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Discussion Starter #1
Any write ups on how to do this? I need to remove mine to install my ARB locker, and I dont know how. I here that all i need to do is remove the oil, and unbolt the thing, but which bolts? And also, do I need to mark anything, I dont want to insert this thing back in worng, and start to drive away and screw something up? I need help, I know nothing about this.
 

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Have you RTTFM? If not the skinny is you gotta pull your shafts unbolt it and pull it out, oh and drain your oil first. Are you going to install the ARB yourself, and set up the gears?

Is yours a non TRD? the gear setup on these isnt user friendly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All I am doing is removing the third memeber to take it into a 4 wheel shop to add my locker in. Its cheaper that way. So I need to unbolt the drive shaft, drain the oil, but dont I have to remove all the boly on the diff to pull out the third? Any one know? or have pics or diagrams. I have my Haynes manual, but have not seen where to do this. Its a NON TRD axle. The rear.
 

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Deal Master
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Blacksheep said:
All I am doing is removing the third memeber to take it into a 4 wheel shop to add my locker in. Its cheaper that way. So I need to unbolt the drive shaft, drain the oil, but dont I have to remove all the boly on the diff to pull out the third? Any one know? or have pics or diagrams. I have my Haynes manual, but have not seen where to do this. Its a NON TRD axle. The rear.
That sounds better- from your original posts- sounded like you were going to tackle the ARB with ....lets just say limited knowledge....based upon your questions.

-Drain Rear diff fluid.
-Support truck via rear axle
-remove wheels
-isconnect parking brake at each drum
-disconnect rear hard brakelines at drum using 10mm flare wrench- try to cap the hard line to prevent brake fluid from emptying reservoir
-Unbolt 4 bolts on the back plate of the drum
-remove rear axle shafts
- Mark the location of the rear driveshaft * pinion flange before removal unbolting ...Unbolt the 4 bolts and separate shaft & flange - use wire hanger or something to suspend rear drive shaft

remove all (10?) nuts around the 3rd member
OK - The 3rd member is F'n Heavy !- Get something underneath
(wood blocks, mechanic creeper) pull it out carefully & watch your fingers

A 5 gallon pain bucket is ideal to transport the diff

-GrillmasterP
 

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I remember when I removed my third member.... my pants used to fit like a glove, now they fit more like a sock

Boheefus
 

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wut?
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Boheefus said:
I remember when I removed my third member.... my pants used to fit like a glove, now they fit more like a sock

Boheefus

I bet your girlfriend, or wife, or gay lover didn’t notice any difference.
 

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grillmasterp described it very well, the only thing I would add is that you don't have to remove your wheels if you don't want. It doesn't hurt if you do, just one extra step...

If you can beg, borrow, or steal a brake line clamp (designed to pinch off the rubber hose) I would highly recomend it. It saves a lot of break fluid and makes bleeding the breaks much easier.

All and all it shouldn't take longer than an hour to do the whole job.
 

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Deal Master
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AK95Taco said:
grillmasterp described it very well, the only thing I would add is that you don't have to remove your wheels if you don't want. It doesn't hurt if you do, just one extra step...
Damn that's alot of extra weight- lol
The way I see it - I have less chance to damage the rear seals when putting the axle back with the wheels off.
 

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Going John Galt
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Blacksheep said:
Any write ups on how to do this? I need to remove mine to install my ARB locker, and I dont know how. I here that all i need to do is remove the oil, and unbolt the thing, but which bolts? And also, do I need to mark anything, I dont want to insert this thing back in worng, and start to drive away and screw something up? I need help, I know nothing about this.
what Grillmaster said ;)
After you get those nuts off the 3rd will still be sealed to the axle casing so you usually have to wack it (carefully) with a big hammer to "crack" it loose.
ditto on not having to remove the wheels and you might as well replace the axle seals while you're at it for around $14.
make sure to clean/scrape off all the gasket material. Use good quality gasket goop on install.

When you go to re-install be careful of the ARB air line...you'll see when you get it ;)

use Loctite on the driveshaft bolts/nuts!!! (ask David Hale about that :eek: )

I tend to use blue Loctite on most everything I loosen.
 

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There is no sense fighting access to the brake stuff with the damn wheels/tires in the way. Also removes some of the chance of wrecking the seals. It is better to remove the wheels if you're not out on the trail doing an emergency repair or something.
 

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grillmasterp said:
Damn that's alot of extra weight- lol
The way I see it - I have less chance to damage the rear seals when putting the axle back with the wheels off.
Hmm, good point. If you have big 35s or something that would really make more sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks A Million guys. I will pick up a New Rear Seal for the axle, and locktite blue right, its like a semi-perminent? I will be glad to get this whole thing done already. Thanks again everyone for all the good pointers.
 

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Blacksheep said:
Thanks A Million guys. I will pick up a New Rear Seal for the axle, and locktite blue right, its like a semi-perminent? I will be glad to get this whole thing done already. Thanks again everyone for all the good pointers.
yea, blue and axle seals, plural, one for each side. They're around $7 ea.
 

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check out my hi-jacking skills...
Is the above process, as described by grillmasterp, essentially how one would swap in an elocker, if they could find a donor (like if I managed to score a complete elocking 3rd member with gears matching what I have)? I know there's also some wiring involved, but mechanically, would it be that simple?
 

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ianshoots said:
check out my hi-jacking skills...
Is the above process, as described by grillmasterp, essentially how one would swap in an elocker, if they could find a donor (like if I managed to score a complete elocking 3rd member with gears matching what I have)? I know there's also some wiring involved, but mechanically, would it be that simple?
the two axles are completely different and parts are NOT interchangeble. The only way to swap in the e-locker to a non-TRD truck is to swap the complete axle, drum to drum AND run the wiring/switch.

Depending on availability/condition you an pick one up at a wrecking yard for $500-$800+
Most of us just add an ARB and compressor. The non-TRD 8.4 is actually a stronger rear end.
 

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concussed
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if you loosen the hard line clamps,you can pull the axels out far enough without disconnecting the brake line.then you wont need to bleed brakes afterwards.
 

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KRYPTO(dale) said:
if you loosen the hard line clamps,you can pull the axels out far enough without disconnecting the brake line.then you wont need to bleed brakes afterwards.
pretty slick. you should add this to the 'cheap tricks' section :D
 
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