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^ yup! maybe you can find the whole assembly and just bolt it right up. Just make sure the gearing is the same if you do that. Good Luck!
 

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That's a good attitude to have. Laugh about it, I sure would (am). From what I can see, I'd say you should just consider yourself lucky that it ran for you as long as it has in that condition. Do what the others said, go to a pick-a-part and snag an entire axle. If you're interested in using it off road any, maybe even swap it for an axle with an e-locker (assuming you don't have one - grab the wiring and dash switch while you're at the salvage yard).

It's not that hard to replace a rear axle if you can get a little help, and it'll help you learn some more about your truck. Maybe someone in your area will lend a hand and sort of teach you a little bit about how everything goes together and operates while you wrench and they watch with a cold one in-hand (or maybe this time of year, a hot one). You can swap axles in a day.
 

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HOLY RUSTED :xmoon:


ok, all you guys that said he was smokin crack cause a toy diff couldnt leak there, give him a dollar



apparently this truck had a sharp scrape on something at the dealer or on its way to the dealer or on the way home from the dealer to start such rust.

have you had the truck since new??
 

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well it was a long run. 34 posts before the sarcasm kicked in. lol I guess i gotta laugh about my truck instead of letting it get to me and worrying about it. I gotta do what i gotta do.
there is a armor plate sold that welds over alot of that, but any welding shop should be able to plate that

i would pull it out of the truck strip it down to bare housing grind all the rust off, then take it to a competent welder and have him plate it
 

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Discussion Starter #45
That is most likely what is going to get done. The truck is getting taken apart now as we speak, the rear is going down to bare housing. if it cant be plated, then I just need to find another housing to swap my stuff into. something must have been wrong with the material of the housing since the rest of the truck has no body rust and very little surface rust on the frame but nothing near serious.
 

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I had a similar leak in my 1997 4Runner. If you clean the housing with degreaser, you will probably find the actual leak is a tiny pinhole--despite the widespread surface rust.

I made a "temporary" fix 6 months ago with JB weld. It is still going strong.. Before dropping huge money on a fix, you might go this route. I did an initial surface cleaning with degreaser and a brass brush, then a final cleaning with spay parts cleaner. I would remove any surface rust--but don't be too aggressive or you may create more problems. After cleaning, I did two separate JB Weld applications, then after a few days painted the entire rear of the housing with POR to try and stave off future problems. Total cost less than $30.

According to my mechanic neighbor, this is not a rare problem here in the rust belt. On 4Runners, it particularly occurs where the e-brake cable guide is spot welded to the housing.

VT
 

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I started working on mine today. My differential case has a leak that is hidden directly under the spring aligner that is welded to the differential case (OEM). I just cut the bottom of the spring aligner out today and cleaned up all the rust. From the inside of the case when I have the passenger side axle removed (aside from the heat marks from the factory welding) there was a faint brown rust spot that I spotted with an extendable mirror and flashlight. I was able to get a tiny probe to poke through it without much force at all. This tiny hole caused my entire leaf spring to become saturated in diff fluid. It was NOT (I repeat) was NOT coming from the seal, although I will be replacing that due to the extensive work I currently have under weigh on the diff case. My plan is to braze the hole and re-fabricate the bottom of the alignment plate from a piece of 1/4" mild steel. I'll chamfer the sides and weld it back in place. I have all the tools, so why not?!?
 

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Come on man, you can't be serious. You want us to believe that you believe rust is causing your rear differential to leak.

Worst case scenario, you are that stupid and I have to tell you that you have a bad seal that needs replaced and that the surface rust that you are seeing is harmless. Sorry, but I have turkey poisoning and some wicked heartburn going on at the moment.

Post a pic and if I'm still alive I'll even tell ya which seal has shit to bed on ya.

I must be stupid...

 

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That axle is toast. What salt have you been in?
Axle is fine... I live in PA, they brine the roads every time a snowflake shows up in the weather forecast. The diff case had a bunch of flake on it, but I slammed the entire thing with a hammer after It was all cleaned off to make sure it wouldn't rust through immediately after I'm done painting it! I'll be cutting the other spring mount off to inspect and repair as necessary.
 

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Looks brutal but sounds like you've got it. Worst case is you do PA a favor and oil the asphalt.
I'd say screw paint unless you're sandblasting, instead use T9 by Boeing, it's the shiznit to penetrate all the nooks and crannies and somehow bonds to rusty metal. It was designed for aircraft rust. I've used it for years, one or two spray cans would do the axle.
 

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Looks brutal but sounds like you've got it. Worst case is you do PA a favor and oil the asphalt.
I'd say screw paint unless you're sandblasting, instead use T9 by Boeing, it's the shiznit to penetrate all the nooks and crannies and somehow bonds to rusty metal. It was designed for aircraft rust. I've used it for years, one or two spray cans would do the axle.
And all the fish love oil! It gives them the opportunity to reminisce with their 180 million y/o ancestors! I'll make sure it doesn't leak any time soon. Thanks, I've never heard of it. Where do you get yours from? I'm not sure I've seen T9 spray at any of my local distributors. I'm going to stick with the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Plus for now. I already spent 40 doll hairs on the stuff... I've seen some videos on it & I'm impressed with the results. I've linked a few below. The formula I have is the "Plus" version, which is supposed to be more resilient than the one shown in Godspeed's videos.

 
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