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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to do the sas in a 2000 tacoma and I am wanting to run the dana 44 from the 78,79 fords. I know they are a little wider but I heard that was the best one to run. I am running chevy outers for the lug pattern and maybe dodge knuckles for the high steer. I am going to make my kit w/ all the steering linkage and use the cage off road radius arms from the fords. Am I in the right direction or what I need some help. :saw:
 

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tacomatrd00 said:
I am about to do the sas in a 2000 tacoma and I am wanting to run the dana 44 from the 78,79 fords. I know they are a little wider but I heard that was the best one to run. I am running chevy outers for the lug pattern and maybe dodge knuckles for the high steer. I am going to make my kit w/ all the steering linkage and use the cage off road radius arms from the fords. Am I in the right direction or what I need some help. :saw:
Sounds alright to me. Those axles have cast in wedges for the c-bushings, which means if you remove them you have to axle tube remaining, but because you plan to use radius arms it should be smooth sailing.
 

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I suggest fabbing your own radius arms. You want to do a couple of things, make them fairly long, and don't use a heim for a rear attach. If you don't you will run out of travel in the front suspension. I used the standard Ford bushing setup for the rear attach. Yes you do have to change bushings every couple of years but it's a snap to do and you can do it with the truck on the ground. You can also provide a means to adjust caster if you fab your own arms. To get the Cs for the front attach, I got some stock Bronco arms off of E-bay and cut the C's off.
Parts Mike is a great source for the outer knuckle, steering arms and stuff and a special bolt that you can use for the rear attach. Just call and ask him about it. I bought some spare bolts from him so he should remember. I forgot what he made them for originally, some part or other for a Jeep I think.
Go with mid 70's K series 4WD Chevy for the brakes and you will have a ready supply of cost effective brake stuff in the future that will work with your stock master cylinder.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dean/sas stuff/
 

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Well just for the record- I wouldn't bother with Parts Mike for the bolts. Everything else sure. He is out of the ones he made for you apparently Dick and I waited on him for 2 months for mine before he finally got them made. When he got them in his hands they were fucked up so he just said he couldn't do it.
If you go that route I would suggest getting the specs from him and go find a machine shop to just make them- WFO in Norcal will make anything you want like that and have it out in a day or so.
 

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Thanks for the update, I didn't know that. He didn't make them for me, he made them for some kinda Jeep part. If push comes to shove, I know someone with a machine shop that could make them. If he goes that way, I can check to see how much he would want to do some up. I'd say get four. Two for the initial swap and two spares.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a bunch for all the helpful info and also what driveshaft will I run that will bolt to the transfer case and the ford dana 44. And I heard to use a early 90's model gear box is that right and how do I know where to place it on the frame and what steering linkage do I use. Did you fab yours or did you get some kind of kit. again thanks
 

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That information about adapters, box mounts, etc. is abundant- look around.

Dick- just for reference Mike wanted about 8 bucks per side for the bushings, washer, nut sets and right at 30 apiece for the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wondering what coilsprings to run I found the rancho's, sway-a-way, and kings trying to find the biggest bang for the buck.
 

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tacomatrd00 said:
Thanks a bunch for all the helpful info and also what driveshaft will I run that will bolt to the transfer case and the ford dana 44.
Stick this in your 44 and keep the Toy bolt pattern.



Or just get the driveshaft made to fit what you have now. You need to get the driveshaft worked on anyway.

Later,
....Mike
 

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I just took my truck to the driveline shop and let him handle it. Dana on one end, Toy on the other.
One of the nice things about a radius arm suspension is that you don't need a long slip section because of the fairly constant radius. The high pinion also helps to keep things a little stronger for the drive shaft as the angles on the universals are much less than with a low pinion. The ring and pinion setup in a HP is also about 30% stonger than an equivalent low pinion diff up front.
 

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I got the adapter from HAD and nothing else. My stock taco drive shaft bolts right up and stays put throughout the complete suspension cycle. I was skeptical, but it's all I needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am trying to find a good coilover for cheap. The cheapest I found was around $1000 but I found these for the xterra http://www.purenissan.com/new_page_3.htm will these work for the right lift. I have 6 inches of lift in the rear, what will this setup give me as in lift. Also I heard I had to turn the C's on the end of the axle to get the caster right but can I just use different degree bushings. I plan on using the cage off road radius arms which gives a 4 degree on the axle.
 

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You will probably want more than 10" of travel. 12" would be the minimum, 14" would be ideal. I know another common size coilover is 16", not sure how popular 14" ones are, but I have not researched it any.
 

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Dick Foster said:
One of the nice things about a radius arm suspension is that you don't need a long slip section because of the fairly constant radius. .
this should be true for most link suspensions where the link frame mounts are towards the transfercase.
 

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AK98Taco said:
Sounds alright to me. Those axles have cast in wedges for the c-bushings, which means if you remove them you have to axle tube remaining, but because you plan to use radius arms it should be smooth sailing.

My wedges were welded and removed by me with a lot of cutting and grinding. However, some are cast as you said.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm changing axles no longer going to run the ford 44 I am going with the waggy 44 and going to make my own radius arms. Plus the ford wms is 66" and the waggy is 61" and mine is 61".
 

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It depends on the design. For example with a four link the diff pinion remains parallel to the ground so the pinion angle changes with respect to the drive shaft and there is more slip needed while the caster remains unchanged with respect to the ground. With a a radius arm stetup the pinion angle with respect to the drive shaft remains pretty much unchanged and the caster changes. With a radius arm setup, about all the slip you need is due to axle twist and the off center diff with some from vertical suspension travel but not as much as with other setups due to the constant pinion angle up front.
 

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tom woods also makes 44 to toy adapters, similar to marlin, and i like to just have toy stuff on my driveshafts, it's a nice set up, and i havent broken anything yet, even with a 60 rear
radius arms? isnt there better technology out there these days? i always heard that was a joke, ford always did weird things, but i dont know nothing
 
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