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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Been reading up on spacers and still have some questions. Looking to level the truck (possible lift the rear a bit with shackles, not don't want to go over 3" up front). Want to keep stock shocks (at least for now). Tires will stay stock size, and wheeling will consist of fire roads, and very light rock wheeling. Nothing crazy at all.

First, what is the most lift I can go with on the stock TRD shocks? Front and rear?

Can I do 3" with just spacers, or do I need other crap (like diff drop, brake line extension, prop valve bracket, etc)? Seem to be getting mixed answers to this question so far)

Who makes the tallest strut spacer (seems like Daystar does, but I'm not sure), so I can keep a closer to stock ride?

As I see it so far:
Daystar: Cheap, but tends to sag over time, better ride because of more spacer on top of strut and less on top of spring
Toytec: Good quality, but all the spacing is in the coil, therefore stiff ride.
Revtek: Good quality, but expensive.
Cornfed: Looks like all the spacer is in the coil (haven't found a good pic)
Tundra coils: requires new shocks, therefore expensive and impractical for me
Nitrous Enterprises: Don't think they will fit the Taco, right?

Seems like Daystars is the best bet for me, but not sure. I will probably go with daystar shackles if I do the rear at all, unless someone has a better idea.

TIA
 

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Wow, ok. 4wp messed up my order and gave me the wrong shocks when I got my lift, so I had to run the stock shocks for a day. Basically they will work, but drasticly limit flex.

3" up front will be level with 2.5" in the rear. So you will need a combo of things to make that work. 2.5" shackles would be.. just don't, please. 1" AAL along with a 1.5" shackle will get your 2.5". Keep in mind shackles will de-arc your springs at a faster rate.

I am running 3.5" of lift without a diff drop (just removed it). The diff drop was a good idea in theory but it didn't pay off. I find the biggest factor is keeping dirt off the fins. Lifting will cause things to wear out faster; period. Ball joints, CV boots, and various other tid bits will need to more attending to. If that is too much of a hassle, then lifting isn't for you.

Spacers, Cornfed or Toytec, both are club members and will treat you right.

Brake lines, Front will be fine, rear: My dcab was fine with the stock line until I rebuilt my leaf packs (which is also an option for you) which travel 13". My extracab buddy needed to extend his rear brake line with Deaver 3 leaf add packs, and a 1" shackle. So it seems that the double cabs have a longer line.

BPV bracket: YES. you need to raise the lower mount whatever inches you lift the rear end. you lift 2.5" you need to raise the bpv 2.5".

Oh, and you will need to get your front end aligned after your suspension lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So if I just wanted to go with a 2.5" spacer and a 1.5" shackle, that would be basically level as well, right? I don't want an AAL (had them on my 83 yota, and hated the empty ride).

Is there a difference in the spacers? From the pics I have found, it seems that the daystars have a 1" spacer on top of the strut and the rest is made up between the coild and the top. The others seem to only use a coil spacer for the 2.5" spacers, and only add the strut spacer for the 3" kits. Is this right?

Is the bpv reloc needed with just 1.5" shackles? I don't think the daystar "kit" comes with them.

I just worry about the ride being too stiff with the 2.5" coil spacers.

EDIT: This set up (the front part) will work on a taco, right? http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/Tundra_Coils.html Has anyone here tried it? Probably out of my budget for now, but just curious.
 

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anestech* said:
Been reading up on spacers and still have some questions. Looking to level the truck (possible lift the rear a bit with shackles, not don't want to go over 3" up front). Want to keep stock shocks (at least for now). Tires will stay stock size, and wheeling will consist of fire roads, and very light rock wheeling. Nothing crazy at all.
Why don't you want to replace your shocks? If you're gonna be lifting your truck, then why not do it right? It's like saying "I want to make lots of money, but I don't want to work (at least for now)." Sure you can run your stock shocks with a mild lift, but why? They'll become the limiting factor, and you'll be taking a chance on blowing 'em every time you go wheeling... even if it's just light rock crawling and/or trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
synovus said:
Why don't you want to replace your shocks? If you're gonna be lifting your truck, then why not do it right? It's like saying "I want to make lots of money, but I don't want to work (at least for now)." Sure you can run your stock shocks with a mild lift, but why? They'll become the limiting factor, and you'll be taking a chance on blowing 'em every time you go wheeling... even if it's just light rock crawling and/or trails.
Mainly because I am being cheap. ;)

I sold a fairly heavily built jeep ZJ (6" lift, long arms, etc) to get the taco, and don't want to trash another daily driver.

If I did shocks, what do you guys recommend. OME was the ideal option for small lifts on ZJs and WJs, so I know they make good stuff. Also like Bilstein 5100s, but don't know if they make anything for the front (or the rear, for that matter).
 

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anestech* said:
Mainly because I am being cheap. ;)

I sold a fairly heavily built jeep ZJ (6" lift, long arms, etc) to get the taco, and don't want to trash another daily driver.

If I did shocks, what do you guys recommend. OME was the ideal option for small lifts on ZJs and WJs, so I know they make good stuff. Also like Bilstein 5100s, but don't know if they make anything for the front (or the rear, for that matter).
LOL... well, if you don't want to trash it, then I'd suggest doing it right and getting shocks when you do your lift. Otherwise you're flirting with doing exactly what you say you don't want to do.

OME makes good shocks, but most people that run them do so in conjunction with the OME front replacement coils (880's, 881's, or 882's) or the OME rear leaf packs. The Bilstein 5100's are a very popular shock for the Tacoma rear, and ride very well. There is also the 5125's and the 5150's, which I believe are available in a softer valving than the 5100's. I'm not sure what the model number is for the aftermarket front Bilstein's. Most people refer to them as the Bilstein HD's. You may want to start a thread in the suspension folder and ask what the model number is for those, if they interest you. Alternatively, you could contact Jason at DeMello Offroad. I'm sure he'd be happy to let you know which shocks he'd recommend for your application/needs.

Good luck with whatever you end up going with. That was a great looking ZJ! Now it's time to make your Taco a ZJ eater!! :D
 

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anestech* said:
If I did shocks, what do you guys recommend. OME was the ideal option for small lifts on ZJs and WJs, so I know they make good stuff. Also like Bilstein 5100s, but don't know if they make anything for the front (or the rear, for that matter).
OME's are a good lift for the Taco, I'm running 881 coils (with one trim packer per side) and N91SC shocks up front, and shackles out back (Downey Rubicon shackles that is). Still no new rear shocks... The front set up was good for 2.25" after settling.

They're economical and ride much better than stock, but not as good as more expensive coil over units. I paid ~350 USD for the front set up, and 60 for the rear, I've yet to factor in about another 150 for rear shocks (going with Bil 5100's when I do).
 
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