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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, i have heard of the rule to disconnect the battery if welding to the truck, but i welded a bunch without doing it and nothing ever happened and finally something did happed and i need your guys help. Its an 01 ext. cab 2.7 automatic

Ok so here are the problems ive noticed so far. First it was a blown ignition fuse, put a new one in and the truck started. Then, i would put my foot on the brake and try to put the truck in reverse or any gear for that matter and it will not let me. I finally realized i could pop that little plastic peice off and push the little white button down and bypass the shifter to put it into any gear, and that is the only way i can drive my truck now. Also, the dinger that dings when the door is open should only ding with the keys on ACC or ON with the door open, well now after all this it dings when the motor is running and the door is open. And the last thing ive noticed, if my headlights are on and i turn the truck off, they stay on and when i open the door they automatically turn off. Now they will not do that, it always stay on.

Someone please tell me what the hell is wrong, ive checked all fuses and everything looks good. I need to be able to put it in gear without using the bypass button thing and i need the truck back to normal! Thanks, Dave
 

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Your not gonna like this. :( You don't have 1 problem you got lots of them. Sounds like you got the truck "hot" enough so that any pieces of metal that are the right distance together started an arc, like the headlight relay, the door chime etc. I had a friend (now dead) who owned a welding shop for 35 years, he once told me a story about doing a bunch of welding on an old Case loader in his early years and when he was done it wouldn't run. Turned out that all of the main bearings were just a little loose and they had all started an arc and welded them selfs together.
 

· The Satanic Panic
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1 rule about welding on trucks, disconnect both leads to the battery regardless of whatever type of welding ur doing PERIOD!!! i hope u didnt screw up ur ECU
 

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I had all kinds of electrical problems, too, and I just found out what it was las night. My wiring harness had one wire get really hot, burn all the insulation off, and burnt into a bunch of other wires, creating about 10 shorts. replaced the burnt wire, taped all the other up, and my truck works like its supossed to again.
Mine was only messed up from the fuse box to the hole in the floor under the seat, pulled back the carpet, and there it was, plain as day.
BTW, my carpet was burnt, and all the plastic was melted, I'd say my truck was dangerously close to burning to death.

--Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was a millermatic 175. To the guy that said trade it in, you didn't contribute whatsoever so next time just dont speak. Thanks for all the other replies i have a bit more to start with now. Yeah it sucks, about 70 feet in tubing was welded for my bedcage with my battery always connected and now i just started my cab cage and i get this! It sucks but from now on i am definitely sure to disconnect both leads.

So i should check into my main harness and look for burnt wires and such?
 

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PreRunnerTaco said:
It was a millermatic 175. To the guy that said trade it in, you didn't contribute whatsoever so next time just dont speak. Thanks for all the other replies i have a bit more to start with now. Yeah it sucks, about 70 feet in tubing was welded for my bedcage with my battery always connected and now i just started my cab cage and i get this! It sucks but from now on i am definitely sure to disconnect both leads.

So i should check into my main harness and look for burnt wires and such?
It's a possibility. From the fuse box it runs under the carpet, through a grommet, down to the frame, then it follows the frame rail to the rear. Also from the under the hood fuse box to all you engine components. Can't hurt to check.

--Scott
 

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PreRunnerTaco said:
It was a millermatic 175. To the guy that said trade it in, you didn't contribute whatsoever so next time just dont speak. Thanks for all the other replies i have a bit more to start with now. Yeah it sucks, about 70 feet in tubing was welded for my bedcage with my battery always connected and now i just started my cab cage and i get this! It sucks but from now on i am definitely sure to disconnect both leads.

So i should check into my main harness and look for burnt wires and such?
First off what did you weld? What were you doing? I have welded tons of stuff in my truck (im caged) and i have NEVER disconnected teh battery, heres teh main problem alot of people dont realize, you have to ground to the ITEM your welding, ive seen ppl ground to exhuast tube then weld to the frame thats a NO No but people do it away, just like when im welding ot the cage im grounded to teh cage, when im welding to the cab im grounding it to the cab.. ive never had a problem yet.. And ive done TONS of work on my truck this way.

also ive been around tons of other trucks that have also been welded up teh same way without issues...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was doing the tube that runs across the roof down the pillar through the dash and to the frame. I was welding it to the frame and i was grounded to the cage. Like i said, never had a problem before until this and now it sucks. Atleast i can still drive my truck though with that little shift linkage override. Tommorrow im gonna start checking wires out.

Also, i was welding that tube to the frame which happened to be like within a foot from the fuse box in the cab, i have a feeling something is wrong in that area.

Anyone know from the things i have described what exactly i should look at (like someone mentioned the headlight relay or door chime). What is the door chime run off and where can i find it and what should i look for that deals with that shifter? Thanks so far guys i appreciate it. Dave
 

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PreRunnerTaco said:
I was doing the tube that runs across the roof down the pillar through the dash and to the frame. I was welding it to the frame and i was grounded to the cage. Like i said, never had a problem before until this and now it sucks. Atleast i can still drive my truck though with that little shift linkage override. Tommorrow im gonna start checking wires out.

Also, i was welding that tube to the frame which happened to be like within a foot from the fuse box in the cab, i have a feeling something is wrong in that area.

Anyone know from the things i have described what exactly i should look at (like someone mentioned the headlight relay or door chime). What is the door chime run off and where can i find it and what should i look for that deals with that shifter? Thanks so far guys i appreciate it. Dave
did you by any chance heat anything up in that area, because my tubes run in teh same location and I dont have any problems, infact i bolted mine back in 2 minutes later after i welded it up... sounds like you have a melted wire or two that are crossing up...


I DID however short my dash out on accident when i was running without a dash but had the gauges in there, i shorted it because its live back there, well it blew a fuse in the truck and the truck acted like it was out of gas, i replaced the fuse and was on my way.
 

· The Satanic Panic
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either you melted something, or you created a circuit between the welder and some of the electrical components, start by checking where your welds were, where heat could have tampered with wires, also check the wires between that and the battery

as for the buzzer
my guess is that relays are stuck from the items that remain "on" while the ignition is off, or the relay in the ignition cylinder has been shot, and now the only way its shut off is by the switch in the door

for the transmission, u prb lost the connection between the ignition and the sensor for your shifter so while the engine is on, the shifter is still off

im still confused about your headlights, the buzzer should activate when the door is open, but to pinpoint your problem, i think your ignition is the place to start, i dont know if some of these components are controlled by the ecu or what not since it is always on too, but i would go there second
 

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PreRunnerTaco said:
Ok, i have heard of the rule to disconnect the battery if welding to the truck, but i welded a bunch without doing it and nothing ever happened and finally something did happed and i need your guys help. Its an 01 ext. cab 2.7 automatic

Ok so here are the problems ive noticed so far. First it was a blown ignition fuse, put a new one in and the truck started. Then, i would put my foot on the brake and try to put the truck in reverse or any gear for that matter and it will not let me. I finally realized i could pop that little plastic peice off and push the little white button down and bypass the shifter to put it into any gear, and that is the only way i can drive my truck now. Also, the dinger that dings when the door is open should only ding with the keys on ACC or ON with the door open, well now after all this it dings when the motor is running and the door is open. And the last thing ive noticed, if my headlights are on and i turn the truck off, they stay on and when i open the door they automatically turn off. Now they will not do that, it always stay on.

Someone please tell me what the hell is wrong, ive checked all fuses and everything looks good. I need to be able to put it in gear without using the bypass button thing and i need the truck back to normal! Thanks, Dave
In the interior fuse box area there is a 3"x4" white box called an integration relay, it seems to be the "hub" for most things electrical in the truck..I had one malfunction and I had no taillights, no dome lights, no buzzer etc..May be worth a look..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Can anyone help me figure out what wire that dore chime is? I found out that the door chime also has to do with the headlight auto turn off so once i fix that, thats killing two birds with one stone and all i'll have left is the shifter problem. Thanks
 
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