TTORA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need some schooling on body work products. I'm patching up some sheet metal on my FJ40 (rear quarter panels and tub), and I'll need to use some filler to finish it up and smooth out the patches. I also need to fill in some bends and seams where the old metal meets the new metal inside the tub. What do I need to know in terms of the products out there?

Seam Sealer: 3M seems to be a popular manufacturer, but there are many varieties. Should I just look for general all-purpose stuff in a caulking tube? Anything I should look for?

Filler: Same questions really. Am I looking for anything special? Fiberglass-based?

And where is a good place to buy this stuff? Are there specialty stores, or should I just hit up Napa or Carquest for the small amounts I'll need? What else do I need to know?;)

Thanks for the input.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
20,355 Posts
Pretty sure good old bondo is going to be your best bet, but we will see what Nate suggests.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,910 Posts
Seam Sealer -

I would personally not recommend anything but a 2 part seam sealer. Seam sealers cannot be laid over bare metal, the metal must be prepped, and primed with self etching primer before laying seam sealer. The one part sealers are junk, and will just create more problems then they are worth in the long run, essentially it'll bring back what you already fixed. There are different 2 part sealers, some are more durable than others and each one has a different use. I don't know part numbers off of the top of my head but I'll check when I get into work tomorrow and get the part # for what will best suite your application. You're looking in the right direction with 3m products though, as the old saying goes "you get what you pay for". Spending a little more money NOW (body work/prep stages) will save you TONS of money down the road. Try to see if you can find someone you know to borrow a 2 part mixing gun, otherwise they are rather expensive to buy for a one time project.

Bondo -

Bondo is bondo, again I'd recommend 3m personally, but there's really no specifics you need to know about it. Bondo is more in the mixing than anything, make sure the bondo/hardener ratio is correct. Too much hardener, and it'll dry to fast and shrink, not enough wont really hurt anything however it's not ideal as it takes extended periods of time to dry, or may never dry. I prefer blue hardener myself, but they offer red as well. Both are exactly the same, just different colors; it's ideal to have both if you're planning on laying multiple layers. When mixing, do not mix on a cardboard template/mixing plate, it'll suck a lot of the needed additives, and moisture out of the bondo before you even start smearing it; you do not want this. Use an aluminum mixing plate (preferred) or steel. When actually mixing the bondo with the hardener, most people will flip it; IE: push it one way across the board than flip it over onto itself; this creates little air bubbles/pockets which will later create pin holes once you begin to sand it down. Do everything in ONE direction, leaning the putty knife @ 45* angle, and just keep moving across the bondo 'puddle' on the board. Make sure it's free/clean of any contaminants (lacquer thinner works best for this) and scrub everything down right when you finish in a small coffee can with lacquer thinner in it using a piece of red scotch bright.

Before applying sand the metal/rough it up with a flap wheel, or some 80 grit paper so the bondo has more to stick too. After it's applied, and dry, knock down any rough/larger edges with some 36grit paper on a block while its still kind of soft then let it finish 'curing' (cure time will take anywhere from 30-45 minutes, dependent on temperature, humidity, hardener, etc.) Once it's completely cured go back over all of it with a block, and 80 grit until its feathered out nicely with the panels, and is straight. If you break through back to the metal before you get the bondo straight, mix another batch and re-smear the area. Do not let bondo build up more than 1/8th if you can of an inch as it'll create problems in the future, 1/4" is acceptable, and will most likely be OK, but it is not ideal. If you have some serious filling to do (big suck spots you cannot get out, etc.) I would use duraglass in those areas.

After the bondo is all smoothed out with 80grit, guide coat it (any black paint will work, just lightly spray a 'speckled' type coat over the bondo) and block it with 180 to kill off some of the scratches. Do it lightly, as you do not have to get ALL of the scratches out. Go with a high build poly primer (anything PPG/Nexa/Autocolor is good product) and coat the area of mud work with at least 3 good thick coats (i prefer more myself, the more primer you use, the more you can block, the straighter you can get it). Absolutely do not use any rattle can primers, they're junk and will have to be completely sanded off before any true automotive paint is sprayed on the vehicle.

We get all of our products from Painters Supply down in denver (Sante Fe and Iliff, its just before red and jerrys, where all of that new development is).

If you have any other questions PM me or post here, i'll get those seam sealer part numbers to you tomorrow. Let me know when you're going to be starting on the mud work portion and I'd be happy to help you out. Lafayette isn't too far from Brighton.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
7,735 Posts
If you have any other questions PM me or post here, i'll get those seam sealer part numbers to you tomorrow. Let me know when you're going to be starting on the mud work portion and I'd be happy to help you out. Lafayette isn't too far from Brighton.
Fuck that, post here so we can all hear the answers. Fuckin great info right there Nate! I'm not sure I'll ever put together show quality finish on my pile of crap, but if I did, I'll be looking up this post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
:clap: Nate. I can't find the :bowdown: smiley here or I would have used it. You da man!

Filler is a requirement for what I'm doing. There was already 1/4" on the right qtr panel before I sanded it off to get to bare metal, and between the alignment challenges and my ability to weld sheet I'm going to need some cover up to finish her off. The left side is better, but...

And thanks for the offer to help Nate. I'm not sure when I'll get to the finishing steps, but when I do your help will be much appreciated. I don't need it to be perfect, and if I completely botch it I'll just save up for a full replacement QP.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,910 Posts
Forgot to get the seam sealer #'s for you today, I'll try to remember tomorrow.

With what you're doing there, you do not need to use seam sealer on the front side, just the back side. Make sure it's covered around all of the welds really well and there are no air pockets in it.

The patch panel looks good, follows the body lines well, but you're making it hard on yourself welding through the corner. Instances such as these, its almost better to just cut the whole corner out of a donor tub, and weld it into yours where the sheet metal is straight. The round curve is going to be hard to obtain again, and with it being in such a vulnerable spot you may see some damage back there eventually creating problems with the bondo cracking (like my bed on my truck).

Looks like a fun project though, Matt! Keep us posted :kewl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
So how come we haven't seen any pictures of this rig yet? You didn't even brag to us about buying it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
With what you're doing there, you do not need to use seam sealer on the front side, just the back side. Make sure it's covered around all of the welds really well and there are no air pockets in it.

The patch panel looks good, follows the body lines well, but you're making it hard on yourself welding through the corner. Instances such as these, its almost better to just cut the whole corner out of a donor tub, and weld it into yours where the sheet metal is straight. The round curve is going to be hard to obtain again, and with it being in such a vulnerable spot you may see some damage back there eventually creating problems with the bondo cracking (like my bed on my truck).

Looks like a fun project though, Matt! Keep us posted :kewl:
Thanks. I was actually thinking the seam sealer would be necessary for where the old tub bed comes together with the new piece, and for the corners where the doors are. But what you are saying about the back of the cut seams makes sense too.

So how come we haven't seen any pictures of this rig yet? You didn't even brag to us about buying it!
mrdoug said:
Holy crap.. i never go to the nat boards... nice find!
Thanks. I'm not much of a bragger....just trying to learn a few new tricks and have fun.

ike said:
He mentioned he had bought it on a run last summer.
See - I do get out and wheel every once in a while.:rolleyes:;)

The 40 has seen a bit of trail time, but I had some issues with the tranny that I have yet to resolve. Does pretty good at the mall though....
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
20,355 Posts
I havent seen the 40 on the trail yet, just the taco. But hopefully this summer we get to see it a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I wasn't really expecting it, but the right side turned out MUCH better than the left side.

Tacked



Grinded




Should I run a bead of seam sealer along the lines of the patch panel? Both front and back?

Can seam sealer be sanded?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,910 Posts
Just run it along the back side, Matt.

Try to fill in more of the gaps between each weld if you can, it'll help hold everything together in the long run. You also dont want to be trying to fill those cracks with bondo, as it'll stick to the seam sealer behind it then when the seam sealer flexes, it'll crack the bondo.

I chatted with the lady that comes into my work weekly to order supplies and such, there is a 1 part seam sealer that'll work well for applications such as these. Its essentially the same stuff as any OEM seam sealer around the fire wall, pinch welds, etc. She didnt get a part number to me before she left, but i'll check sometime over the weekend or early next week.

Coming along great! Wish i was half as productive as you are :p
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top