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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am posting this for 3 reasons:
-I need old e-lockers for spare parts
-educate y’all on the e-locker
-hopefully get a few people to use my services, which are cheap compared to the 710 Toyota of Greensburg quoted me for a new e-locker actuator motor.

The story goes I bought a TRD v6 Tacoma, this is number three for me as I have had a 97 std cab SAS truck, I ran around in hardtaco's old rig, and now the first TRD Tacoma I have ever owned.

So I get my truck, push that beautiful lil' button and it just stays in the slow flash state forever. Hmmm, so I did the gray wire mod thinking that it would magically fix itself, but to no avail.

Finally after researching CustomTacos, tacoterritory, and a Toyota break down of the goodies inside, I ripped that little POS apart. I made a list of all that was bad with mine, most of my problems were due to the fact the guy I bought my truck off, never used the 4x4 or the locker.

So here is my list of what can happen and what I will fix while rebuilding Taco E-lockers.

-the gentle tapping I see mentioned a lot, well frankly I knocked my electric motor's magnet loose from a few gentle taps, with a 5 lb drilling rig hammer. :xsmash: :xsmash:

-if you do pull the electric motor case apart, and the brushes shoot out of the motor plate, don't worrie, they are attached as all brushes have a wire connecting them to the motor plate, but the little springs that push the brushes to the com, they will fly away, so watch for them.

-once out and the case is split, make sure your gear has all it's teeth, mine looked like new.

-the main pin that runs through the gear and the springs need to spin freely in the case half, mine was gaulded to the bushing.

-any rust on the motor stator has to be cleaned, mine was so old that it has fused itself to a magnet by literally rusting itself to the magnet.

-and finally there is the limit switch, it is what allows current to the motor and also stops the motor. There is an offset-cut plate that makes contact and breaks contact according to the position that the gear and motor are in.
(power runs through the limit switch when you press the button or depress the button, it is always on, but when you press the button it is set in reverse so that the computer runs from limit to limit)

So with that said, I have recently started to re-build E-lockers. Basically clean them out, check the bushing surfaces, the motor brushes, the 3 point limit switch, limit switch surface, the dual helper springs that pull the motor from the lock or unlock state, the magnets, and the o-rings.

I was going to do a write-up, but if you don't have spare parts, there is no way to fix it, and being that I am only charging 75.00 to fix it, test it, and even toss a warranty on it. I also will add oil to the actuator; factory is just a coating of grease. RTV silicon and new o-rings.

With that being said, I will also buy broken e-lockers, so if you have any, email me or post a message and I will get back to you and hopefully purchase a few to get things running.

Email me with your address and price so I can figure the shipping cost. If getting broken e-lockers becomes a problem, I will still offer re-builds, but all parts replaced with factory parts, if they even offer them. Brushes I can get from the toy store, o-rings from parts stores, and the limit switch is rebuildable.

Hope this or I can help, MC
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