[supahonkey]

I am just finishing up my SAS when I noticed a SLIGHT problem after taking it out for a short test run. I pretty much have no brakes. I bled the brakes right before I did the test run, and there was the correct amount of pressure on the pedal. We bled the brakes so that there were no air bubbles left on all 4 brakes. I'm using the usual front waggy brakes along with the stock toy rear brakes. After bleeding the brakes, I have pressure until I turn on the truck, then I have almost no brake power. I just barely have any when I push the pedal down to the floor. I really hope that I don't have to bleed the master cylinder... that would suck. Anyway, thanks.

Brenton

 

[CornbredNE]

I am just finishing up my SAS when I noticed a SLIGHT problem after taking it out for a short test run. I pretty much have no brakes. I bled the brakes right before I did the test run, and there was the correct amount of pressure on the pedal. We bled the brakes so that there were no air bubbles left on all 4 brakes. I'm using the usual front waggy brakes along with the stock toy rear brakes. After bleeding the brakes, I have pressure until I turn on the truck, then I have almost no brake power. I just barely have any when I push the pedal down to the floor. I really hope that I don't have to bleed the master cylinder... that would suck. Anyway, thanks.

Brenton

Don't forget to bleed the BPV valve if it's still in the system. That often becomes the spot where air pockets collect when the system is open to do the SAS.

Later,
David

 

[YUNADERIS]

you must bleed everything in the right order

bpv, brakes, master cylinder

i must have bled my brakes ten times and used a pressure bleeder...they work good now but the pedal feel is soft..which will be normal with the large single piston calipers on waggys

 

[supahonkey]

So you didn't have to replace the master cylinder and the booster when you did your SAS? Check this link out: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

This guy bought a chevy 3/4 ton master cylinder along with a booster from a T100 and he said that helped out a lot. Anyway, thanks.

Brenton

 

[Timbuddha]

Bleed them, then bleed them some more, and then bleed them again.

Tim

 

[Brain]

Just making sure that your bleeder screws on the front calipers are faced upwards. Facing them downwards will cause air to enter the system all the time while bleeding.

 

[YUNADERIS]

buying that booster and adapter plate doesnt help you stop faster, it just makes your brake pedal firmer....i have driven both types of sas trucks with waggy brakes.... it just makes your pedal stiffer

 

[supahonkey]

That is impossible that having the chevy 1 1/8" MC doesn't make the vehicle stop faster. I currently have the stock MC with the waggy calipers, and it doesn't stop worth a damn, this is because there is not enough brake pressure to engage the caliper. I can get better brake pressure than what I have now by getting the larger MC.

 

[YUNADERIS]

thats cool

let us know how it works out

i have driven both setups...with larger MC and stock,.,.,,,it just made the pedal stiffer....did it stop better than mine? i didnt think it was dramatic enough difference.....


stopping 35's with stock calipers is just not going to be like a porsche stopping...plain and simple...the key is more pistons.....

 

[cb77DEMELLO]

thats cool

let us know how it works out

i have driven both setups...with larger MC and stock,.,.,,,it just made the pedal stiffer....did it stop better than mine? i didnt think it was dramatic enough difference.....


stopping 35's with stock calipers is just not going to be like a porsche stopping...plain and simple...the key is more pistons.....

I have bleed mine front and rear about 3-4 times and it still don't stop worth shit! How do I bleed the master cylinder?

 

[WATRD]

I have bleed mine front and rear about 3-4 times and it still don't stop worth shit! How do I bleed the master cylinder?

2. BLEED MASTER CYLINDER
​

HINT:
​

If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes
​

empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.
​

(a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
​

SST 09023–00100
​

(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
​

(c) Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the
​

brake pedal.
​

(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.
​

 

[cb77DEMELLO]

That don't seem too bad, do I do all of them or just one?

Thank you!

2. BLEED MASTER CYLINDER​

​

HINT:


​

If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes​

empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.​

(a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.​

SST 09023–00100​

(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.​

(c) Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the​

brake pedal.​

(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.​

 

[WATRD]

That don't seem too bad, do I do all of them or just one?

Thank you!

You will need to do both of the outlets from the master cylinder.

 

[YUNADERIS]

thanks for the writeup Rob

 

[WATRD]

No thanks required. I just cut and pasted from the FSM

Oh my, I just noticed that you and I are forever locked together in history by consecutive member numbers

 

[YUNADERIS]

i didnt realise i was such a malaise to people , especially being locked eternally in consecutive numbers

it was hard getting that one...i was waiting for ten and nailed it....of course you know why...its hard being a perfect 10, but someone has to do it :")

 

[supahonkey]

well by golly

Okay, after purchasing a 1/2 ton chevy MC, I think I am coming close to solving my brake issue. I'm not willing to settle with a crappy braking system by leaving the stock MC on, I cannot stand a mushy peddle. At any rate, after purchasing a new MC (only 15.99 at autozone, I thought it would be 50 bucks) I popped the hood of my taco, only to find out that toyota changed the MC bolt patteron to 2 bolts instead of the 4 bolt pattern on the older tacos (i have an 02). Now, I can't make a bracket, I must relocate the studes on the booster and increasethe center to center distance of the studs to match to the 2 bolt pattern of the chevy. Once I do that, I have to make an adapter because using the stock push rod will create a huge vacuum leak. Ah, once that's done, I will hopefully have a better system. Anyway, thanks.

p.s. I don't understand why so many people are saying to bleed the MC last... If I bleed the BPV, then the brakes, the finally the MC, then I'll be back to where I started. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is backwards. I should bleed the MC, the BPV, then the brakes. Anyway, thanks all. I'll let you know how it all works out.

 

[WATRD]

p.s. I don't understand why so many people are saying to bleed the MC last... If I bleed the BPV, then the brakes, the finally the MC, then I'll be back to where I started. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is backwards. I should bleed the MC, the BPV, then the brakes. Anyway, thanks all. I'll let you know how it all works out.

I only see where one person said the bleed the master cylinder last, but you are correct, it must be done before bleeding anything else. I didn't catch that on my first read.

Since bleeding the master cylinder requires removing the lines from it, that will introduce air into those lines. After bleeding the master, THEN the slaves and BPV must be bleed.

 

[Bear]

Wish you had called me before your brake issues

Okay, after purchasing a 1/2 ton chevy MC, I think I am coming close to solving my brake issue. I'm not willing to settle with a crappy braking system by leaving the stock MC on, I cannot stand a mushy peddle. At any rate, after purchasing a new MC (only 15.99 at autozone, I thought it would be 50 bucks) I popped the hood of my taco, only to find out that toyota changed the MC bolt patteron to 2 bolts instead of the 4 bolt pattern on the older tacos (i have an 02). Now, I can't make a bracket, I must relocate the studes on the booster and increasethe center to center distance of the studs to match to the 2 bolt pattern of the chevy. Once I do that, I have to make an adapter because using the stock push rod will create a huge vacuum leak. Ah, once that's done, I will hopefully have a better system. Anyway, thanks.

p.s. I don't understand why so many people are saying to bleed the MC last... If I bleed the BPV, then the brakes, the finally the MC, then I'll be back to where I started. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is backwards. I should bleed the MC, the BPV, then the brakes. Anyway, thanks all. I'll let you know how it all works out.

You should have called me about all your brake issues. I haven't replied earlier because I was looking something up for you. It has taken me two days to find this write up I have on the brakes, but I think it will help you. I am posting it here, just in case the "next person" needs it as well.

Here is the link: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/
It is a step by step of how the soft SAS brake issue was addressed and solved.

Let me know if you need anything else. I am also planning on buying a pressure bleeder, that will definitely help out with your brakes, just not sure when. but definitely before I do my SAS so if you can hold off, you are more than welcome to use it when I get it. If you can't wait, here is a link to a company that sells them. The following link is a page with all their power bleeders on it so you can choose which one you want: http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

Like I said, I wish you would have called me about this before!

 

[Zzyzx]

thats cool

let us know how it works out

i have driven both setups...with larger MC and stock,.,.,,,it just made the pedal stiffer....did it stop better than mine? i didnt think it was dramatic enough difference.....


stopping 35's with stock calipers is just not going to be like a porsche stopping...plain and simple...the key is more pistons.....

Are there any pimpin calipers that will on the waggy? Willwood, brembo?