TTORA Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an 04 tacoma with a naturally aspirated 3.4L motor and it has 43K on it. The only things that I have done as far as performance wise is exhaust and deckplate/elbow removal and an amsoil filter.

I have noticed that when i put the pedal to the floor at speeds upwards of 40 or so that it does not have as much power as it does if I let off of the throttle a little bit. I was wondering if that sounds like it is running lean or not and what I should do about it.

I was going to start by running some seafoam through the fuel system and maybe changing the fuel filter, but I dont know where to go if that doesn't work.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Teddy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,295 Posts
Definately sounds like it could be running lean. Best thing to do would be to pick up URD's piggyback they have for NA trucks...that way you could retune it to add some fuel.

At 43k miles dont worry about seafoam, take it in somewhere and have a fuel injector service done...it will help a lot more than seafoam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was thinking about getting a charger a little later down the road. Will the piggyback work with the charger, and also, would it need to be tuned if i bought it.

I was probably going to bring it in and get the injectors cleaned, but from what i remember it was pretty pricey. I wanted to start cheaper and see if anything works.

I was surprised when i sat down and thought about it, I know of the problems of running lean when blown, but I didnt think it would happen to a stock motor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,295 Posts
An injector service is only about $50-80 or so depending on where you take it.

I'm pretty sure the calibrator for NA is diferent than the one for forced induction. And yes you would have to fine tune it for your truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
If you want to check for yourself if your truck is running lean pull out two or three sparkplugs. If the plug tips are white and parched you are lean. If the plugs are very caked up black and mabe even wet with fuel then you are rich. If your plugs seem to be fine I would deffiently change my fuel filter. I just changed my @ 43k My dirty filter would start starving my motor at about 4,000 rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
Have you ever cleaned the MAF? When is the last time you changed the spark plugs? If you've done the above, I would try running a 1 stage colder plug before buying a piggyback ecu.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the advice. i am going to pull the plugs tomorrow and clean the MAF. I am probably going to change the fuel filter too then. i wanted to go the cheap route before springing 2+bills on the urd thing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Up until detonation, leaner means more power, not less.

Your ecu goes into open loop mode at full throtte and the stock ecu is designed to run your motor very rich under that condition.

Rich mean less power, however, COOLER and thus safer for your motor. The excess gasoline is being used as a cylinder spray coolant and is NOT being consumed in the combustion process for extra power.

At less than 50k miles, your Toyota should be ultra clean, your MAF and fuel filter should not be anywhere near dirty. 50K is near showroom new for a Toyota.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
Not true as far as the fuel filter goes. A handful of members here will tell that fuel filters have needed to be replaced far below 50k. But you have a solid point that lean means more power up to the point of detination which puts this guy back down to ground zero for trying to fix his problem.
 

·
Smoked Out!
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
Up until detonation, leaner means more power, not less.

Your ecu goes into open loop mode at full throtte and the stock ecu is designed to run your motor very rich under that condition.

Rich mean less power, however, COOLER and thus safer for your motor. The excess gasoline is being used as a cylinder spray coolant and is NOT being consumed in the combustion process for extra power.
This is not 100% true. For the most part when someone says lean that implies above stoichiometric ratio and rich means below stoichiometric ratio. For unleaded gas this is an AFR of 14.7. It has been established that there is less emission at stoic, but max power is roughly at a ratio of 12 to 1. So in terms of rich or lean it will always be on the rich side. This is where most manufacturers will set the open loop WOT setting. So deviating either higher(leaner) or lower(richer) than 12:1 will result in a less than max power. Without a wideband sensor you will not really be able to pinpoint if the loss of power is from running to much fuel( to rich) or not running enough (to lean- but still on the rich side of the spectrum). Detonation will only tell you the point of possible instant mechanical damage and will never tell you how far or close to max power you are. To say running leaner will result in more power is not entirely a true statement and can be up for misinterpretation. What everyone should be stating for clarity is proper AFRs for the given fuel type. Once again for that you do need a wideband sensor. Now the spark plug test, as mentioned, is a good indication of what is going on in your engine, but that would mean you will have to run your engine that way for a few hundred miles possibly a few thousand miles to get that to show up and it will just be a rough estimate. If it were me, I would try to take care of that ASAP as engine damage can occur if you are running to lean(or you could be decreasing your engine life). As well as knowing for sure you are at max power or close to it without having to speculate.

At less than 50k miles, your Toyota should be ultra clean, your MAF and fuel filter should not be anywhere near dirty. 50K is near showroom new for a Toyota.
This really has nothing to do with Toyota, Honda, Nissan, or any other type of manufacturer. This has to do with the environment in which the vehicle has been exposed to. If the fuel that you put in the tank of your car/truck is dirty as $hit, you could plug up that filter within a few hundred miles(taking extreme cases here as examples). If the MAF is exposed to oily K&N filter it will be buggered up instantly. So we cant really claim a Toyota filter or MAF is any better or worst than any other. Toyota has a recommended replacement schedule, but even they claim it is just a recommendation under “Normal” driving conditions. I’d consider an off road truck a not so “normal” driving condition when it comes to dust and dirt and filters getting plugged up. I would try all of that first and see if that helps as an improper AFR that is noticeable as the original poster mentioned would more than likely come from a dirty injector, clogged filter, or malfunctioning sensor. If that doesn’t work, then you have to dig into it deeper.
 

·
Smoked Out!
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
I'm pretty sure the calibrator for NA is diferent than the one for forced induction. And yes you would have to fine tune it for your truck.
URD has a few different calibrators. They all will work for NA or supercharged applications, but they calibrate different things. For a supercharged application the calibrator should take manifold air pressure into account and should allow for timing adjustment. The original poster should contact URD directly and ask about the calibrator with those functions even though he is NA because he will be upgrading later. But like mentioned before he will have to tune for his set up and application and he will need a wideband to do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
well, I cleaned the MAF, ran some seafoam in the tank and the intake, and pulled the plugs to look at them. I am also going to run some lucas injector cleaner on my next tank to see if that helps.

I noticed two things:
1.) I need a new air filter, or to clean it out
2.) the plugs weren't white, but kinda between a reddish orange and white color


But, it is still doing it. I guess I am going to get a new air filter, or clean it, and see what happens after that and the lucas injector cleaner stuff. The dealership wants $100 to clean the injectors and I dont really trust any of the shops around here to do a proper job at it.

I have come to the conclusion that I am either going to have to spend the $100 for the injector service, $200+ for the URD thing, or $300 for both.
 

·
Smoked Out!
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
just an FYI, if you decide on the URD calibrator, you will either have to buy trhe stuff to tune and learn how to, or find someone that can do it for you. It is not just a plug and play thing. To get the most from it you will have to play with the tune. Now if this problem wasn't there before, i would suggest it is a problem that needs to be addressed, not masked. The URD calibrator is design to get the most out of your add ons and so on, not adjust for clogged filters or dirty injector or any other mechanical problem.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top