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Discussion Starter #1
I have looked and looked I need some help. Not sure where to start. Truck drives fine till you hit uneven pavement or bump or something.
 

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Going John Galt
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I have looked and looked I need some help. Not sure where to start. Truck drives fine till you hit uneven pavement or bump or something.
have hydro assist?
if the steering system isn't completely purged of air bubbles...and I mean completely...you'll get a wobble hitting a bump at mild speeds.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Worn bushings? High steer? Drag link angle? Worn tres? Worn box? Bad tires?

Also, check but you also want slight toe in (front or tires closer togethrt than the rear)

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The sas was done not to long ago not by me. It's a trail gear sas kit c. Everything feels tight has high steer. Sometimes it looks out of line next time it looks right. Tires are new. has 2k miles on swap
 

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Going John Galt
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The sas was done not to long ago not by me. It's a trail gear sas kit c. Everything feels tight has high steer. Sometimes it looks out of line next time it looks right. Tires are new. has 2k miles on swap
yea, check toe first...easy to do in your driveway.
I'd at least add a steering stabilizer to the mix...what I had before Hydro went on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked the toe just with a tape in the driveway seems to be half out. You can look at one time and it looks right next time it looks off.
 

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Going John Galt
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I checked the toe just with a tape in the driveway seems to be half out. You can look at one time and it looks right next time it looks off.
What I use...

you can make up a set of 'jigs' for this.

need: 2 nice and straight pieces of wood...I used quality 3/4" plywood...about
2" x42" for a 35" tire and 2 pcs of same width by wheel diameter (mine are 15") These do need to be good and straight at least along the 3/4" line which is why I used good plywood for this...more stable then solid wood.

glue & clamp the 15" pieces to the 42s at about the mid point of the 42, 3/4" edge to 3/4" edge, making one 1 jig for each side. ___-----___

one bungee cord each side to attach jigs to wheels.

the 15" section edge goes flat against the wheel rim so the 42" stands out from the tire.

get the front axle up on jack stands so wheels turn freely.

bungee the jigs across the outside of each wheel/tire at wheel center, approx.

measure with tape measure from outside of jig left/right both front and rear of tires and compare. toe-in around 1/8" is supposed to be ideal for 35" tires, slightly more for larger but no more than 1/4". (from Pirate)

loosen tie rod jam nuts so you can turn TR for toe in/toe out. It doesn't take much movement of the TR to change the toe so finesse is your friend :p

tighten jam nuts and re-check.

I also try to take out as much play as possible between the two TR ends so the TR doesn't really move much when the nuts are torqued down. (grab the TR and try to turn it up/down) Too much play will add to a wobble problem...at least it does in my case.


Phil, how do you adjust yours?
 

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I'm goin take it to the shop see what they think. What should the caster be set st?
General consensus is 4-6* positive caster with 1/8" toe in will give about the best drivability.
I'm at 3/16" toe in and 6*. My truck tracks straight and true, tires wear great. No death wobble. It does need a steering stabilizer because the wheel will give me bumpsteer feedback, but that's normal. A stabilizer will only cushion the bumpsteer.
 

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Going John Galt
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I'm goin take it to the shop see what they think. What should the caster be set st?
do you have a 3-link or leaf spring suspension?
 

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Going John Galt
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Leaf front and rear. 63 chevy back and trail gear front
then all you can adjust is toe. camber and caster set when knuckles rotated during axle build
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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Leaf front and rear. 63 chevy back and trail gear front
What did you set your caster at, and was it at ride height with the rear end also at ride height? If you dont know, this is probably your issue lol

The way i set my toe is i take 2 2 foot levels and clamp it to the rotor. I clamp it so they stick straight forward. It helps to lock both hubs in and put the truck in 4wd and they will not rotate down.

Then just adjust till i have 1/16"-1/8" closer together at the tip than the middle where its clamped.

Tires wear perfect, no weird driving.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm not sure about any of it . I didn't build it. I'm just trying to fix it. If I have to I will cut it back out star over. Do I just need tak it to a shop see what the caster is set at?
 

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Going John Galt
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You can measure caster by putting an angle finder on top of the (flat portion) of the steering arm. On a flat level surface, of course.



nice rotor, LOL
 
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