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I bought 4 Hella rocklights for really cheap (8.50 a piece) and want to install them to run off of one switch. I know that I need a relay to make this work but I have no clue as to how to make it work or what kind of relay is needed. I am assuming that there will be 4 separate sets of wires. So I would need a relay that has an input for the switch and 4 outputs for the lights? Thanks in advance.
 

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cooper4x4 said:
I bought 4 Hella rocklights for really cheap (8.50 a piece) and want to install them to run off of one switch. I know that I need a relay to make this work but I have no clue as to how to make it work or what kind of relay is needed. I am assuming that there will be 4 separate sets of wires. So I would need a relay that has an input for the switch and 4 outputs for the lights? Thanks in advance.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/articles/aux lights, wiring/
a couple basic aux light wiring diagrams.

to run all 4, the suggestion of having 2 relays is good. I have mine run on two switches/relays, one right side, one left but one switch and two relays will work just as well. you don't have to have 4 complete sets of wires; you can run each side in a series (2/line). I ran a lead of 12g down the frame rail and then 'pig-tailed' off it with 16g leads to each light. I only have 2 lights/side but wired it up to add 1 more each side if I want to. The light base in contack with bare metal acts as the ground so you don't have to run wires for that.

hopefully that made sense ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hytenor said:
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/articles/aux lights, wiring/
a couple basic aux light wiring diagrams.

to run all 4, the suggestion of having 2 relays is good. I have mine run on two switches/relays, one right side, one left but one switch and two relays will work just as well. you don't have to have 4 complete sets of wires; you can run each side in a series (2/line). I ran a lead of 12g down the frame rail and then 'pig-tailed' off it with 16g leads to each light. I only have 2 lights/side but wired it up to add 1 more each side if I want to. The light base in contack with bare metal acts as the ground so you don't have to run wires for that.

hopefully that made sense ;)
how do you connect the two relays to run them to one switch?
 

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cooper4x4 said:
how do you connect the two relays to run them to one switch?
Individually a relay has a connector that goes to the switch
Youre just connecting each of those wires to a single switch
Think of your connecting wire as a "Y".
The "Y" will connect the two relays to the single switch
The branches of the "Y" go to each of the relays, while the base goes to the switch
 

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Discussion Starter #6
grillmasterp said:
Individually a relay has a connector that goes to the switch
Youre just connecting each of those wires to a single switch
Think of your connecting wire as a "Y".
The "Y" will connect the two relays to the single switch
The branches of the "Y" go to each of the relays, while the base goes to the switch
So I need to splice into one wire to connect the 2 relays? Like you said, make it into a y. thanks phong. now I just need to find a good fuse box for all my accessories.
 

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cooper4x4 said:
how do you connect the two relays to run them to one switch?
Referring to the attached diagram:

Run fused power to your switch and from the switch (green wire) to terminal 86 on each relay. This can be relatively light gauge wire - depends on the distance.

Run power from a fused 12v source (red wire) to terminal 87 on each relay. This must be heavier gauge wire, appropriate to carry the load for 4 lights the required distance.

Run a wire from terminal 30 on each relay (purple wire) to your lights. Size these wires to carry the load for 2 lights the required distance.

Ground terminals 85 on each relay and your lights to chassis ground.

Wire selection example: You might pick 18 ga wire for the switch & coil wiring (green), 12 ga wire for the common power (red), and 16 ga wire for the power to each set of lights (purple). Again, it will depend on the wattage of your lights and the length of the wire.
 

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grillmasterp said:
Individually a relay has a connector that goes to the switch
Youre just connecting each of those wires to a single switch
Think of your connecting wire as a "Y".
The "Y" will connect the two relays to the single switch
The branches of the "Y" go to each of the relays, while the base goes to the switch
hey man,
ok, sounds like you know a lil bit about relays. i've got an aux fuse block that i use for accessories such as lights. it doesn't have a relay for it. if you can imagine this, the fuse box is a sqaure, it's got 4 outputs on each side w/ the tabs to hook the wire to. then it's got 1 hook up where you can put the power wire for the battery. instead of having like 8 differrent relays, how can I hook up just 1 or 2 big relays? If you can't exactly picture what I'm talking about, it's kinda like 1 of the painless set ups, just not relay off to the side. Thanx, Wes
 

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cooper4x4 said:
how do you connect the two relays to run them to one switch?
each relay will have male connectors for: Battery, ground, lights and switch. some of them have 2 tabs for lights but all you need is the type with the 4 tabs, often labeled as 85 or ground, 86 or to the switch, 87 to the lights, and 30 to the battery. So, you'll have 1 battery power lead (30) from each relay, 1 ground wire (85) from each relay to somewhere on the body,1 lead from each relay to each bank of lights (87). Then you'll have 1 lighter guage wire from each relay to the one switch (86) connected together at the switch. Also from the switch you'll have one wire going to a power source which can be any 'hot' lead like the parking light, or whatever wire that is tied into the ignition switch to be 'hot', or, you can go directly to the battery if you want to be able to run them w/o having your headlight/parking lights or any other ignition-switched accessories on. some switches will have a ground tab but not all.

both the main power lead and the relay ground need to be the same large guage. The light leads should be the same as those. I use 12g for each of these. The switch wires and the 'hot' lead wire from the switch can be a lighter guage since they don't carry much amperage, 16g is fine.

make sense?
 

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hytenor said:
So, you'll have 1 battery power lead (30) from each relay, 1 ground wire (85) from each relay to somewhere on the body,1 lead from each relay to each bank of lights (87).
Good writeup. Only thing I would say different is swap is the power and load leads if you're not using the NC contacts (87a) on mobile electronics. Reason is when 30 is connected to constant power, 87a will be 'hot' whenever the switch is OFF. It can be insulated and whatnot but stuff can shift around or get wet in/on a vehicle. I just use 87 for power and 30 for load so 87a is never hot on a circuit like this.

Just something to consider, it'll work either way. :D
 

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flatlandtacoma said:
Good writeup. Only thing I would say different is swap is the power and load leads if you're not using the NC contacts (87a) on mobile electronics. Reason is when 30 is connected to constant power, 87a will be 'hot' whenever the switch is OFF. It can be insulated and whatnot but stuff can shift around or get wet in/on a vehicle. I just use 87 for power and 30 for load so 87a is never hot on a circuit like this.

Just something to consider, it'll work either way. :D
what about with relays that only have one '87' tab? I've used both types of relays used with my accessories. I always assumed that the relays with 2 #87 tabs were for each of the 2 lights rather than like the single '87' tab relays where both lights plug into that one tab.

this sounds interesting. do you then need a certain type of relay to do this?
 

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wslytoy said:
hey man,
ok, sounds like you know a lil bit about relays. i've got an aux fuse block that i use for accessories such as lights. it doesn't have a relay for it. if you can imagine this, the fuse box is a sqaure, it's got 4 outputs on each side w/ the tabs to hook the wire to. then it's got 1 hook up where you can put the power wire for the battery. instead of having like 8 differrent relays, how can I hook up just 1 or 2 big relays? If you can't exactly picture what I'm talking about, it's kinda like 1 of the painless set ups, just not relay off to the side. Thanx, Wes
Hmm, I don't know that you can do that. (doesn't mean you can't, just that I've never heard of it ;)
The aux fuse panel that I have has a 6g wire from the battery; no relay is used. I do need to add an in-line 80a fuse, however, but haven't gotten around to doing so. Each aux system (lights, compressor, etc.) has its own relay and fuse.
 

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hytenor said:
Hmm, I don't know that you can do that. (doesn't mean you can't, just that I've never heard of it ;)
The aux fuse panel that I have has a 6g wire from the battery; no relay is used. I do need to add an in-line 80a fuse, however, but haven't gotten around to doing so. Each aux system (lights, compressor, etc.) has its own relay and fuse.

ok, well that's cool, I was just wondering if there'd be anyway to kinda "clean it up" w/ 1 relay. BTW, I've only got like a 30a fuse for my inline fuse to the battery. Do I need something larger? Thanx, Wes
 

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hytenor said:
what about with relays that only have one '87' tab? I've used both types of relays used with my accessories. I always assumed that the relays with 2 #87 tabs were for each of the 2 lights rather than like the single '87' tab relays where both lights plug into that one tab.

this sounds interesting. do you then need a certain type of relay to do this?
87a is the standard # for normally closed (NC) contact. 87a contacts are closed when the coil is de-energized. If your relay doesn't have an 87a connection then I guess it doesn't matter.
 

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wslytoy said:
ok, well that's cool, I was just wondering if there'd be anyway to kinda "clean it up" w/ 1 relay. BTW, I've only got like a 30a fuse for my inline fuse to the battery. Do I need something larger? Thanx, Wes
you should be using an inline fuse that is rated for the sub-panel's capacity. Mine is 80a with a 6g wire so I need a 80a fuse. Find out what yours is rated for, use the correct wire guage and inline fuse for that rating. the whole idea of using a sub-panel is so you don't a dozen wires coming off your + battery terminal ;)
 

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hytenor said:
you should be using an inline fuse that is rated for the sub-panel's capacity. Mine is 80a with a 6g wire so I need a 80a fuse. Find out what yours is rated for, use the correct wire guage and inline fuse for that rating. the whole idea of using a sub-panel is so you don't a dozen wires coming off your + battery terminal ;)
yeah, I've only got 2 wires, besides the stock battery cable off. 1 wire is the fuse box, and the other is for my aftermarket power locks. I'll look and see what gauge wiring and fuse I need. Thanx man, Wes
 
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