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Discussion Starter #1
Is the pinion seal something that can easly be replaced? Or does the 3rd have to be pulled and reset up? I just noticed today mine's leaking pretty bad. I just had gears installed about 6 months ago.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!

So I shouldn't have to remove the front bearing and all of that other stuff right? Just remove the front seal and replace.

Mike
 

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Yup

Edit - And since you aren't messing with the bearings, the only torque spec you are really worried about is the total preload. Most likely that will just be torquing the nut back down to where it was at originally and re-staking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK sounds easy enough. What is an easy way to figure out what that preload originaly is/was?

Thanks for your help,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What about the crush sleeve that the trd rear ends use, I was under the impresion that they were a one time deal. Will it be ok to remove the load of the pinion bolt and then reapply it? Sorry for my question's here, this is my first gears related issue.

Mike
 

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Looks like to me you'll need to go deeper and install a new crush sleave or "bearing spacer". Otherwise it wont pre-load the pinion correctly when you torque the lock nut back on.
 

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Looks like to me you'll need to go deeper and install a new crush sleave or "bearing spacer". Otherwise it wont pre-load the pinion correctly when you torque the lock nut back on.
No, that isn't necessary. You just skip the whole part about setting the initial preload. Thats already done. You just need to retorque the pinion nut to set the total preload. Damn it, where is Zuk when you need him. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, that isn't necessary. You just skip the whole part about setting the initial preload. Thats already done. You just need to retorque the pinion nut to set the total preload. Damn it, where is Zuk when you need him. :p
I guess that is what I need to figure out then, what is the torque setting need to be, or how do I find out what it is now?

Thanks for the help!
Mike
 

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I guess that is what I need to figure out then, what is the torque setting need to be, or how do I find out what it is now?

Thanks for the help!
Mike
If I was doing it....just a simple seal replacement...I would note how "free" the flange turns(by hand)....loosen up the pinion nut(it has a dimple/dent that lines up with the slot in the pinion shaft so no need to mark the nut)...replace the seal....add red loctite and tighten the nut 'til the dent in the nut is back on spot with the groove in the pinion shaft. I would probably turn it another 1/32 or 1/16th of a turn tighter and note the increase in the pinion drag feel....not too easy but not too tight. I would use locktite and/or re-stake it. I would never... ever... use a torque wrench on the nut that has a crush sleeve behind it to tighten it to some "spec crap" in a book.
This simple method works for a seal that's leaking due to a worn out seal....if the issue is more serious like a very loose pinion flange and the resultant hammered pinion bearings then a full teardown is needed at that point.
Hope that helps a little. ZUK:xbeer3:
 

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I guess that is what I need to figure out then, what is the torque setting need to be, or how do I find out what it is now?

Thanks for the help!
Mike
Just to explain a couple points....obviously, we can't get an accurate number for pinion pre-load with the axles and case still in the carrier. But, at least we can turn the flange 1/8th inch back and forth to get some sort of feel.
The reason we don't use a 200 ft/lb torque wrench to tighten the big nut to some "recommended value" (I've heard numbers like 90 ft/lb) is because we don't know how heavy duty the crush sleeve is or if it has collapsed on us. Fortunately, we can still turn the flange 1/8" or so to feel that slight drag. As Showstop pointed out, just get the dent lined up as before.....but I bet most pinions are running loose so a little extra tightness is probably a good thing so another 1/16th or so should help with re-newing some pre-load. Lots of red Loctite.
 

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Everything I've read seems to agree that the crush sleeve sets the pinion bearing preload at some value when setup, but in a very short time the preload goes to 0 anyway.

Or yank it out and put a solid spacer in it and never worry about it again ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
If I was doing it....just a simple seal replacement...I would note how "free" the flange turns(by hand)....loosen up the pinion nut(it has a dimple/dent that lines up with the slot in the pinion shaft so no need to mark the nut)...replace the seal....add red loctite and tighten the nut 'til the dent in the nut is back on spot with the groove in the pinion shaft. I would probably turn it another 1/32 or 1/16th of a turn tighter and note the increase in the pinion drag feel....not too easy but not too tight. I would use locktite and/or re-stake it. I would never... ever... use a torque wrench on the nut that has a crush sleeve behind it to tighten it to some "spec crap" in a book.
This simple method works for a seal that's leaking due to a worn out seal....if the issue is more serious like a very loose pinion flange and the resultant hammered pinion bearings then a full teardown is needed at that point.
Hope that helps a little. ZUK:xbeer3:
Just to explain a couple points....obviously, we can't get an accurate number for pinion pre-load with the axles and case still in the carrier. But, at least we can turn the flange 1/8th inch back and forth to get some sort of feel.
The reason we don't use a 200 ft/lb torque wrench to tighten the big nut to some "recommended value" (I've heard numbers like 90 ft/lb) is because we don't know how heavy duty the crush sleeve is or if it has collapsed on us. Fortunately, we can still turn the flange 1/8" or so to feel that slight drag. As Showstop pointed out, just get the dent lined up as before.....but I bet most pinions are running loose so a little extra tightness is probably a good thing so another 1/16th or so should help with re-newing some pre-load. Lots of red Loctite.
AWESOME! Good info, thanks a ton! I'm going to go down to the place that set my gears up today and see what they say first. I'm hoping they will take care of it for me. But if I end up doing it then this will definitely help me out. I'm hoping it is just a cheap seal that came with my master install kits, I'm worrying that there is something more that could cause this to happen. The gears have been in for 9 month and about 20K miles, no noise, clean oil, no metal on the drain plug as of last week. I would think if I was going to have problems though, I would have had them by now, but we'll see. I'll keep you guys updated!

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took the truck down the driveline shop today and they installed a new seal and checked everything out. Everything seems OK now, no leaks on the way home. I feel better letting them do it since they originally set up the rearend, and it only cost me about 65 bucks, so I think I did ok.

Thank you for all your reply's though, this was some good info!

Mike
 
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