installing it. I got annoyed with the hissing sound and didn't notice any power increases whatsoever. I will say however that I did drop 1 mpg when I took it off and got rid of it. Still, the hissing wasn't worth the 1 mpg that it got me.
 

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I dynoed my 2002 stock 4runner. 127 rwhp. installed a helix throttlebody spacer and it dynoed 145. it does have the hissing noise but I also got 20 mpg. well worth the money.
 

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firemantodd said:
I dynoed my 2002 stock 4runner. 127 rwhp. installed a helix throttlebody spacer and it dynoed 145. it does have the hissing noise but I also got 20 mpg. well worth the money.
Your truck should have dyno'd at 145 RWHP stock anyway. I am sure your first dyno run was flawed for some reason. Gadget has posted that a friend of his on a bet dyno'd before and after the spacer install and actually lost HP with the spacer in.

Dave
 

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Not that I'm against Gadgets tests nor am I advacating the throttle body spacer, but I do notice that many people consider his website the gospel on all mods and that everyone's vehicle will do EXACTLY what his did with these various mods. It just isn't the case at all. He does have a 4Runner and not a Tacoma (and yes I know they have the same engine). Also, every dyno run is going to be slightly off from the last one. There are simply too many variables.

I did take a look at Gadget's dyno runs when he compared the K&N to the deck plate mod. For almost the entire range, the K&N actually had higher HP than the deck plate. Only at the peak was the deck plate producing more HP. I would rather have the HP over the entire range instead of just at WOT.

Just my $.02
 

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03trdblack said:
I did take a look at Gadget's dyno runs when he compared the K&N to the deck plate mod. For almost the entire range, the K&N actually had higher HP than the deck plate. Only at the peak was the deck plate producing more HP. I would rather have the HP over the entire range instead of just at WOT.

Just my $.02
I hear what your saying about not all trucks reacting the same way Gadget's did. Then again, what site has better info and test data than his? If you are new to modding the 3.4 like I used to be then how and where should I turn to start learning? Not arguing with you but I used that site as a point of reference when doing a lot of my mods. No, your right, my truck did not dyno out with the same results all the time as his. I did do my own test of the deck plate mod and FIPK and got basically the same results as he did. I had the deck plate and the elbow removed however. I originally had only the elbow mod but just for kicks on one of my dyno runs, I left the top to the airbox open and picked up another 3 HP. I know thats not much but it made up my mind about doing the deck plate also.
I guess you must have a larger monitor or better eyes than I do because I don't see that the FIPK in Gadget's dyno test developed more HP at any point in the run. IMHO

Dave
 

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03trdblack said:
Not that I'm against Gadgets tests nor am I advacating the throttle body spacer, but I do notice that many people consider his website the gospel on all mods and that everyone's vehicle will do EXACTLY what his did with these various mods. It just isn't the case at all. He does have a 4Runner and not a Tacoma (and yes I know they have the same engine). Also, every dyno run is going to be slightly off from the last one. There are simply too many variables.

I did take a look at Gadget's dyno runs when he compared the K&N to the deck plate mod. For almost the entire range, the K&N actually had higher HP than the deck plate. Only at the peak was the deck plate producing more HP. I would rather have the HP over the entire range instead of just at WOT.

Just my $.02
Im with you on that.....I believe that the "test" FIPK being used was an older style as well. I have done back to back tests with my deckplated, stock box with a K&N drop in, vs my FIPK & went back to using my FIPK. No I did not use a dyno, but I was more concerned with usable hp & increased mpg than peak hp.

Now that makes $.04....

:xbeer1:
 

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The main problem with most aftermarket intakes is that they pull air directly out of the engine compartment. This air is always going to be warmer than the outside ambient air temp. As most of you know, the warmer the air, the less fuel you'll be able to add to each cylinder to acheive the proper stoichiometric air/fuel mix, and therefore you'll have less available horsepower. Another problem with pulling air out of the engine compartment is that the temperature varies significantly from being quite hot when you're idling at a stop to much cooler cruising down the highway. Although your MAF sensor also has a thermometer to measure the incoming air temp, it seems like it responds slower than it needs to when you have extreme temperature variances over a short period of time such as when you accelerate quickly from a stop. Pulling cool air out of the fender or a true "cold air" intake seems to produce the most horsepower and allows the ECU to calculate a much more consistent and accurate air/fuel mix. I'm curious if anyone else has found the same...

-Scott
 

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Bitch-slap me and call me stupid, but wouldn't the Toyota engineers have designed the stock throttle body with the optimal "depth"?
 

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97TacoDude said:
Bitch-slap me and call me stupid, but wouldn't the Toyota engineers have designed the stock throttle body with the optimal "depth"?
Yeah, but these spacers they're talking about have super-special :rolleyes: fins and shit inside to help mix the fuel better I guess. Like mentioned above, this is highly unlikely to do anything except make fancy noises. But I guess for the person who wants special noises without a turbo or supercharger, this has got to be the best way to go.
 

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PWScottIV said:
Yeah, but these spacers they're talking about have super-special :rolleyes: fins and shit inside to help mix the fuel better I guess. Like mentioned above, this is highly unlikely to do anything except make fancy noises. But I guess for the person who wants special noises without a turbo or supercharger, this has got to be the best way to go.
Unless someone comes up with a 7th injector for non S/C motors, we have no fuel in the airstream to mix any better. IMHO, you should pay the dough to have your ports flow matched to your intakes, and leave the intakes a little rough, and polish the exhausts. I know... you are gonna cry why? Because, the rougher intake ports tumble the air coming in. The flow matching guarantees the maximum air flow possible. And, the polished exhausts guarantee less deposits and optimal scavenging. This will cost you a wee bit more than that $60 miracle air spacer. :xdevil:
 
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