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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to remove my weld on sliders so I can remove my body lift. While they are off I am planning on moving them in toward the body somewhat (1"-1.5"). Should I cut them off with a sawzall to seperate them from the mounting plates or should I grind the mounting plates off and seperate them once they are on the ground?

Basically I want the easiest way to get the sliders off the frame so I can modifiy them at a later date.
 

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GreenTaco4x4 said:
I am going to remove my weld on sliders so I can remove my body lift. While they are off I am planning on moving them in toward the body somewhat (1"-1.5"). Should I cut them off with a sawzall to seperate them from the mounting plates or should I grind the mounting plates off and seperate them once they are on the ground?

Basically I want the easiest way to get the sliders off the frame so I can modifiy them at a later date.

Leave the plates on the frame, cut off the legs with a sawzall, but try to keep the legs the same length (cut each one off as close to the frame as you can get) Grind off what you didn't get with the sawzall, cut whatever length you want off the legs, and reweld them to the plates, add some gussets, repeat.

--Scott
 

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x2. I'm about to have this done, so since my scab plates don't extend to the bottom of the frame I purchased some TrailGear scab plates because for $25 bux I figure it will save me some money when I get them rewelded on. They'll need to be cut to go around my old scabs but that's still less work.
 

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I change my body height all the time...DOH :rolleyes:
 

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Dick Foster said:
Too bad they werent bolt on, huh? LOL
You guys crack me up.
haha thats funny!

my sliders will still be weld on when i get the funds :cool:
 

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Dick Foster said:
Too bad they werent bolt on, huh? LOL
You guys crack me up.
Im with you Dick, bolt on makes much more sense. I sold my old Demello bolt ons, unbolt sell...

Building a new set of bolt ons to replace them with. Something that is designed to be expendable should not be welded to your rig. Properly desinged bolt ons are just as strong as weld ons if not stronger.

The only valid reason for weld ons is that they are cheaper.

( I probably just started chapter 1001 of the "Great Slider Debate" but I dont care.
 

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mojavehanna said:
Something that is designed to be expendable should not be welded to your rig.
Let me know when you find a bolt on exo.
 

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hawaiianbro said:
Let me know when you find a bolt on exo.
LOL... now that'd be a trick

:Weld-on/Bolt-on sliders... wgasa... as long as something's on... ;) :
 

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cut the sliders off at the plates and then take the plates off. i speak from experience. you gotta kind of pry the plates off and it would be hard to when the sliders are still on IMO
 

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Bolt on exo-cage?

U shaped frame brackets with bolts accross the top of the frame, strut tubing out past the body. Hand fit exocage, cut it off about 4-6 inches up as the exocage travels up the side of the vehicle, sleeve the junctions about 8-9 inches ie 4-5 inches past the junction on each side. Put pins on both ends of the sleeves. May have to tweak and grease it a bit to make it easy on and off.

If you roll it/ use the exocage, don't expect it to come off without a hoist/ winch or blow torch. however if you cut off a few inches above the sleeves it should be easy to remove it, rebuild it and put it back togather. :D

Wally
 

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So you want to remove the sliders and have then not stick out as far?

Why dont you cut the tubes at around center and weld in a 'sleeve' on either the slider end or the frame end and make them removable like a class 3 hitch?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So one side is off. Since I am going back to school tommorrow I am going to leave the pass side one on until I can make it home.

I ended up using a saw on the tubing and the grinder to get through the gussets. 4 blades and one 4.5" disc later it just needs to be gound smooth for when they get welded back on. Tried to get the plates off, on one mount, and its a pain in the ass. So the plates are staying on, need to grind them down a bit where the tubs welded to them and then some stick up above the frame rail, and then they are gettign welded back on with new gussets.
 

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GreenTaco4x4 said:
So one side is off. Since I am going back to school tommorrow I am going to leave the pass side one on until I can make it home.

. 4 blades and one 4.5" disc later it just needs to be gound smooth for when they get welded back on.
you need different blades. i just used two sawzall blades to chop off my IFS. and i really only would have used one but i stupidly bent one by not waiting until the saw was done moving. use "THE TORCH" blades by Millwake they are by far the best for steel.

the one i bent is still in good shape if I rebend it but it was hot and i bought a five pack. the other one still looks brand new except for the paint being gone. if i was to remove my sliders it would take about 2 minutes and not even dill the blade and mine are 3/16 2x2.

they are not cheap $5 a peice but worth every penny. :2cents:
 

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hawaiianbro said:
Let me know when you find a bolt on exo.
It could done with slip tubes or tube clamps, but once again it wouldnt be cheap, easy, or very practical in most cases. Dont get me wrong welding is great for many things but it is rather permanent.
 
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