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Discussion Starter #1
I have done cv's and they wernt hard for me at all, just takes time. is the process of removing the diff any more challenging?

i should rephrase....once the cv's are out is it a pain in the ass to remove the front diff or is it something that will just come out once unbolted?

does the steering rack have to be messed with in anyways?
 

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get an extra set of hands to hold it in place. don't thnk the rack has to be messed with. not very difficult at all
 

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it comes out and goes in pretty easily. some help would be good because it's not light, but i'd say it's a 2/10 as far as difficulty goes (if you have the cv's off).
 

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I use a floor jack to support the diff so I don't loose control of it.

It can be a real pain to get it out. What I did the last time is unbolt the driver's side engine mount and lifted the engine a couple of inches and that gives you plenty of working room and it does not take long at all. It will save you a lot of time and frustration.

I did not do that the first time I did the front diff. I had two helpers and all three of us were really pissed off trying to get the diff out. The second time, I did it all by myself lifting the engine.
 

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Big thing to remember; drain it completely. You don't want to drop it out and get hit with oil. I didn't find it all that hard. It is heavy, and it is a tight fit. Getting the truck up in the air a bit helps. When putting it back in slide the flange up and in, get the stud over the cross member, and rotate it into place. It fits like a puzzle piece. If it gets stuck you can't force it. Just back off, look at what is hitting, adjust, and try again. When you have it right it will slide up an in easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sweet thanx for the tips guys. a friend and i are gonna tackle this on wed i hope. with the hopeful 300 bucks i am gonna save on labor i am gonna have to get a budbuilt skid plate or put the money towards sliders or something.
 

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The Dude said:
I have done cv's and they wernt hard for me at all, just takes time. is the process of removing the diff any more challenging?

i should rephrase....once the cv's are out is it a pain in the ass to remove the front diff or is it something that will just come out once unbolted?

does the steering rack have to be messed with in anyways?
for some reason the '01-04s are tougher to get out/in but the 2nd gen trucks like yours (and mine) are easier. It took about 20min for Jamie and I to get mine out and we only pulled one side's CV/spindle,etc, out of the way ;)

a real pita by yourself so get an extra set of hands!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea i am planning on it being a pain. but the cv shit which i can do sounds like the biggest pita of the whole ordeal. i am planning on it taking all day
 

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i got mine out and in very easily but make sure you tighten that rear bolt down to spec (maybe some loctite). My bolt actually got loose to the point of falling off and my drive shaft flange almost tore into my tranmission when i tried to engage 4WD.
 

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The Dude said:
sweet thanx for the tips guys. a friend and i are gonna tackle this on wed i hope. with the hopeful 300 bucks i am gonna save on labor i am gonna have to get a budbuilt skid plate or put the money towards sliders or something.
Well if your putting money into your diffs...id def go with a budbuilt! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
turns out the weather is gonna be really bad and shit and scheduling with friends isnt gonna work so i am just gonna have the dealership do it...

damn. i am still getting a bud built tho in the future
 

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i just did mine about 2-3 weeks ago. was a PITA to do by yourself. Definetely get someone to help. Pulling it out was simple. puting it back is totally a pITA unless ur the superman and can hold it up with one hand and put the bolts in with another. Have fun as I did and cursed all that i can ;)
 

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I also plan on replacing my front diff as well as the rear diff. Is there any complete writeups for both the front and rear. Ive looked at Parks and 4x4wire but they are not really thorough enough. I have an idea of how to do the rear... remove rear axles, pull off third, then replace everything in reverse order and bleed brakes. But the front is a little more complex and i wanna make sure i have a really good understanding before i jump under my truck. Dont wanna get suprised and then have to bring it somewhere. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry for the thread jack.
 

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clydeepants said:
I also plan on replacing my front diff as well as the rear diff. Is there any complete writeups for both the front and rear. Ive looked at Parks and 4x4wire but they are not really thorough enough. I have an idea of how to do the rear... remove rear axles, pull off third, then replace everything in reverse order and bleed brakes. But the front is a little more complex and i wanna make sure i have a really good understanding before i jump under my truck. Dont wanna get suprised and then have to bring it somewhere. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry for the thread jack.
front is really not that hard.
drain oil
pull the dr side axle (same procedure for replacing a busted CV ;))
unbolt the driveline from the diff
disconnect the breather line at the diff (can be a pain if you have big hands)
disconnect ADD vacume lines if you have that
get a tranny jack or something to support the diff under it
'pop' the pass side CV axle out so it is free of that C clip
remove rear mount bolt
remove the front mount bolts
pull the diff down and to the dr side to slide out that pass CV.

done.

took me and a friend 20 min to get mine out. and with no tranny jack :p
 

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Thanks Hytenor!

One more question, Do i need to replace anything while everything is off: CV clamps, boots..etc. I know the rear inner and outer axle seals may need to be replaced depending on their condition (oh do you need a special tool to remove the seals?).
 

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The Dude said:
I have done cv's and they wernt hard for me at all, just takes time. is the process of removing the diff any more challenging?

i should rephrase....once the cv's are out is it a pain in the ass to remove the front diff or is it something that will just come out once unbolted?

does the steering rack have to be messed with in anyways?
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/frontarb/frontarb.htm

At the bottom is where he takes out and replaces his front differential.
 

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clydeepants said:
Thanks Hytenor!

One more question, Do i need to replace anything while everything is off: CV clamps, boots..etc. I know the rear inner and outer axle seals may need to be replaced depending on their condition (oh do you need a special tool to remove the seals?).
rear outer seals are around $14/pr and pull right out/push right in with a few taps. The inner one you don't want to mess with unless it is bad...machine shop item. A simple seal puller is all you need...about a $6 tool from any parts house.

you "can" replace the two diff seals on the front (where the axles go in) but unless they have been leaking or you think you damaged them during tear-down I wouldn't bother. They are cheap and easy to change though.
It is always best to replace the little 'C' rings on the ends of the axles (diff side) but if they are in good shape they can be reused. ...again...a cheap item.
 

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mine sucked to pull out... I could not get the rear mount to clear the steering shaft and bellhousing. 3.4 auto trans. had to take the rear mount off. that sucked, crazy tight soaces and akward angles. also had to pull off the 2 front mount arm things.
It was not as easy for me as everyone says, there was no way to get around taking these things off.
 

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KyleT said:
mine sucked to pull out... I could not get the rear mount to clear the steering shaft and bellhousing. 3.4 auto trans. had to take the rear mount off. that sucked, crazy tight soaces and akward angles. also had to pull off the 2 front mount arm things.
It was not as easy for me as everyone says, there was no way to get around taking these things off.
hmm, guess having only 4 cylinders paid off :p
bummer on the v6s, I guess...just the autos or 5spds too?
 
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