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:p Ok, i have done a lot of research on the drop bracket lifts like the fabtech 6" and stuff. Then someone reccomeded i go with a 3" coil over and then 3" leafs in the back. Then, go with a 2-3 inch body and have less money in the project. I know nothing about coilovers...besides its a lift. I understand how the fabtech drop bracket lift works with the spindles and stuff...i just dont understand how a shock lifts the who truck 3". Also, i understand on the truck i am getting (2001-2004 body style) that coilovers go up front and then the AAL's lift the rear. PLEASE EXPLAIN THE WAY JUST A 3" COILOVER RAISES THE WHOLE FRONT END!

I am a complete noob when it comes to actually gettin my hands greecy! I have almost all the tools imagineable...as dad is a gear head. Now, i do that that with the fact in mind that he doesnt wanna help me with any of my projects for my taco. He has the money to have someone else do it for him. :mad: So with that being said, could i do the coil overs and AAL's myself?
 

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The new coilover is approx 3" longer than the stock coilovers. If you go look at the front suspension of the truck, it should all make sense. The coilover is fixed to the truck frame at the top, and the bottem is connected to the wheel. When you put the new coilover in, it essentially pushed the wheel 3" lower than it was before. Im not sure thats clear to anyone but myself, but I hope its a start..
 

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jessevic said:
The new coilover is approx 3" longer than the stock coilovers. If you go look at the front suspension of the truck, it should all make sense. The coilover is fixed to the truck frame at the top, and the bottem is connected to the wheel. When you put the new coilover in, it essentially pushed the wheel 3" lower than it was before. Im not sure thats clear to anyone but myself, but I hope its a start..
Yer explaining it right...

You have your shock bucket... and your lower control arm that the shock and coil is attached to... when you are cranking up yer stuff... you are in a sense pushing the bucket up (which is attached to yer frame) and gettn' yer desired lift...

does that make any sense?? :confused:
 

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As for what kind of coilovers you want just decide how much you want to spend. Here are a few brands to research. Donahoe, Fabtech, Swayaway. Each of these are good but it just depends how you will wheel your truck. Start reading. :D
 

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jessevic said:
The new coilover is approx 3" longer than the stock coilovers. If you go look at the front suspension of the truck, it should all make sense. The coilover is fixed to the truck frame at the top, and the bottem is connected to the wheel. When you put the new coilover in, it essentially pushed the wheel 3" lower than it was before. Im not sure thats clear to anyone but myself, but I hope its a start..
this is totally incorrect. the new coilover is NOT 3" longer than the stock coilover.

look at the picture below. the DR CO is about 1/2" longer than the stock CO:



note that the DR CO pictured above is set for about 2" of lift. now, you are asking, "how the hell does the new CO 'lift' the truck then"? well, let me tell you how.

the front end of your tacoma has about 8" of suspension travel (the amount that the front wheel can move vertically, top to bottom). the stock suspension is set up (i.e. the coil spring height and stiffness) such that the wheel (under static conditions) is at about the midpoint of the travel. so there is roughly 4" of up travel and 4" of down travel.

when you install *only* CO's, the travel does not change; it can't because the travel is set by the suspension geometry (UCA shape, LCA shape, and the distance between them). so you can't simply install a longer CO. accordingly, aftermarket CO's are approximately the same length as the stock CO.

however, the wheel no longer sits at the midpoint of the travel due to the increased spring preload and stiffness of the CO. that is, the truck sits "higher" on the same suspension geometry. however, this does not come for free. you trade off down travel for the increased ride height. in other words, under static conditions and with the CO set for 2" of lift, the wheel sits where it has about 6" of up travel and 2" of down travel. in addition, that 6" of up travel is somewhat misleading because by the time you get to 5" you are needing a crapload of pressure (i.e., weight on the wheel) to get the last 1" -- making that last 1" somewhat unusable

this is why aftermarket UCA's exist, which can change the front suspension geometry somewhat to allow for more front wheel travel. but it's not a lot, perhaps 1" more or so.

jim aka the wrooster
 

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Muddin taco2131 said:
So with that being said, could i do the coil overs and AAL's myself?
absolutely.

i and many, many others have done the exact thing you are thinking of without trouble. in my case i installed a Demello "Stage 1" kit, which consists of a pair of Donahoe CO's, a pair of Bilstein shocks, a pair of Deaver 3 leaf AAL's, and longer stainless brake line.

in terms of time, if you know what you are doing and have some help, you can do it all in a day. to be safe, since this is your first suspension install, i would start on a saturday morning and expect to do some finishing on sunday (perhaps installing a BPV relocation bracket and/or bleeding the brakes). this is of course if you have a regular job to go to on the weekdays.

follow the tips in the following thread:
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51131

get everything you need ahead of time, and that will make things go easier when you do the install. one tip: start spraying PB Blaster on the suspension bolts about a week before you actually want to do the work.

jim aka the wrooster
 

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don't let the two day thing scare you..........after doing it once or twice you could do it in a few hours.........now we should recommend saving your money and do it all right the first time..not that co's won't be right for you........but aal's aren't any good period.they'll just break
IMO they are to short and help the premature S factor.


why not bet the hell out of the stock shit first while you contemplate what you're gonna do..............I wish I hadn't been in such a hurry to get a lift......


Someone here say's it best ... It's expensive to do it right the first time...................I'll add to that ........not as expensive as doing it X amount of times prior to doing it right
 

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Discussion Starter #9
don't let the two day thing scare you..........after doing it once or twice you could do it in a few hours.........now we should recommend saving your money and do it all right the first time..not that co's won't be right for you........but aal's aren't any good period.they'll just break
IMO they are to short and help the premature S factor.


why not bet the hell out of the stock shit first while you contemplate what you're gonna do..............I wish I hadn't been in such a hurry to get a lift......


Someone here say's it best ... It's expensive to do it right the first time...................I'll add to that ........not as expensive as doing it X amount of times prior to doing it right
whoa this is old
 

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Thanks for this great explination for us Newbs...!:D

I have one more Newb question.

Is the setting of the new coil overs "Linear?" Meaning if I set the collar so two inches of threads are exposed and compressed therefore 2" of lift? So if I got some coil overs and I only wanted 1" inch of lift I'd move the colar up so less threads are exposed or 1" of threads? Or is this not really a linear thing and there is really no guessing where to set the collar before the coils are installed?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for this great explination for us Newbs...!:D

I have one more Newb question.

Is the setting of the new coil overs "Linear?" Meaning if I set the collar so two inches of threads are exposed and compressed therefore 2" of lift? So if I got some coil overs and I only wanted 1" inch of lift I'd move the colar up so less threads are exposed or 1" of threads? Or is this not really a linear thing and there is really no guessing where to set the collar before the coils are installed?

Thanks!
No, it's not linear. As you adjust the collar, it exerts more load on the spring, basically compressing it. This causes the CO to extend. The hoes come set at approximately 2.0 inches of lift. After that, 4 turns of the adjuster equals approximately .50 inch of lift. This is not nessesarily the correct formula if you add additional weight to the truck IE: bumper and winch. You will have to play around to get the correct ride height for your vehicle. Start by taking the stock height measurement from the frame to the ground, install the kit, drive around to settle the suspension, then re-check the numbers. Do all of this with the stock tire combo on the truck, that way you won't have to re-calculate the dimension to reflect additional tire diameter. If you are happy with the amount of lift, leave it alone. If you want more lift, jack the truck up so that the front tires are off the ground, loosen the collar set screw and rotate the collar clockwise to increase the lift. Take note of where you start IE: location of the set screw, that way you will have a good idea of the correct number of turns.
 

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this is totally incorrect. the new coilover is NOT 3" longer than the stock coilover.

note that the DR CO pictured above is set for about 2" of lift. now, you are asking, "how the hell does the new CO 'lift' the truck then"? well, let me tell you how.

when you install *only* CO's, the travel does not change; it can't because the travel is set by the suspension geometry (UCA shape, LCA shape, and the distance between them).

this is why aftermarket UCA's exist, which can change the front suspension geometry somewhat to allow for more front wheel travel. but it's not a lot, perhaps 1" more or so.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Wrooster: most of your info was correct, however, keep in mind the following: The DR CO pictured is set at 2.0 lift. This doesn't matter, due to the fact that the CO pictured is at full extension.
Statement #2 Travel is not completely set by suspension geometry. CO length can and will effect travel. How much of that travel is useable and does not negatively effect geometry is debatable. Shape of components has little to do with travel, dimensions from pivot points to spindle and component interference issues dictate travel. Travel is also designed as a compromise between geometry, CV angularity tolerances, drive axle length, tire wear, ride quality and handling, bumpsteer, tire scuff etc.. So you are partially correct, just need more info so he doesn't get confused.
Statement#3 Also partially correct. Aftermarket UCA's do change the geometry, but this change is intended to restore caster and alleviate interferance issues. The side effect and benefit is a small amount of additional droop (with longer CO's installed) without component interference issues. Hope this info helps.:)
 

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PS. Also want to make another point. When you put a spacer under the top plate of any CO, you numerically increase the amount of droop. This is due to the CO having the same amount of built in stroke. Whether you you can use that additonal droop is dependant on your suspension components, CV angles, geometry and interference issues. I can personally tell you that this droop is attainable on the 05-07 by changing the UCA to eliminate interference and to correct alignment specs.
 

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This is all great info!
I will be sure to follow everyones recommendations as that is what I've read other places on this forum as well. Will set and measure and re-adjust until I get what I want in lift. Still have stock tires so that's not an issue won't be buying new tires for a while due to all funds have gone to rear springs and now coil overs.
Thanks!
 

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This collar set screw, do only some adjustable lift CO have them? As I see nothing that fits this description on my allpros.
 

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This collar set screw, do only some adjustable lift CO have them? As I see nothing that fits this description on my allpros.
Not all CO's have a set screw, some have a locking collar above the pre-load collar. My hoes have a set screw, don't know about the allpros.
 
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