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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall, I wanted to turn my stock 4Runner into a trail rig with some 33's and a 4-5 in lift. But I was told that I would probably need to regear it so I dont put any extra strain on my drivetrain. I have 4.10 gears right now and I was wondering how expensive this was to do. Im new to 4 wheeling but im desperate and anxious to learn. I dont plan on doing anything till I find out what I should do with gearing this thing. Does gearing the truck just involve front and rear diff? or does it involve changing the transfer case as well? Is this something that I can do? Thank for all yalls help...

Andy
Cornelius, NC
 

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Yeah, you really want 4.88's with 33's.

If it's truly going to be a trail only rig (or you don't mind it being a DOG on the road), you could regear the transfer case if you have a 4cyl.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/gears.htm

If you're going to regear the diffs, you should DEFINITELY install lockers at the same time (the labor is pretty much the same, so you only pay once instead of twice). I did ARB air lockers front and rear and 4.88's for about $2200, but that's the most expensive locker setup - other ways are cheaper and will work just fine for a trail rig in NC.

Might be a good idea to stop in at Carolina Rock Shop in Charlotte (South Blvd) and talk over your goals with them and make a plan. I suggest armor (sliders and skids) first, tires when the ones you have are worn out. You can fit 33x10.50 with NO lift - so save that money and put it towards gears/lockers which will do WAY more for you on the trail than lift ever will!
 

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Yes definately figure this out so you only have to do it once. Don't do what I did and cheap out and not get lockers. Also don't do what I did and only go 4.88's because I said I'd never go bigger than 33's. That was 2 years ago. Another $1500 later I am regeared a second time with lockers and 5.29's because I'm now running 37's!

4.88's are perfect with 33's and a 5 speed. If you ever plan to run 35's I'd go with 5.29's. The first time I regeared it cost me right around $1000 when it was all said and done with labor and parts. You can wheel with 33's and 4.10's but it's hell on clutches and trying to crawl is a joke.
 

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My two cents - if this is a trail only (or primarily) rig then go with 5.29's. You will most likely end up with at least 35's later on - they will fit with the lift you describe. And as stated before - do the lockers now or you'll be sorry - be it selectable (ARB) or mechanical (Detroit, lock rite, etc). You may also want to get more low range by doing a 4 to 1 (or similar) kit to the transfer case - just depends on what you type of terrain you are wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well this is also my everyday driver, if I am to get a locker I want one I can turn on and off. I would probably just put a locker in the rear. I am only going to be doing Low to Mid difficulty trails. I plan on going out to Uwharrie National forest to do my wheeling. Do they make lift kits that just bolt on or would I require some fabrication? Thanks again...

Andy
Cornelius, NC
 

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I am only going to be doing Low to Mid difficulty trails.
They all say that in the beginning...

Most all lifts are bolt on. You can get an 1" or 2" by cranking the torsion bars, but the tires will still stuff to the same place, so you'll get into the fenders. Other options are balljoint spacers or a bracket lift. In the back you have leafs, so you can do blocks (not recommended), add-a-leaf, or a new spring pack.
 
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