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Discussion Starter #1
92 Pickup Extended Cab. 4" superlift. 33's. 4.88's.

I've decided on doing a SAS. 84-85 axle.

Should i go with the Marlin Kit or the Trail-Gear?

Why is Trail-Gear $500 chepaer?

Are there any other companies i need to know about?

Will i need to buy a seperate kit to do a complete rebuild of the axle.

How do i know how far back to drill the frame hole?

I have a 4" lift now, the bare minimum to fit 33x12.50. I'll need probably 6-7 Inches of lift to fit 35's or 36's, right?.

Anything else i need to know about? special steering mods? oil pan interference? steering BOX mods?

Rear lift options? Marlin is expensive, but quality, i think.




other mods during this:
35's? 36's?
5.29
ARB rear, maybe.
 

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92 Pickup Extended Cab. 4" superlift. 33's. 4.88's.

I've decided on doing a SAS. 84-85 axle.

Should i go with the Marlin Kit or the Trail-Gear?

Why is Trail-Gear $500 chepaer?

Are there any other companies i need to know about?

Will i need to buy a seperate kit to do a complete rebuild of the axle.

How do i know how far back to drill the frame hole?

I have a 4" lift now, the bare minimum to fit 33x12.50. I'll need probably 6-7 Inches of lift to fit 35's or 36's, right?.

Anything else i need to know about? special steering mods? oil pan interference? steering BOX mods?

Rear lift options? Marlin is expensive, but quality, i think.




other mods during this:
35's? 36's?
5.29
ARB rear, maybe.

I'd go with Marlin for the SAS Kit, AP is good too, but I couldn't get their front springs to last more than 6months. AP springs do flex well though! The kits all include basically the same things. I'm not sure why Trail Gear's kit is $500 cheaper, but I would go with Marlin because all of their stuff has always been top notch for me. I don't have any TG stuff, and probably never will unless things change (that is a different subject that will get threads closed!)

I'm running 5" springs and have probably around 4" of lift with the weight I have on my rig. Exo, front winch... bla bla bla.

My rig has a 22ret (leaky turbo) with 5.29s and I run 37" MTRs and DIY beadlocks, they weigh around 110lbs each. I have dual cases and a final crawl ratio of 244:1. It is about perfect for the wheelin I do. Mostly all rocks... Big rocks. I can go to 40's and will only have to trim the firewall. Keep the rig low unless you are playing in deep mud.

I've run w/o Hydro assist and with a front locker, its a PITA to steer, but livable.
I would run a selectable locker in the front and in the rear if you can spare the coin, otherwise go with a automatic locker like a Detroit, Aussie, Lock-rite...

If you have any questions, PM me.
 

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You need to lurk over at PBB for a while. You now have to pay $20.00 a year to use the search feature though.
Or you can do like me and use Google. Just go to google, click advanced search, and enter the pirate forum url into the domain. Works great and no fee.

-TRent
 

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I'm running TG stuff f/r on my 4runner....if i could do it again, i'd probably do lifted chevies in the back cuz the TG rear springs are too soft for how heavy my truck is (92 4runner). I had to replace all the front wheel bearings after about 5k. Since the swap to Timken bearings, I've had no issues.

the kits come with templates that show you where to drill/cut the holes in the frame for the shackle.

there's a ton of info out there, so go grab a beer and your reading glasses.
 

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Check out my build, (in signature) I used TG in the front and Marlin in the rear. It's on a '95 Xtra Cab truck with the V6. Is yours a V6 or 22re? If I were to do it again, I would have gone with 3" springs rather than the 4". Don't be fooled by thinking that a 4" spring will give only 4" of lift total on a SAS, that's not true, there are other factors that make the lift much taller than 4". On 36's my truck sits at about 28.5" to the frame whereas most other guys are sittin at 25" on 37-40" tires. Granted, my truck is pretty damn light right now, I don't think they'll drop that much after bumpers, exo, winch, blah blah. Another thing about 3" springs is that they have more down travel than higher lift springs, which is good for crawling. Especially if you don't mind choppin your fenders up, go with the 3" springs.

As for the quality of the TG kit, I wasn't disappointed. It even includes a knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings, a $140 extra with the AP or Marlin kit. If I had to complain about something, one of my FJ80 rod ends had a torn boot but everything else was great.
Like everyone else said, search, search and search and then search once more and you'll decide what's best for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check out my build, (in signature) I used TG in the front and Marlin in the rear. It's on a '95 Xtra Cab truck with the V6. Is yours a V6 or 22re? If I were to do it again, I would have gone with 3" springs rather than the 4". Don't be fooled by thinking that a 4" spring will give only 4" of lift total on a SAS, that's not true, there are other factors that make the lift much taller than 4". On 36's my truck sits at about 28.5" to the frame whereas most other guys are sittin at 25" on 37-40" tires. Granted, my truck is pretty damn light right now, I don't think they'll drop that much after bumpers, exo, winch, blah blah. Another thing about 3" springs is that they have more down travel than higher lift springs, which is good for crawling. Especially if you don't mind choppin your fenders up, go with the 3" springs.

As for the quality of the TG kit, I wasn't disappointed. It even includes a knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings, a $140 extra with the AP or Marlin kit. If I had to complain about something, one of my FJ80 rod ends had a torn boot but everything else was great.
Like everyone else said, search, search and search and then search once more and you'll decide what's best for you.

oh trust me, i've seen your build. its definetly inspired me to do mine. i even want the 36" IROKS. thanks for the info, i'll consider your advice.

how would the IROKS be for a daily? i'm not worried about noise, i'm worried about tire life.
 

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how would the IROKS be for a daily? i'm not worried about noise, i'm worried about tire life.
The IROKS would probably be short lived depending on how much driving you're doing.

I DD my truck on 35" BFG MT and i'm coming up on 20K miles and I have about 40% tread left.

If you(or I) could afford it, I'd get a set of street wheels/tires (something like BFG AT) and swap for the IROKS when it's time to go play.
 

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I've already got close to 3500miles on mine and they look brand new, even some whiskers left here and there. Just don't overdrive them and I think they'll last 30-35k no problem on the street.
 
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