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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Propane tanks mounted, just about 1/4 in front and 1 in or so in rear for clearance to close tailgate





New Bushings Installed... what a PITA... so I ordered bushings from trail gear hoping they would fit into my procomp franken leafs up front. Turns out the bushings were a 1/4 in to big. So I ended up using the leaf spring bolt and flat piece of steel to drive the bushings in. The rest of the bushings went fairly smooth.


So on to the power steering seal... Well basically I screwed up and unbolted the worm gear and unthreaded it. So all the ball bearings fell out. Ended up removing the power steering box completely and got it all reassembled using the method outlined here: In Case You Spill Worm Gear Bearings
Was not too bad. After that inspected box and found that just had to undo a retaining nut on input shaft and unthread cap. piece of cake...


 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Ya I played around with a few different ideas, that being one of them. With my current shock setup in the rear /\ would have conflicted. So mounted them like such for simplicity and just to get truck back up and running. Later on might switch things around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Autometer Water Temp Gauge 4337 installed. Came with a few adapters but all were NPT thread. Had to purchase an adapter to fit in the factory location on 22re motor. Ended up purchasing a 5/8 UNF male to 1/4 NPT female fitting. Which I could not find in state anywhere so ordered one form UK.



 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Some thoughts on my BAMF Skid Plate:

Ultimately I was very excited when I found a option for a diff skid for my toyota 8" TRD. Have had it on the rig for over 8 months now and have proven its built well and is very strong. What I have noticed however, is it hangs down just a tad more than I would like and often finds itself getting hung or dragging, and note im running 37" tires. Might try to get some comparison pictures here of ground clearance.
Between actual rear diff face and the skid there seems to be a pretty decent gap not to mention the loss of access to fill plug. Note You can access it with a huge box end or crescent wrench, but I prefer using a socket to prevent rounding.
Next area I have found to be problematic is the pinon protection itself. It angles down as a tongue and catches on rocks rather than skidding. Has actually held me up a few times from making a ledge. Think easy solution here is just to angle it up.
Also, for those with the Elocker there is minimal protection for that area, as I had addressed previously by boxing it in.
Overall the fitment of the skid was pretty good and was very happy with quality and craftsmanship of the skid. I did have to grind of some random brackets on the diff housing and may also loose some real-estate on the housing for a traction bar mount.

Right now I am kinda faced with a decision of chopping it up to make it suit my needs better or selling it. Have seen some other very well done skids here on the forums, but time investment looks huge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Socorroween 12... negotiating the Edge
Was definitely a tough trail, front driveline was overextended twice and luckily just had to be slipped back in. Axle wrap was pointed out as a major factor, and will be looking into building a rear track bar, and possibly square front drive shaft or getting long spline kit.



 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Started some work on the Traction Bar. Will be going with a shackle set up, with a heim at the shackle and bushings at the axle side. Will be using 1 3/4 .120 wall tube but will be sleeving the lower bar with 1.5 .120 wall for some extra strength

Got bushings and heim from Barnes 4wd
Heat Treated Chromoly 7/8-14 x 3/4 Heim Joint
Couple of their poly bushing sets with sleeves



Started working on the brackets 1/4 inch steel
Nice to have plasma cutter




 

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Nice, man. I need to get me a plasma cutter. :eek: An angle grinder sucks on those concave curves :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Yea they sure do make it easy and heck of a lot faster. Also nice that we have a shop here at the school that lets us use all these tools, through the Mechanical Engineering SAE Baja program.

See you have your truck for sale Slodgetto. GLWS
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
More Work on traction bar, got holes drilled and the sleeves cut for the bushings







Wanted to mount the shackle upwards but with that approach the angle of the traction bar was going to be ridiculous steep. So going with the shackle facing down, which allows lower bar to follow driveshaft angle. Should have some more pics/progress next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Sorry no finished photos of the traction bar mounted on the truck, but had some issues finishing painting the other side with Rustoleum spray paint. I now have 3 cans of the blue color, 3/4 to 1/2 full that wont spray. It's like there clogged but I clean the spray tips every time I'm done. Its almost as if the cans ran out of CO2. The only thing in common is they all have the wide, white tip. All 3 cans were bought at separate times, different stores, so I dont think it's a problem of a "bad shippment". Either way think I will be switching to Krylon from now on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Finished photos of the traction bar minus paint... can see it follows driveshaft fairly close and is just a tad below it.





And now on to why its up in the air on jacks... so last trail run out on the drive back home there was a very distinct humming coming from the rear end when ever above 20mph. So got it back home and decided to just pull it all apart and inspect. Drained the diff fluid and found a some very tiny pieces of metal. Not too bad maybe ring is ok.
tried to rotate the axles by hand, man these things were not free wheeling. Very tight and distinct grinding feeling and sound. Got the shafts pulled, and bearings are definitely gone. Lots of play up and down. I go to turn the pinion by hand and it spins freely and then gets tight at certain parts. Not looking so good. Get it all pulled out and find the pinion just fracturing itself apart. Grab a rag and clean out the diff housing and find all the hidden chunks. These were Trail Creeper gears purchased back in 06 and I must say have held up to quite a bit of abuse on the trails.
So my plan right now is to get new bearings pressed in the axles, would do these myself but do not have a press. So those are off to the mechanic tomorrow. Going to order up a new ring and pinon and get it all back together.

VIDEOS -> Click on Images to Play
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Got the diff all pulled apart to check out the condition of bearings. From the looks of the pattern and the way the teeth on the pinon broke appears that the pinon was set too deep. Also got to use my new shop press.






 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Few Updates... Had been having a starter issue for quite some time including different starters. Read some great info on 4x4wire's thread that resembled the issues I was having -> thread here... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#EasyTest
Anyways got the starter pulled off the truck and pulled apart the solenoid. Found some pretty good pitting, and that the plunger was only contacting the outer contacts on two high spots. So got everything all cleaned up with some steel wool, file, and wire brush then put all back together.








Also some parts showed up today... New TG V6 5.29 Ring and pinon and a solid pinon spacer. Thanks LowRange, as always great prices and fast shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Got the gears finally all set up. My bearings all still looked in good shape, no pitting or discoloration from heat so will be reusing, taking in to account preload with this. Must say thanks to Ken from gearinstalls.com who provided some very meticulous information on performing a regear, and quick reply via email on questions I had during his vacation time. Could not have done it or gained the confidence without your help.

Moving on, purchased a minor install kit from JustDifferentials. They offer two different kits, one for later 27 spline pinion and the newer 29 spline. I have the 27 spline so ordered the Minimum Install Kit 01 & Down Toyota 8" V6 3rd Member & FJ80 High Pinion Model # IK TV6-A.
I was a bit disappointed with the kit, really wanted the kit for the pinion shims and new seal as well as yellow marking paint. Thought it was a nice bundle. There just was not enough range in pinion shims and I will talk about that more in gear setup. Anyways shims provided 3-.020", 3-.030", and 3-.040".


On to the install, could not have done this without a press.
New ring gear installed, discarded locking tabs, ring bolts torques to 75ft/lb with red loctite. I use the longer bolt to help line up things during the pressing, and the ensure that two of the bolts will thread on opposite sides


Markings on the Gears:




Some tools I made to help with the install:
spanner wrenches for the adjustable rings, two different sizes, the larger one works well for the elocker side only on initial setup and testing of gears, on final setup the locking collar gets in the way, so adjusted with a punch and rubber mallet.




On to the install:
Started with the original pinion shim off the old gears, value of .080. Set up pinion without crush sleeve and about 18ppl (pinion pre load), dialed in the backlash to .008 and applied gear paint to get a reading. No pictures on this one but pinion was too shallow, offset markings on gear, pattern on drive side was up by the heel and on coast was down by the toe. Pinion to low.

Disassembled everything, added .020 shim, total shims .100", This got the pattern nice and centered, coast looks nice slightly deep, but drive side was a bit shallow. Looking at the pinion we can see the comet tail is deep in the pinion so more shim is needed.





Disassembled, added .010 shim, total shims .110", Coast side looks nice and deep in the ring now, drive side is slightly deeper but not enough, comet tail on pinon is much smaller not as deep on pinion. At this point probably only need a few thousandths more.




This is where my shim dilemma came in to play, Zuk recommended 3 to 4 thous more, so I tried to get as close to that. One of the .040 shims in the kit actually measured just under at .036, so original .080+.036 total shims .116", Pattern is on the heavy side of "slight deep" which is much better than slightly shallow. Coast side is pretty deep now and drive side does have some depth favoring toe a bit more. Pinon is more shallow for sure.






So pinion is saying no more shims, Zuk suggested taking off .003 would be ideal, but just lack of range in shims does not give me that option. Could order some more shims and wait, but trying to make it to all4fun event at end of the month. Pinion tooth is stronger than the ring so running deeper in the ring tooth increases overall strength. So im going to run it like this.


 
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