Quick Discos
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Here's a write up that was floating around awhile back:
Parts you will need if you want to build your own:
2 - 8"x1/2" Carriage bolts with an unthreaded shouler area at the head. All threads should be #13.
2 - 3"x1/2" Grade 8 bolts with an unthreaded shoulder area
2 - 1/2" female end heims/rod ends with any thread size or direction
6 - 1/2" Nylock nuts
2 - 1/2" wing nuts
2- 3/16" hitch pins
4- bushings (Energy Suspension 9.8103R)
4- 1/2" washers
Tools you will need:
Grinder or a file and some patience
Cut off wheel because a hack or jig saw will take forever to go through Grade 8
1/2", 3/16" drill bits plus a drill. I recommend a drill press, Cobalt bits and cutting oil.
Two 19mm or 3/4" wrenches
Welder
Slide a heim on to a Grade 8 bolt and thread a nylock backwards on to the G8 and tighten it until the nylon reaches where the threads end on the bolt near the shoulder.
Mark for a 3/16" hole so that it is closely adjacent to the heim.
Remove the bolt and heim from the G8 and drill the hole. You may have to start small if you have cheap bits. Use a slow speed on the drill (press).
Reinstall the nylock and then cut the head off the G8 midway between the head and the hole you drilled.
Campher the end of the bolt and hole with a file or grinder so that the heim is easier to install.
When the hitch pin is inserted, the heim should be snug. If not tighten the nylock some more. Try not to damage the heim's seating surface on the stud.
Remove the heim and cut the head off a carriage bolt.
Insert the cut end into the heim to the bottom of the hole.
Weld the carriage bolt to the heim.
Repeat for the other link.
I made a set like this, they work good.
Tim
Parts you will need if you want to build your own:
2 - 8"x1/2" Carriage bolts with an unthreaded shouler area at the head. All threads should be #13.
2 - 3"x1/2" Grade 8 bolts with an unthreaded shoulder area
2 - 1/2" female end heims/rod ends with any thread size or direction
6 - 1/2" Nylock nuts
2 - 1/2" wing nuts
2- 3/16" hitch pins
4- bushings (Energy Suspension 9.8103R)
4- 1/2" washers
Tools you will need:
Grinder or a file and some patience
Cut off wheel because a hack or jig saw will take forever to go through Grade 8
1/2", 3/16" drill bits plus a drill. I recommend a drill press, Cobalt bits and cutting oil.
Two 19mm or 3/4" wrenches
Welder
Slide a heim on to a Grade 8 bolt and thread a nylock backwards on to the G8 and tighten it until the nylon reaches where the threads end on the bolt near the shoulder.
Mark for a 3/16" hole so that it is closely adjacent to the heim.
Remove the bolt and heim from the G8 and drill the hole. You may have to start small if you have cheap bits. Use a slow speed on the drill (press).
Reinstall the nylock and then cut the head off the G8 midway between the head and the hole you drilled.
Campher the end of the bolt and hole with a file or grinder so that the heim is easier to install.
When the hitch pin is inserted, the heim should be snug. If not tighten the nylock some more. Try not to damage the heim's seating surface on the stud.
Remove the heim and cut the head off a carriage bolt.
Insert the cut end into the heim to the bottom of the hole.
Weld the carriage bolt to the heim.
Repeat for the other link.
I made a set like this, they work good.
Tim
Check out Lars Dennert's website. He's a member over on yotatech (not sure about here) and a lot of people there seem to like his discos.
When I get around to it, I'll probably go with his as well.
When I get around to it, I'll probably go with his as well.
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We keep these top notch discos in stock.
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Pretty sure Peter Parks has a write up on making his own, he's on the Cali Board though. Found a link to his site www.parksoffroad.com
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Hey Caleb, I used Lars Dennert's write up (the one ianshoots posted) and Brian had 'em welded up for me at his work. If you don't have someone near you that can do the welding, you may want to ask Brian if he'd do the same for you. Funny thing is, I took 'em off the last time at Tellico and haven't put 'em back on since.Nelium said:
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331 Posts
Another option is to just remove the swaybar all together... 
My 04 D-cab is running donahoe coil-overs and deaver 10 leaf pack with bilsteins and it drives great on the highway with the swaybar removed. Though as you would expect, there is a little more sway, but still controlled. The coil-overs and stiffer steins make it possible.
Not recommending this to everyone, but if you have experience driving taller trucks go for it. I dont run them on my Trooper either.
I have found one situation where it is most noticeable. During long sweeping turns (like a 180 degree freeway exit, or any long turn that allows the stiffer shocks and springs to compress), the shocks aren't enough, and you just have to drive slower. However, in quick manuevers and 90 degree turns the shocks do a great job of controlling the chassis.
Just an idea
My 04 D-cab is running donahoe coil-overs and deaver 10 leaf pack with bilsteins and it drives great on the highway with the swaybar removed. Though as you would expect, there is a little more sway, but still controlled. The coil-overs and stiffer steins make it possible.
Not recommending this to everyone, but if you have experience driving taller trucks go for it. I dont run them on my Trooper either.
I have found one situation where it is most noticeable. During long sweeping turns (like a 180 degree freeway exit, or any long turn that allows the stiffer shocks and springs to compress), the shocks aren't enough, and you just have to drive slower. However, in quick manuevers and 90 degree turns the shocks do a great job of controlling the chassis.
Just an idea
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I dont think RJ runs his either, he just cranked up the coilovers in the front a little and says you dont even notice.expeditionswest said:Another option is to just remove the swaybar all together...
My 04 D-cab is running donahoe coil-overs and deaver 10 leaf pack with bilsteins and it drives great on the highway with the swaybar removed. Though as you would expect, there is a little more sway, but still controlled. The coil-overs and stiffer steins make it possible.
I'm sure that this is the wrong place to suggest it this sort of thing, but what/how many people would it take for you guys to give a group buy on those? They are pricey, but being in the rustbelt I totally dig that they are stainless.Front Range said:We keep these top notch discos in stock.![]()
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Probably, but I give you credit for being smart enough to know that!Nelium said:
Even at 30 I am still narrowly avoiding death (mtn. biking, rock climbing, car racing etc...) :xdevil:
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