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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Looking very good!

I'll still make a comment: I woulda plug welded that plate on as well :p
 

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The trick to the oil pan is to remove those 3-4 bolts that hold the inspection cover to the bellhousing. Then it will easily clear.

Probably a good idea to use RTV rather than a gasket. I used a gasket on mine the first time and it leaked...bad. Had to drain the oil, drop the pan, and put RTV on it.

Build looks good. I am looking forward to more pics.

Do you have the Toyota pinion flange on that 60??
 

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...side note... while you have the front exposed (no bumpers)... take the time to spay it flat black.. I'll be pulling my bumper (for a few reasons) and making sure to do that while it's off... it's a small detail, but usually that stuff is way more visible after an SAS/bumper swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
So here is my shackle angle. Looks a little on the steep side but not srue what I can do to change it. Without weight on it its 90 degrees, looks a little off in the pic but its straight up and down here. They are at 40 degrees when weight is on them. Can't really move the mount back any cause then they will have the chance to invert. My shackles are 5 inches long. Also I took 2 leafs out of my springs, this could be why they went so flat depending on the height I may or may not put them back in.Suggestions?



 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Nothing wrong with shackle angle at all. Try compressing just one leaf to get them flat. The shackle should not hit the frame (but if your calculations are correct, they will not.)

Lookin good!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Do you have the Toyota pinion flange on that 60??
When I built the axle a year ago I called high angle to get the toyota flanges for the front and rear axle. The front one was like $100 and the rear was like $400 since they had just came out. I asked the guy what would be cheaper and he said since I need to put in a cv i would save money just staying with my current yoke.
 

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When I built the axle a year ago I called high angle to get the toyota flanges for the front and rear axle. The front one was like $100 and the rear was like $400 since they had just came out. I asked the guy what would be cheaper and he said since I need to put in a cv i would save money just staying with my current yoke.
Gotcha. I was wondering if they had come out with one for a 14-bolt yet.

Shackle angle looks good. Take a grinder to those shackles though and round those corners off. They will look 10x better.


When you get that rear axle under there, can you get me a measurement from the bottom of the diff to the ground?? And from the bottom of the axle tubes to the ground>
 

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Discussion Starter #53
One week almost nonstop. Still not done. Still have to put on shocks, finish panhord rod, and line up and weld on the rear axle and do drivelines. Spend 2 days trying to line up the rear axle to finally figure out my front springs center pin wasn't in the same spot on both spring. Trail gear springs suck! The hole is 1/2" off. Here is some pics. Currently the frame is 26" from the ground.


I built my own firewall plate. I used a piece of steel out off the front skid plate. I didn't even have to bend it, the piece had the exact bend as the firewall plate.




 

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just curious where is everyone getting there oil pan conversion? I went to the stealership and they wanted $274 for everything. Just the oil pan was 174.


BTW build looks great. Did you do all that yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
just curious where is everyone getting there oil pan conversion? I went to the stealership and they wanted $274 for everything. Just the oil pan was 174.


BTW build looks great. Did you do all that yourself?
I got my oil pan and sump with gasget and fipg at the dealership, it came to around $175. I used my companies dicount though. I did everything myself. Not my first build though, not an expert but have some experience. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
What's up with the brakelines?? Maybe we can help
Oh ya forgot. My axle came with braided lines on it so I didn't want to make new ones. The braided lines fitting was 7/16" instead of the 3/8" which is usually what is used. I ended up getting a fitting to down size it which is what I couldn't find. Finally found one and then bought a hardline from autozone that would fit into it. I then chopped off the one end and put the
10mm on one end and double flared it then hooked it all up.
 

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Man that firewall plate looks good. The truck is coming along nicely.:cool:
 

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wow looking very nice!! good work. it loooks like your front bumper either has to go or get changed, in the pics it looks like it might rub it under flex.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
In the garage it didn't rub under flex, but it probably will when I get it out and flex fon a rock. the spring is almost as flat as it can get since i took out 2 leafs to get the height down. It only compresses 1-1/2 to 2 more inches. I plan on making a tube bumper for the front during christmas break.
 

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STITCH - Come and Take it!
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Great build!
Can't wait to see some trail pics of her in action.
One question, will you be able to get out of the garage?
 
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