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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 96 reg. cab plain jane-non-TRD axled Tacoma with 3.58 gearing :xbarf: . Im about to get a set of 4.30 gears from a fellow member.(his came out of a 2002)

So I'll have the ring&pinion set for front and rear. now what else am I gonna need once i get around to doing the job. got a friend who's uncle is gonna help me, he's regeared a chevy before and some other domestics.

any special/non-common tools? im gonna need Install Kits right? but do i have to get those expensive-a$$ Master ones? OUCH!! don't know if it matters but my truck has about 93,000 miles on it.

thnx guys, anyone up for a Wrenchathon in the SC area :( :D
 

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Random Dude
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You could probably get away with using the same bearings you have in the truck now and not buy the master rebuild because your truck doesn't have -that- many miles. You'll need some RTV to seal things back up. A torque wrench. Some loc-tite. A backlash measuring device (dial caliper or something). You may also need shims, or whatever it is our rear/front ends use to get the pattern right.

Google around, the answers are out there and google will help you find them.
 

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4x4Dragon said:
I have a 96 reg. cab plain jane-non-TRD axled Tacoma with 3.58 gearing :xbarf: . Im about to get a set of 4.30 gears from a fellow member.(his came out of a 2002)

So I'll have the ring&pinion set for front and rear. now what else am I gonna need once i get around to doing the job. got a friend who's uncle is gonna help me, he's regeared a chevy before and some other domestics.

any special/non-common tools? im gonna need Install Kits right? but do i have to get those expensive-a$$ Master ones? OUCH!! don't know if it matters but my truck has about 93,000 miles on it.

thnx guys, anyone up for a Wrenchathon in the SC area :( :D

Has this 'friend' ever done Yota gears? If not I would find a gear shop. there have been plenty of horror stories here in the last few years...

I noticed 35s are your eventual goal. If so, you might want to reconsider those 4.30s and go straight on to 4.88s.
My '00 came stock with 4.30s and I regeared to 4.56s with 33s and should have listened to my neighbor's 4.88s suggestion (I have them now). 4.30s and 33s with the 2.7 is "ok" but it ain't great and won't work for 35s.

As for the install kit. don't even bother with the "mini" kit; get the master kit with that many miles on your truck, no question. The chances of blowing the diffs with worn bearings is a real possibility and has been know to happen. spend the extra few bucks now or spend 10x that amount later.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BigBadBob0 said:
You could probably get away with using the same bearings you have in the truck now and not buy the master rebuild because your truck doesn't have -that- many miles. You'll need some RTV to seal things back up. A torque wrench. Some loc-tite. A backlash measuring device (dial caliper or something). You may also need shims, or whatever it is our rear/front ends use to get the pattern right.

Google around, the answers are out there and google will help you find them.
yeah almost forgot about shims, thnx........well i didn't forget but that just highlighted the importance of them.

backlash measuring device.....have heard of this and thnx for the reminder.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hytenor said:
Has this 'friend' ever done Yota gears? If not I would find a gear shop. there have been plenty of horror stories here in the last few years...

I noticed 35s are your eventual goal. If so, you might want to reconsider those 4.30s and go straight on to 4.88s.
My '00 came stock with 4.30s and I regeared to 4.56s with 33s and should have listened to my neighbor's 4.88s suggestion (I have them now). 4.30s and 33s with the 2.7 is "ok" but it ain't great and won't work for 35s.

As for the install kit. don't even bother with the "mini" kit; get the master kit with that many miles on your truck, no question. The chances of blowing the diffs with worn bearings is a real possibility and has been know to happen. spend the extra few bucks now or spend 10x that amount later.
well im not dead set on using this friend of mine for help, i do have another friend/acquaintence on the backburner......he is a highly trained ASE Toyota Mechanic but he does side work for $ so we'll see how much he's gonna charge.

you're gearing needs seem to be alot different than mine. i've looked at just about every gearing/tire chart on the internet and they all tell me that 4.30's(4.27) are a dead on match up for stock power with 33's. and it still shows as just slightly less with 35's. now even if the chart isn't ENTIRELY accurate i figure it's at least good for comparison purposes and as a comparison....... 4.30's and 35's and especially 4.30's and 33's is a good deal better than 3.58's and 31's....... for me the 3.58's and 31's have been tolerable, even with the wider track of an 8 inch rim.

as much as i'd like to call myself a "full-time" off-roader.....im just not, not enough time and money(YET) :eek: :D

i do appreciate the concern though. thank you for the tips.
i may just end up saving up for that master install kit after all................ i may not be power hungry but I AM sensible. :D

in a perfect world i would get the 4.56's BUT a good deal on some 4.30's will be JUST FINE for me........anything but those 3.58's.
 

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4x4Dragon said:
well im not dead set on using this friend of mine for help, i do have another friend/acquaintence on the backburner......he is a highly trained ASE Toyota Mechanic but he does side work for $ so we'll see how much he's gonna charge.

you're gearing needs seem to be alot different than mine. i've looked at just about every gearing/tire chart on the internet and they all tell me that 4.30's(4.27) are a dead on match up for stock power with 33's. and it still shows as just slightly less with 35's. now even if the chart isn't ENTIRELY accurate i figure it's at least good for comparison purposes and as a comparison....... 4.30's and 35's and especially 4.30's and 33's is a good deal better than 3.58's and 31's....... for me the 3.58's and 31's have been tolerable, even with the wider track of an 8 inch rim.

as much as i'd like to call myself a "full-time" off-roader.....im just not, not enough time and money(YET) :eek: :D

i do appreciate the concern though. thank you for the tips.
i may just end up saving up for that master install kit after all................ i may not be power hungry but I AM sensible. :D

in a perfect world i would get the 4.56's BUT a good deal on some 4.30's will be JUST FINE for me........anything but those 3.58's.
Hey man, I am running 4.88's with 35's and I have a V6. Fifth gear is still sluggish on big hills. I kinda wish I would have went with 5.29's. You should really consider going to 4.88's cause you only want to have to do it once...
 

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Id get the Yota guy to show you how. The non TRD's take spacers form Toyota, and the shims in the master kits are there for looks. Make set up bearings our of your old stuff, and practice making patterns. Ive done about 6 now, and I still think this is one of the more qwerkier 3rds to set up. Murderman helped me on my first setup, watch out sometimes youll get wrong info off the net.... I know its hard to believe.

Good Luck
 

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4x4Dragon said:
well im not dead set on using this friend of mine for help, i do have another friend/acquaintence on the backburner......he is a highly trained ASE Toyota Mechanic but he does side work for $ so we'll see how much he's gonna charge.

you're gearing needs seem to be alot different than mine. i've looked at just about every gearing/tire chart on the internet and they all tell me that 4.30's(4.27) are a dead on match up for stock power with 33's. and it still shows as just slightly less with 35's. now even if the chart isn't ENTIRELY accurate i figure it's at least good for comparison purposes and as a comparison....... 4.30's and 35's and especially 4.30's and 33's is a good deal better than 3.58's and 31's....... for me the 3.58's and 31's have been tolerable, even with the wider track of an 8 inch rim.

as much as i'd like to call myself a "full-time" off-roader.....im just not, not enough time and money(YET) :eek: :D

i do appreciate the concern though. thank you for the tips.
i may just end up saving up for that master install kit after all................ i may not be power hungry but I AM sensible. :D

in a perfect world i would get the 4.56's BUT a good deal on some 4.30's will be JUST FINE for me........anything but those 3.58's.
gear/tire combinations for 2.7 Tacomas, 4x4 and prerunner:

Gen I trucks came with 3.58 or 3.42 gears and 225 size tires (28s) and 205 size tires respectively.
some Gen I trucks got 235s and 4.10 or 3.91s depending on tranny with the 4.10s going with the ATs.
Gen II trucks started getting 4.10/3.91 gears and 235 size tires (29").
Some AT equiped trucks got 265 size tires and 4.56 gears.
Later Gen IIs started getting 4.30s (manual tranny) and 4.56s (AT) and 265 size tires.
Some prerunner ATs with 265s wound up with 4.30s
Gen III trucks for the most part are 4.30 with manual and 4.56 with AT unless they were originally designated for 235 tires in which case they got 4.10/3.91s.

your chart would be correct for the 3.4l v6 but not for the 2.7.
Since all v6 Tacos have 4.10s (all TRDs and ATs) or 3.91s (manual, non TRD) going to a 33" tire and 4.30 gears would give an 'adjusted' ratio of 4.04:1 or right around stock. For 35s and a v6, 4.56s will bring you back to near stock at 4.04:1. In my opinion Toyota should have used 4.30 gearing on the v6 ATs and 4.10s on the 5-spds as this ratio/tire and engine combo seems to do better overall (trail/street). but that is just my opinion.

With the v6 the 4.30/33" combo is a 'stock' equivalent.

For the 2.7 the 'stock' equivalent is 4.56/33 for the 5-sp and 4.88/33 for the AT. for 35" tires the closest 'stock' equivalent will be 4.88/5-sp and 5.29/AT.

calculations by using the 'calculators' on the NE site.

all that BS asside the 4.30/33" combo on your truck will seem like a dream compared to your old 3.58/31s :D

Make sure your Toyota tech has actually done gear setups; most of them haven't as Toyota doesn't do gears anymore...they just replace complete diffs and 3rd members....or so my local service mgr tells me.

depending on where you are and what labor rates are there, regearing should run around $150-250/diff if you take in the diff/3rd. If you just drop off the truck figure $600 and up. Rates around here are a joke at $105/hr so I go out (way out) of town for stuff like that. Make sure to replace the rear axle seals while you're at it, about $14.

for master install kits go with PORC http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/ for the best prices. Even if you do, by chance, find gears or install kits cheaper they will beat it. just mention ttora and pirate 4x4.
just specify either rear-locker (e-locker, 8" ) or no-locker 8.4". for the rear; the fronts are all the same
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so you would suggest the Timken kit?
 

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4x4Dragon said:
so you would suggest the Timken kit?
does Timkin make install kits? ...don't know. I used Yukon master install kits for my last regear. Timkin does make the bearings in the Yukon kits, however. You also need a new crush sleave as well as new ring bolts which are included in the master kits along with all bearings.
 

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hytenor said:
does Timkin make install kits? ...don't know. I used Yukon master install kits for my last regear. Timkin does make the bearings in the Yukon kits, however. You also need a new crush sleave as well as new ring bolts which are included in the master kits along with all bearings.
Chris,

here is what he is talking about..
PORC Page

To original poster: Call and talk to Alex or Bobby. They can get you what you need.
 

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ATLRoach said:
Chris,

here is what he is talking about..
PORC Page

To original poster: Call and talk to Alex or Bobby. They can get you what you need.
interesting that their page doesn't list the mfg. The Yukons that I got from Alex had the 'T-100/Tacoma' front gears/install kit and the 'non-locker' gears/install for the rear. The ring gears were stamped with 'TAC 4.88". Its those darn e-locker kits that are a pain to match up ;)
 

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PORC guys are top notch, All I heard was good things about them. I went to their shop in Athens to have my gears installed. I'll tell you these guys are just plain awesome. Alex is one of the nicest and honest guys that I have ever met. If you can get you the part you need/want he will find someone that can.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
one other thing, i know i need to get a master(overhaul) kit for the rear due to higher mileage but what about the front? i haven't used the 4wd very much at all and im quite sure that the front has low mileage al-together. couldn't i just get a basic install kit or something for the front?
 

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4x4Dragon said:
one other thing, i know i need to get a master(overhaul) kit for the rear due to higher mileage but what about the front? i haven't used the 4wd very much at all and im quite sure that the front has low mileage al-together. couldn't i just get a basic install kit or something for the front?
good point on the front and I think the front mini kits are around $25. I assume with the '96 you have manual hubs...but, if ADD then you'll need the master kit...everything turns with ADD.
the mini front kit comes with the crush sleave and you can re-use the ring bolts or get a set from your dealer or trdparts4u.com. I got the master kit for mine just cuz I'm anal ;) When researching regearing I kept reading that its better to have all the parts that you might need just in case rather than find out you really needed that one bearing once you get the thing torn down.
 
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