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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up $75 worth of steel from K&K Surplus on Saturday. Including welding supplies, I'm looking at about $100 total for these things. Not bad, if you ask me. So today, I decided to get started. I don't have gas for the welder currently, so all that I could really do was design, plan, and cut on Easter Sunday. Here's what I got accomplished:





All of that was pretty easy stuff...but these caps for the ends took me some time:


I started to do more weld prep with the grinder, but then decided I was too tired after one leg:


Here they are next to the truck:


I have some more steel to do something like this, after I have the main part together:



Yes, it may look a little goofy, and may or may not serve a neccesary purpose...but I like the idea of cab protection....Doors can be replaced easy...Cabs not so much.
 

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Nice work, Kyle. Those are sick. Can't wait to see the final product. I had no idea you could get something together for that cheap. Great work. I am sure others are gonna be knocking on your door for help building some of those.
 

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they sell cab corners that are easily replaceable...

but keep the protection there anyway :p

they look like they arent going to be far enough out? I know my sliders sit out about a good 3" past the pinch weld.
 

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I HIGHLY recommend a dual rail setup, one directly under the pinchweld, one further out. The problem is that you end up with a lot of localized pressure from the legs into the pinchweld with just the single rail, and will end up damaging the cab (albeit, a lot better than what the rocks will do).

Your angled supports are too small. The heat from the weld will be too localized on the frame. At the very least, you need some triangular gussets to go between the top of the leg and the frame, otherwise you will be beating them down like we have to do with Molly's.

Don't go too cheap - you will have a lot of time in it when it's all said and done, and you don't want to have to do it again.
 

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like troy said the dual rail setup is much better. mine (bought from wabfab) I had to cut the legs to fit and get them welded up. but keeping one of the rails under the pinch weld will distribute the weight of the body on the entire length instead of just at the legs. that way, when they get knocked up (that sounds dirtier than intended) they dont imbed themselves in your body.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I don't have another rail, and I fail to see how it would help as long as the single rail is secure to the frame. When I mocked mine up, I could get the legs about 1/4" below the pinchweld...Unless some serious bending of my 3/8" thick tubing goes on, or a weld breaks, it shouldn't happen. I suppose I could put a thick piece of rubber inbetween the legs and the pinchweld, to close that 1/4" gap, to relieve any pressure it may get..

I was thinking about going dual rail last night, and thought that I might get some tubing bent for an outer rail...but that just doesn't seem to benefit anything other than somewhat of a kickout and a step?

Troy - I can easily make some gussets....so gussets it is for the supports.

Nate - Currently, my legs end just about an inch outside of the pinchweld. So with 2 5/8" square tubing that's over 3" outside the pinchweld.

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody....but I'm going forth with what I have...plus some gussets. When I get it tacked together, and mocked on to the truck, I'll take some pictures before final welding to see what everybody thinks.
 

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Your angled supports are too small. The heat from the weld will be too localized on the frame. At the very least, you need some triangular gussets to go between the top of the leg and the frame, otherwise you will be beating them down like we have to do with Molly's.
I totally agree with this statement! You will want gussets, and your L brackets will not reach high enough on the frame to do so as they are know.

If i were to do mine again i would have made my L brackets a bit diffrenet. I have plan jane L brackets that are welded straight up the frame, i have heard that this is bad and that i may have some frame fatigue problems in the future. I have heard that a diamond shape on the frame would have been better.

Also as far as gussets i would not just put a flat piece of stock in the middle of your leg and then up to the frame, i would (did) use 2x2 cut in triangles and then notched to fit the legs. The middle of the leg is the weakest piece of that part, so instead of doing what a gusset should do, its really not going to do anything at all other than dimple the leg where it is attached. (if you had round legs a single gussett in the middle of the leg would work, square stock all it does is look good and take more work to complete)
I dont have a good pict of the under side of my truck, but if you look at the sliders here you will see my gussetts.


(please disregard the rust on them, i never painted it after mounting them, so now i have to go back and fix that.....one of these days)

And yes they move a bit, but not much more than maybe at most an 1/8" (I bet its closer to a 1/16). I have had the full weight of my truck on my driver side slider. No defelction and i slid down about 3' before hitting the slider at damn near full speed. Strong gussetts = little to no movement.

the second outer bar......You can always add an outer bar in the future, i will if i ever decide it needed.


In any case props to you for making them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep going, you will have changes and changes but in the end you will be super happy with what you have created!!!!!
 

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x2 but ill help ya :saw: then:welder: when you need to fix em.
If he builds the gussetts right he wont get much movement.

So he might be able to reserve a couple "i told you so's" for you two! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I will have gussets, so I'm not ignoring what you're telling me completely. And I appreciate the advice. It's not that I don't believe you. In fact I do believe that they would move....but I going to build them to the best of my abilities to make sure that they don't, with the materials I have. Several things on my truck have been somewhat of an experiment that was ill-advised by others, that turned out great anyway. You can say I told you so, or I can say I told you so....but it just doesn't really matter, because I have faith in my design.
 

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I have faith in your design as well!

They will look good when you are done and they will hold the weight of your truck too.

Did you say you are using 3/8" thick tubing? or 3/8" L's?

From the looks of your brackets you could turn them 90* and use the longer leg up the frame and the shorter leg on the bottom. If that will work it would allow more room for your gussetts too.

I also see some left over scrap in your picts, you could use some of that to make the full gussetts i was speaking of. (im sure you dont want to buy more steel if you used it all up already, but you might try the steel supplies cut off ben, sometimes they have some loose stuff that will work.) I wish i was closer i have a bunch of 2x2 drop offs that would work for fat gussets.

Good Luck!!!!!
 

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It's not the steel that you're putting on the truck that will flex. It's the frame itself that will flex. The frame really isn't made to have that sort of leverage put on it. In most cases it handles it well enough. But sometimes when you really get to banging your truck around the sliders will move. I have Domello DIYs. They have very good frame plates and gussets, and my truck still has little half moon dents in the pinch weld from the tubing coming in contact with the cab. Try the single tube. You can always add another tube later. I think in the long run it would be easier just to make it double tube from the get go though. Not shitting on you. Just advice and constructive criticism. You're doin' good kid.:D
 

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i personally only have the single rail sliders, and im going to be plating the whole under side (from the rail to the frame) with at LEAST 1/8th" plate, ideally 1/4" so i have something to slide on, plus i figure it'll help with support. (after i gusset the legs of course)
 
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