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Discussion Starter #1
Well I had planned to wait until this fall/winter to start in on a SAS but it appears my front diff actuator has crapped out on me and instead of spending $350 on something I'm just going to cut out later I think I'll just go ahead and start :saw:

Unfortunately I have an 01 4runner with push button 4x4 for 4hi and manual shift for 4lo (not the classic "J" shift) and a separate button for center diff lock. So unfortunately there are more electronics to deal with.

My questions:
1. Is there any way to keep the T-case I have now and make it work? If so how?
2. What all would I need to do if I bought a 96-00 J-shift t-case in order to make it work. I'm assuming it would bolt up just fine but then what do I do with switches and such.
3. What are your thoughts, ideas, suggestions?

I wouldn't mind buying a lefty or taco box if I had an extra $2K to toss around but for now I'd rather hold off if at all possible.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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The tcase still works. The only thing is the 4x4 light in the dash that doesn't work. I cut the wire on the computer that triggers the light, and connected it to the switch. When the switch is pressed, the power is sent to the actuator and the light. It's in my build thread on the national board.

Nothing special is needed to be done.
 

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The tcase still works. The only thing is the 4x4 light in the dash that doesn't work. I cut the wire on the computer that triggers the light, and connected it to the switch. When the switch is pressed, the power is sent to the actuator and the light. It's in my build thread on the national board.

Nothing special is needed to be done.
Shazam!

May as well put in a crawl box while you're doing all this work, Anthony :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The tcase still works. The only thing is the 4x4 light in the dash that doesn't work. I cut the wire on the computer that triggers the light, and connected it to the switch. When the switch is pressed, the power is sent to the actuator and the light. It's in my build thread on the national board.

Nothing special is needed to be done.
I guess I was under the impression the 4x4 wouldn't work because it wouldn't be getting a signal from the front actuator. Currently I believe my front actuator is dead (haven't confirmed this for sure) and therefore I can't get the 4x4 to lock in steady on the dash or get the center diff lock to engage. Do I just disconnect the front actuator and leave the wires hanging?

Shazam!

May as well put in a crawl box while you're doing all this work, Anthony :cool:
I'd really like to but I'm trying to keep my wife happy so if I can keep the stock case only for a while that'd be good.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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I guess I was under the impression the 4x4 wouldn't work because it wouldn't be getting a signal from the front actuator. Currently I believe my front actuator is dead (haven't confirmed this for sure) and therefore I can't get the 4x4 to lock in steady on the dash or get the center diff lock to engage. Do I just disconnect the front actuator and leave the wires hanging?



I'd really like to but I'm trying to keep my wife happy so if I can keep the stock case only for a while that'd be good.
Yep, just leave the wires hanging. The light wont work but the tcase should still engage
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, just leave the wires hanging. The light wont work but the tcase should still engage
Awesome thanks for the info! Should I have any problem disengaging 4x4? Currently I can engage 4x4 (hear the t-case shift to 4x4) but it won't disengage unless I get crawl under and manually disengage it using a 12v source to pins 1 and 2.
 

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NorCal Chapter Pres
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You may have a problem with the actuator. Mine engages and disengages almost instantly. Always has.

I also did the "2lo" mod where you disconnect the blue harness on the driver side of the tcase. It's a cheap twin stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I did some reading and a lot of people fixed their problem by testing the switches on the actuator or the t-case and if one was bad replace it and problem fixed. I tested all my switches and everything checks out good. So I did a little more reading and tested my actuator manually and I can make it lock and unlock using a 12v + and - wire so it seems the actuator is ok (I think). Which lead me to believe the front actuator was my current problem. If you have any suggestions for me that'd be great.
 
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