Point here being, Deaver is the bee's knees. I don't know whats good about the knees of a bee, but from what I gather its definitely awesome.Stance wise it's sitting perfect now!!! It brought the rear back up to where the 50T pack was. Performance wise, I won't be able to comment till 10/19 as that's the next time the truck will be in the dirt. Although, I will likely take it for a spin around da hood tonight! LOL Street testing... You know how we do it...
I realize this is an old post, but I'll respond anyway so it is not left unanswered.Question for you guys, Ive cycled leafs before and done some fab work, just never installed leafs from scratch, Im going to be installing some F67's on my 99 Extra cab taco next month, using a probably 16" bypass or 18" Not sure. 12" Shackles on top of the frame, and a tundra axle. I know the 52.50 spread. And Making sure the shackle angles. My question is how do I do centering the axle , and making sure everything is straight and true so It drives straight and so I dont go messing something up? Such as for one placing both front hangers in the right place
I disagree. I've built multiple leaf sprung trucks using the Deaver f67s and 50t and those similar. Using up all of the travel of the 18" shocks is easy and very useful. to use a 16" shock you would have to angle the shock much more creating a lower resistance of compression. the angle of your shock should not be your method of valving. Placing your shocks at a 90 degree angle off of the datum line (imaginary line going from the front hanger mounting point to the point where the shackle mounts to the frame) is the best possible option you have for maximum travel and full use of the shock.16" shocks are plenty, you don't need the 18" inch ones, just my 2 cents. You need to mock up the front hangars and shackle pivots and the spring perches on the axle all at the same time and tack them on. During this you will need to set your pinion angle as well,
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk