TTORA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
680 Posts

·
The Satanic Panic
Joined
·
609 Posts
i dunno, ive always used a flaring tool and bender to make my own fittings, if u goto napa or even auto zone will let u rent out the tools and they will have fittings and tubing to do it ur self, since thats what ur going to want to do when u add a proportion valve
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,929 Posts
There is nothing really wrong with the stock one. Why spend the money when all you really need to do is adapt what you have and still have load compensation which happens to come in handy in up hill/down hill braking control? It never made any sense to me to pay more and get less then add more work into the bargain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,255 Posts
Dick Foster said:
There is nothing really wrong with the stock one. Why spend the money when all you really need to do is adapt what you have and still have load compensation which happens to come in handy in up hill/down hill braking control? It never made any sense to me to pay more and get less then add more work into the bargain.
Some of us have rear disk brakes so we need the extra control.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
800 Posts
...and some of us have them mounted inside the cab so we can easily crank up the rears when on the trail.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,929 Posts
Speaking of brake controls in the cab. John, I had an idea for e-brakes that I wanted to bounce off of you.
How about putting some ball valves in the cab? When you want the ebrake just mash the brake pedal and close the valves. One for the front and one for the rear. You could even use line locks in addition to the ball valves if you wanted to pump up the pressure really high. What do you think?
I was thinking of giving it a try on the FJ. Not some cheap ass hardware store ball valves mind you but something from a hydralic supply house.
I alreay have some that I was going to use in the steering assist setup before I decided that quick connects would be a better idea. They are just lying out there in a hell box and didn't cost all that much as I recall. The ones I have may be a little big for brakes so maybe I'll pick up some 1/4 inchers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
800 Posts
Actually Dick, I have been planning to put a hydraulic "parking brake" on the Heep in conjunction with building the dash. All of the hydraulic parts and (8) brand spanking new Autometer gauges have been in a box in the garage for the past seven years. :eek:

What I was planning on doing is something similar to the comercially available "lever-lock", in the form of a ball valve and check valve in parallel. That way, one could close the ball valve first, then pump up the brakes through the check, locking in the pressure on the downstream side. That would also allow "topping off" at one's leisure. Of course, to release the parking brake, one would just open the ball valve.

This configuration would also provide additional "safety" in case one were to inadvertantly close the ball valve without any pressure on the downstream side [disabling the brakes], although once the brakes were applied in such an instance, they would stay applied...better than none at all. ;)

You are right about not cheaping out on the parts; the stuff I have is rated for 10,000 psi, although max line pressure is more like 1,000+. A vendor gave them to me so price was not a consideration. Be VERY careful of seal materials; most elastomers don't play well with brake fluid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,892 Posts
FROR - from summit but comes with all the adaptors



AZrockbum said:
Any preference on what people are using for a proportion valve? Also where is the best place to get them. I know of the FROR one and have heard of references to others but cant find ones im sure will work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,929 Posts
Same thing the check valve you're looking for is a line lock. All they are is an electrically enabled line lock. On it's a check valve off it's just an open line. It's exactly what I was talking about. If you put the line lock up stream of the ball valve instead of in parallel you have what I was talking about with the added convenience of the line lock for temp e braking on all four corner to really hold on steep hills or when winching another vehicle. The ball valve is to keep it locked up without running the battery down with the line lock when used as a standard e-brake. As you know, I like electrical stuff.
I don't really know how much more pressure the check valves can add but it must be some over just one stroke of the MC. Theoretically none I guess, if it were all hydraulic but I think in the real world there is some as the brake booster uses air a compressible gas or more accurately the lack of it I suppose.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
800 Posts
Not sure that I understand your post Dick, but I still would not advise putting a manual valve as the only flow path on a brake circuit, as inadvertant activation would disable the brakes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,929 Posts
I don't build my shit for idiots to drive. I figure it's kind of a built in theft deterent and is why none of the added switches or shift levers in my truck are labled.
If you keep them up high, in sight, inadvertant operation would be hard to do. How could you miss a big assed handle on a ball valve sticking up being in the wrong position anyway? I imagine the brake pedal would be stiff as hell too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
800 Posts
Dick Foster said:
I don't build my shit for idiots to drive.
....than what were you thinking when you let me drive it? ;)

Seriously, I genuinely feel that the check valve in parallel with the ball valve is the better solution because of the functionality it provides. The commentary on additional "safety", perceived or actual, is simply lagniappe.

Do you care to elaborate on any negatives associated with the suggested configuration?

I have tried to lead the horse to water; whether or not he drinks it is his choice.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,929 Posts
I was going to say the same thing about you. LOL

For one your method doesn't involve electricity and I happen to like buttons and switches. LOL

Now if we deleted the line lock (part time check valve) or check valve and went with just a simple ball valve alone, that would be the simpler hook up. It's just the amount of additional line pressure that you could possibly build up with a check valve that would be lacking.

As far as not having any braking with the valve closed as in my configuration or having the brakes possibly lock up on you with your hook up. I suppose the safety aspects would depend on the situation at hand.
With my way if you had it closed when you started out concievably the brakes would already be applied so you would know right away. However if you closed the valve inadvertently while underway, it would seem that you'd get a stiff pedal and know fairly quickly what was up. Kinda like an engine out situation in a conventional twin engine aircraft. If however you accidentally closed the ball valve in your setup, the check valve would apply the brakes and not allow you to release them and you could lock up the wheels at speed.

In either hook up you'd have to be smart enough to use it. I guess it boils down to that age old set of choices of choosing whether to be shot, hung or poisoned. LOL
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top