TTORA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Following Taco Dells write up

Here:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141220

Before I go Doing it and screwing things up I wanted to double Check. This is how I interpreted his write up.



First Grind off the "Bumps" on the tracks.

2 on the front of one track.


The other 2 on the front of the other track.


4 on the back of both tracks.


Grind off the Rivet head on the front of both tracks. Seen at the bottom of the picture. Black little nub.



This is the part I wanted to make sure about. The "bearing cage" Putting the screw driver into the [][][][] and pushing the "bearing cage" out towards the front of the rails.

In the pictures i think its the Little silver thing with 2 bearings (gold/bronze)


<<<--- You can see me moving it to the left


<<<----


I believe there are 2 bearing cages on each rail/track. Once they are out then you can remove the bottom rail and swap them with Tacoma ones.

Mind you this is not the official write up. I wanted to make sure everything is correct before taking the tracks apart. But Since TacoDell doesn't have pictures I feel I can contribute to his write up once everything is confirmed. My official write up will be done on Video if not Photos.


Does this look right TacoDell?
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
Does this look right TacoDell?
looks good so far

go easy on those bearing cages... they bend outta shape easily

I had to roll the cage/bearing out in steps...
not in one single movement.
think I had to change holes with the screwdriver twice in order to push the assembly out the ends

and of course using the slide action of the lower mount was necessary to assist in pushing those clear.

sorry my instructions suck... LoL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
looks good so far

go easy on those bearing cages... they bend outta shape easily

I had to roll the cage/bearing out in steps...
not in one single movement.
think I had to change holes with the screwdriver twice in order to push the assembly out the ends

and of course using the slide action of the lower mount was necessary to assist in pushing those clear.

sorry my instructions suck... LoL
Well seems like I understood it quite well. Once replaced with Tacoma tracks I would have to put the "bumps" back into the proper places correct?
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
yep... reweld the bumps
as well as the rivet head(s)...

Make sure you weld them as tall as the orignals
taller then the original's won't cause issue, so no worry there.
careful not to burn thru on the rail(s)...
easily done ;)

this process obviously occurs during swap and reassembly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yep... reweld the bumps
as well as the rivet head(s)...

Make sure you weld them as tall as the orignals
taller then the original's won't cause issue, so no worry there.
careful not to burn thru on the rail(s)...
easily done ;)

this process obviously occurs during swap and reassembly
Thanks TacoDell i'll be taking this on after finals!
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
oh and a lil' trick I used to get a good weld, in where the rivet lay...

using a die grinder and carbide bit...
I ground a circular opening at the topside of the rail(s), opening up the track directly above where the soon to be, welded, rivet head's lay.

this made it much easier to reweld the rivet heads well and solid
it won't affect the rails strength or their slide action...

*U can use a lil' mo heat fo 'da rivet... then was used fo 'da the bumps on the seat rail

**remember...
remove only enough material, so the mig nozzle will fit in 'dere :D

well, only helpful, if U might be using a mig...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
oh and a lil' trick I used to get a good weld, in where the rivet lay...

using a die grinder and carbide bit...
I ground a circular opening at the topside of the rail(s), opening up the track directly above where the soon to be, welded, rivet head's lay.

this made it much easier to reweld the rivet heads well and solid
it won't affect the rails strength or their slide action...

*U can use a lil' mo heat fo 'da rivet... then was used fo 'da the bumps on the seat rail

**remember...
remove only enough material, so the mig nozzle will fit in 'dere :D

well, only helpful, if U might be using a mig...
Hobart 110v Gas Mig :welder: Thanks TacoDell!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Bumps?

Anyone ever thought or tried rivets or bolts to replace the bump stops? I figure reduce the welding on thin metal close to cloth you wish to keep could be helpful. :dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,898 Posts
Ehh, I didn't have too much of an issue with splatter on the seat cloth, and I used flux core. And I did my seat swap differently than Dell. I welded the scion upper tracks to the mounts I cut off of my taco buckets. There were plenty chances to torch the seat material and it didn't, for the most part. So, I wouldn't worry about that too much.

Ps, driving cross country right now. I would be dying if I still had the taco seats. These scion seats are comfy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Update!

Sorry no pictures and no video. I wanted to do that on the passenger side.

I did as TacoDell said and the tracks came apart easy. I was working alone and think that my have cause some problems/delays. It would have been nice to have someone holding the lock mechanism. Right now I have the Driver side seat bolted up, but the track doesn't slide. I have to take it apart again and see what I did wrong with the "bearing cages". I'm hoping it just needs to be greased, but I'm worried they are to deformed.

Seats are tall! I am 5'8" and I am about 3-4 inches from hitting the roof. On a side note I am able to see the factory clock now. I love the seats, only down side was not being able to slide which is not because of the seats.

Also TacoDell how did you manage to use the Scion seat belt buckle? I had to put the stock Tacoma one in.

On the passenger side I may just do it Scuba's way so I do not have to deal with the "slide" mechanism.
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
Update!
Also TacoDell how did you manage to use the Scion seat belt buckle? I had to put the stock Tacoma one in.
I used my oem belts and latch(s) from my original seats...
but also used the scion latch lowers (metal) cut and lap welded to my oem latches,
to extend those so they would sit a tad taller.

On the passenger side I may just do it Scuba's way so I do not have to deal with the "slide" mechanism.
You did use the Scion roller bearings and cages right ?
have you lubed the rails/roller bearing(s) yet ?

mine were a little sticky... on initial install and before lubing the rails/rollers...
currently... after some use... things seem to be moving easier...
and either occupant can adjust their seat with little issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
I'm interested in that video if you still going to do it for the passenger side. I hate my seats but going any higher is not an option. I'm 6'6" and 270lbs. I need all the room I can get in my little truck:rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I used my oem belts and latch(s) from my original seats...
but also used the scion latch lowers (metal) cut and lap welded to my oem latches,
to extend those so they would sit a tad taller.
I thought so. I was wondering how you got them so high.


You did use the Scion roller bearings and cages right ? Correct Scion Roller bearings and Cages

Have you lubed the rails/roller bearing(s) yet ?

Just went out and greased it with some "garage door grease". Slides maybe 1-2 clicks. Grease helped but I think my real problem now is that my bearings are already hitting the stoppers. I assume I would have to slide the rails all the way back and have the "cages" hitting the rear stopper. If not slide the tracks all the way forward and have the "cages" hitting the front stopper. When I put them in i didn't account for this. So now 1 cage is all the way forward already and the other cage is all the way back. Hence why it stops at 1-2 clicks.

mine were a little sticky... on initial install and before lubing the rails/rollers...
currently... after some use... things seem to be moving easier...
and either occupant can adjust their seat with little issue.
I'm glad it wasn't the rollers being deformed. Their are no replacement parts for these that I could find.

..

I'm interested in that video if you still going to do it for the passenger side. I hate my seats but going any higher is not an option. I'm 6'6" and 270lbs. I need all the room I can get in my little truck:rolleyes:
Well I here the TC seats are much lower. XB seats are the highest sitting scion seats. BUT! XB seats can be swapped in just by replacing the tracks. You still need a welder, but as TacoDell said you can swap back to stock if needed.
..
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
I'm interested in that video if you still going to do it for the passenger side. I hate my seats but going any higher is not an option. I'm 6'6" and 270lbs. I need all the room I can get in my little truck:rolleyes:

In yer case... You better be all legs and no neck... LoL

seriously tho', if yer long on the upper torso...
these seats will likely sit too high for you...

also... if you are long on leg...
you will likely want to relocate the center two stop bumps a little farther forward
because these, in their original location, limit rearward travel...
and I believe the seat(s) could be slid back about another 1 1/2"
if those bumps were relocated.

works fine for my body type/height 5' 10"... but I have found... these seats will roll too far forward then what is desirable.
Changing the location of the center stop bumps can effectively
limit forward travel a little more... and give a little more to the rearward slide.

FYI... because these seats sit a little taller...
the leg room distance required... is somewhat lesser then if the seats sat lower.

But the primary reason they can't go too much farther rearward...
is because... the lock mech would not be able to engage and lock the tracks
if they move to far to the rear.


These seats are great for large statured folk...
but they do sit somewhat on the tall side...
and it won't be an easy thing to get them to sit lower.
and so I wouldn't recommend them for the taller folk, long on torso.
and would instead... recommend looking for a lower fitting seat.

JMO n :2cents:
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
Well I here the TC seats are much lower. XB seats are the highest sitting scion seats. BUT! XB seats can be swapped in just by replacing the tracks. You still need a welder, but as TacoDell said you can swap back to stock if needed.
..
is it possible that the TC seats could be installed similarly ?

:dunno: 'cause I haven't had the opportunity.

Just went out and greased it with some "garage door grease". Slides maybe 1-2 clicks. Grease helped but I think my real problem now is that my bearings are already hitting the stoppers. I assume I would have to slide the rails all the way back and have the "cages" hitting the rear stopper. If not slide the tracks all the way forward and have the "cages" hitting the front stopper. When I put them in i didn't account for this. So now 1 cage is all the way forward already and the other cage is all the way back. Hence why it stops at 1-2 clicks.
you may need to relocate the center two bumps on each track.
those also are acting stops... not just the ones at each end.

I know my seats slide too far forward...
and should go a little more to the rear...

so's... it a probability I'll be pulling mine apart again...
and relocating the center bumps... or maybe even omitting one of them and just using a single...

won't know... 'til I know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,562 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
is it possible that the TC seats could be installed similarly ?

:dunno: 'cause I haven't had the opportunity.



you may need to relocate the center two bumps on each track.
those also are acting stops... not just the ones at each end.

I know my seats slide too far forward...
and should go a little more to the rear...

so's... it a probability I'll be pulling mine apart again...
and relocating the center bumps... or maybe even omitting one of them and just using a single...

won't know... 'til I know
Isn't that why scuba didn't do the Rail swap? Or he was being lazy?

Yea Looking at it now I can fully understand how these things work. Passenger side should be a little easier.

I'll be pulling apart mine tomorrow with the help of my brother.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top