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Discussion Starter #1
ok, so after I replaced the drivers side axle seal, it's started to leak gear oil again, ER. The passenger side is still sealed correctly. So obviously two things: diff breather no good, or wheel baring no good. Which do you think? I'm leaning towards baring. Does anyone who has replaced that remember how much it was? I have access to a large press, so I just need the cost for the part... Do you think it would also be wise to replace the breather just in case? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jade said:
The breather is easy and cheap. I'm a fan of doing the easy/cheap solutions first.
sure it's cheap and easy, but if it's not the right solution it means another toasted axle seal. Thanks, but noooooo thanks.
 

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If the breather is clogged, I would think that it would leak out of both sides, not just one side, but who knows? To test the breather, just unscrew it and blow through it. If air comes out, then it's fine. If not, then it's clogged. I think a new one costs about $7 (or was it $15?).

To change the wheel bearing, you'll need to also replace the wheel bearing retainer, which can be difficult to remove without a press. Whatever you do, don't torch off the retainer unless you have no other choice. The heat will cause the steel molecules to expand, making it difficult if not impossible to re-install the axle back in the diff carrier (I speak from experience - I had to lay the axle in ice overnight to get the steel to contract so it would go back in).

One other thing to check is the O-ring that goes on the end of the axle around where the rear axle seal goes. It's often overlooked when changing the rear axle seal because it's hard to see. But old ones can still be re-used if they're still good. Even so, I don't know if a bad one would cause a leak, but who knows?

Unfortunately, I don't remember how much the wheel bearings were when I changed mine. I think I got them at NAPA, though. You might want to check Chris and Barb and TRDPARTS4U.com for them - they're OEM and are probably cheaper than the NAPA ones.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately I need the new baring like yesterday, haha! I have access to a press, but no sst to remove it. so I think i'll be doing the slam it on the ground method :\

I at least need a new axle seal, so i'll be heading down to get one of those, and I'll see how much everything else is I guess...

Thanks for the infomative reply! :)
 

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atwinda said:
Unfortunately I need the new baring like yesterday, haha! I have access to a press, but no sst to remove it. so I think i'll be doing the slam it on the ground method :\

I at least need a new axle seal, so i'll be heading down to get one of those, and I'll see how much everything else is I guess...

Thanks for the infomative reply! :)
The shop I took it to also tried the slamming method, but it didn't work. All it did was cause the splined end to mushroom. Took me several hours to file it down back into shape. So we torched it off. If you try the slamming method, make sure you get some good files before-hand in case it mushrooms. Also, do one side at a time so you can use the other axle as a guide in case you forget which way the bearing retainer goes in - yes, it's possible to put it in backwards - again, I speak from experience.
 

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do you mean wheel BEARING??????
jk
why don't you get what you need, foriegn auto parts store or just Toyota
have a Toy tech use their SST and just perform that operation and then you put it back in your rear end LOL
couldn't resist
 
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