im meeting jason around 10 or so at his house
quit playing grab ass with Jason ! get your butt on pirate, your missing the good deals. V6 5.29 yukon with full detroit low miles 550 shipped , you can't build it for that and another 5.29 diff for sale that could be used in your front axle for sale too.im meeting jason around 10 or so at his house
:2cents:nice little truck! Ive always loved the extended cabs. Go with the double shackles in the rear with those 63's they work great just use the stock chevy shackle with another one at the right length to give you a good shackle angle.
Right now im using a homemade shackle and a 2" chevy lowering shackle flipped on my runner and they work well.
GL on the build!
Ive had ZERO problems with mine on the trails and on the street as a DD. Also the chevys are a much thicker and "stiffer" to not allow that axle wrap. I think its all personal preference to which you want, all of them are proven.:2cents:
Don't do this! It'll unload like crazy on descents and unless you want to run a traction bar, it'll give you all kinds of wheel hop and bend springs on climbs. The double setup lets the rear axle try to drive under the truck on steep hills. It will look fucking sweet on an RTI ramp, but won't be as useful on the trail as a proplerly set up rear shackle hanger w/ a single shackle. Check it out on pirate. Also look at the buggy leaf (3/4 elliptical) set ups. They are equally not good.
edit: just stick w/ your plan of getting the sky's chevy setup.
i'm just sayin...if you're climbing a hill, the rear axle will be more likely to try to drive under the rig, and if you're going downhill (i'm talking really steep hills), the ass end will be more likely to unload and dump you on your roof. maybe you just haven't had it happen YET, but that's not saying it can't/won't happen. and yes, chevy springs are stiffer than toyota ones, but they can still give you alot of wheel hop. that's why alot of folks keep the overload and cut the rear half of it off or run a trac bar with chevy springs.Ive had ZERO problems with mine on the trails and on the street as a DD. Also the chevys are a much thicker and "stiffer" to not allow that axle wrap. I think its all personal preference to which you want, all of them are proven.
Me too.You could always 3 link it before you spend a dime on the leaves. I wish I would have.
my answers.Whats the difference between IFS and solid axle hub gears on Longs site? Are the IFS hubs stronger?
The only difference is so that there are more options for folks who want to keep the stronger aisin lockouts (whether from a solid axle or an IFS rig). The IFS hub gears make it so you can run your IFS lockouts on a solid axle.
I have been looking for a HP third or housing to no avail so far. I was thinking the HP housing from TG. Anyone heard any good/bad experiences with that particular item?
I asked around about that housing, and it seems the few that are running it haven't had any problems to date. I guess it's hard to fuck up a cast housing. Go for it.
Yes, it adds 3 inches in width. I just ordered my Diamond housing and went with the ifs hubs, ifs hub lock outs, and Tacoma brake mounting kit. It's $99 for FrontRange's Tacoma brake mounting kit, or for $129 Brian will make one for Tundra Brakes on a solid axle. If you do this you have to turn down the IFS hubs a little so you can slip the Taco/Tundra rotors over the hub. You can also buy the turned down hubs from FrontRange for $40 a piece. The main reason I went this way besides the upgraded braking is ease of axle tear down. With this set up you can replace birfields and and pull third members without touching wheel bearings!! You can also replace brake rotors or have them turned without having to press out hub/wheel studs!Yep. I have read that the IFS rotor, caliper, hub upgrade eliminates the spacers.