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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am doing truck support for a motorcycle team riding in the upcoming Baja 500. There's not enough room in the truck for a bike, tools, gas water, camping stuff, ramp, riders, etc. I looked around at various safari racks and although I really liked the Defender as well as some of the features on some of the other racks around, nothing had everything I wanted, and anything decent was going to cost $500+ as well as truck freight added on. I decided to design and fab my own. Here's a pic. It's going to powder coat this week after the Toyota roof rack adapter kit gets here. This will attach to the factory rack. It's all 16 ga. and weighs 39#. I still have to add the Hi-Lift and shovel brackets.
 

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Looks good. You should throw some light tabs on it before it gets coated, because you're going to want them later.... ( Well, I know I would anyway )
Will you post info on installing your supports? I've thought about doing this too.

Thanks!
AC

I an doing truck support for a motorcycle team riding in the upcoming Baja 250. There's not enough room in the truck for a bike, tools, gas water, camping stuff, ramp, riders, etc. I looked around at various safari racks and although I really liked the Defender as well as some of the features on some of the other racks around, nothing had everything I wanted, and anything decent was going to cost $500+ as well as truck freight added on. I decided to design and fab my own. Here's a pic. It's going to powder coat this week after the Toyota roof rack adapter kit gets here. This will attach to the factory rack. It's all 16 ga. and weighs 39#. I still have to add the Hi-Lift and shovel brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, when the adapters get here, I'll post some pics. I ordered them from Jacque at TRDparts4U and he had never seen them before so I'm not sure what they look like. I assume they are shaped like the oval cross bars.

As for the light tabs, I'm not putting any on. This is not a permanent part of my truck. It will go on and off as needed. Yes, I could put a plug on the lights but I don't want to start another wiring project now. If I decide to add lights later, I'll fab some brackets or clamps or a light bar. It's not a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The lower frame is 45"X54", the upper frame is 45"X50" and it is 5" tall. (all outside dimensions. The floor rails are 3/4" square tubing and the frame is 1" round tubing. Everthing is 16ga, including the fairing.
 

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Rack looks good. You are carrying a lot of gear, so you may want to airbag the back of the truck, or you will be on the bumpstops a lot. Take my word for it. The cargo capacity of these newer trucks is shit.:2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Dakar's will handle everything just fine. Hopefully the bike will only be back there going to and coming from the race. Most of the stuff is more bulk than weight.
 

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You're mounting this to the stock rack? I have that rack and like it, but I don't think it's rated to more than 200 pounds. I could be mistaken in my memory, but you might want to check that. How much does your rack weigh and how much you going to carry on it?
 

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The Dakar's will handle everything just fine. Hopefully the bike will only be back there going to and coming from the race. Most of the stuff is more bulk than weight.
I am running dakars. I bit of advice for ya...anything over 400 lbs in the bed and you will need bags. Even without the bike, you will probably have at least 400 lbs of gear. Tools, spares, jack, fuel, it all adds up. Do you run the dakars with the second OL or without it? You can get away with a little more weight with the second OL installed. Don't take my word for it. Find out for yourself. Just trying to help here.:2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yes, the stock rack is rated for 200 pounds. I am only going to put the lighter, bulkier stuff up there. Gear bags, sleeping bags, clothes that sort of thing. I'm also going to tie the rack to the roof rails using those 2 loops on each side with some 1" nylon straps. Anything that's really heavy like gas, tools, water will be in the bed.

I am running both overloads on the Dakars. They will be just fine. They are better than the stockers and a huge improvement over the 3 leaf AAL that I just took off.

I am not racing. I just get to leisurely cruise up the road to the next check point and wait, take pictures, drink soda and enjoy the hardcore action from the front row!
 

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Good luck. I wasn't racing when I went on my Mojave trip 2 weeks ago and I was not happy with the situation. You still have to get that bike and all the gear out to the start line don't ya? I was bottoming out on the freeway and had to offload gear into my buds truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
You're starting to make me feel guilty for not getting you a Mother's day card.

This thread isn't about my springs or even the Baja race, it's about the rack.

Well, you extended your bump stop to correct a problem caused by having the long shocks on your truck. You are on the stop before the overload even comes into play. From the pic you posted, it looks like you lost over 2" of up travel with that setup. I'm not surprised at all that you are dissappointed in the load handling capability of your truck. I will be running a shorter bump stop and still have a safety margin of almost 3" before bottoming the shocks.

I had over 400 lbs of cement block pavers and lumber in my truck last week and still had 2 1/2" of travel left. The Dakar springs work very well.
 

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Happy mothers day. You have a very valid point. However, before the mod to the bumpstop, I brought home 10 sheets of drywall and was on the factory stop then. Explain that one. Let us know how it works out for ya. If I'm wrong, I'll eat crow. BTW, the rack looks great. Nice fab work! Here we go, back on topic.
 

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You removed one of the overloads?

1/2" drywall weighs 54#/sheet, 5/8" weighs 74#/ sheet. That's a lot of weight for 10 sheets.
I first tried the truck with the second OL, but it stuck out like a rock anchor. Took it out 2 days after installing it. To be very honest with you, I can't recall if it was in when I picked up the drywall. The drywall was 5/8 thick. I used to bring it home no problem when I had the truck air bagged. Anyway, hope it works out for you. It may be ok with the second OL installed. Just wanted help you avoid the hassle of being overloaded. I'm taking my extended Bumps out soon. I just haven't decided what shock to run. I don't want to mod the upper mount, so I may just run Hoe resi's. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I set the rack on the truck to check fit and see how it looks. It fits just right and there is nothing I would change on it at this point. I wish I could say that about every project!
 

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Rack looks pro! Nice job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It is finished. No shovel or Hi-lift rack for now. I will mount the Hi-Lift to the bed bar. The rack is finished in Rustoleum and that is for a couple of reasons. Powdercoat was over $200 and I can add tabs, mounts or adapters easily and just repaint. If I want powdercoating later, no biggie, just blast it and coat it. The rack adapters are pretty slick but I had to modify them to make them work. I machined off some tabs, milled a slot in the levers and made some T-bolts for the mounting points. They are nice, but I could have made some mounts that would be easier to use and maybe stronger, similar to Yakima mounts. (probably cheaper too). I used some nylon lashing straps to the little D rings on the roof rack to add stability and strength although it is plenty sturdy without them. I would not be concerned with loading it a bit above the rated capacty of the factory rack.
 

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When's it going to be in production? ;)
 
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