Yeah but what do you do once it is out of Warranty. Seems Toyota should cover this untill the fix the REAL problem, poor design?
That totally makes sense to me, given your size. When I drove it, the first thing that struck me was how unnecessarily high the dash and roof are, how small the rear window is, and how high the side windows in and behind the doors are. Add it all up and I felt too short in it, like the seat needed to go up, not forward, but up. Visibility was terrible for me, and I'm almost 5'11". Mel is only 5'4", and she said she felt like she couldn't see out of it well enough to drive it safely. So at your stature, that makes total sense - it just fits you better.If I would fit comfortably in a Tacoma, I'd probably have one, but the inside of the FJ is sooooo much nicer with head/shoulder/leg room for me. That and it stays nice and cool with the vertical windscreen and white roof/light color. Other than the rear-end, I have had ZERO problems that weren't driver/abuse induced and I've gone places I never have gone before. When the time comes it would be cool to look at the axles on the new Tundras
Now I understand that the force is transfered across 3 teeth. Obviously. One coming into contact, one in direct contact, then one losing contact. With the larger pinions having more teeth and a larger radius the transfers are closer together making for a better sharing of force. This is just focusing on tooth strength though, but that seems to be the failing point.Not true - all will have 3 teeth in contact at any given time. The fewer teeth on the pinion make lower gears much more difficult to setup properly to ensure that proper contact though. The number of teeth also drives the diameter of the pinion and the thickness of the ring gear. I think it's funny when people on forums recommend people go with 5.29's instead of 5.71, when they both have 7 tooth pinions (and therefore almost identical dimensions)
See the link to Zuk's website above for pictures of the dimensions.
FYI, the seats do jack (a lot) up as well as fore and aft. I tend to pump it up a couple of inches when off-road to increase visibility. Of the few SA FJs I've seen I think Diamond Axles are the favored replacement, but I think there are a few different setups rolling around. LIke I said the new Tundra rear looks nice. Weight loss has been on my to-do list, but little time and money have prevented my dream from coming trueThat totally makes sense to me, given your size. When I drove it, the first thing that struck me was how unnecessarily high the dash and roof are, how small the rear window is, and how high the side windows in and behind the doors are. Add it all up and I felt too short in it, like the seat needed to go up, not forward, but up. Visibility was terrible for me, and I'm almost 5'11". Mel is only 5'4", and she said she felt like she couldn't see out of it well enough to drive it safely. So at your stature, that makes total sense - it just fits you better.
Based on the last post, it sounds like the solution instead of beefing the rear axle and diff is trimming the fat on your FJC. Seeing as how wheelers tend to add weight in armor, etc, I doubt that's a very practical solution. Guess you could remove the back seats and save 50-60lbs? Not gonna help much. Yeah, like I say, putting in a new R&P every 5 months wouldn't work for me.
What do the massive SASed FJC's run for the rear end to get around this weakness? Ford 9-inch? Diamond Axles? Tundy Axles? There's gotta be a solution. These fabricators are highly skilled and creative people who work magic in their shops... assuming you've got the green, I'd be willing to bet someone out there would be able to put in a beefier rear diff/axle for you. Like the fatkid says, it might suck making another axle work, but if you really like the rig and really don't want to keep replacing the R&P, and you're gonna keep wheeling it like you do, seeking out a solution is just something you're going to have to do some day. Good luck.
Oddly, the ATRAC by itself is very effective in many situations, but you might be right that in conjunction with the rear locker it might be detrimental, especially when pushing all that weight. I wonder if that's why they kept them independent in the first run FJs? I hacked mine (shhh), but the next iterations (late 07s and 08+) all have the ability to use both simultaneously without the hack...With high gear ratios (like 3.73), the ring gear is the weak point, with low ratios (like 5.71) the pinion becomes the weak point. SO if you need maximum strength, it seems 4.56 or 4.88 is the sweetspot.
Eric - I think there's a lot that could be done to help the rear R&P survive. First would be to truss the axle housing, with a specific focus on keeping the ring the third bolts to from deflecting at all. Next would be a real front locker - I think the herky-jerkiness of the ATRAC acts as a damage multiplier by shock loading the drivetrain.
Eric, it looks like you rear differential was rebuilt previously. I found some marks that are not "Toyota" on the bearing caps and pinion nut. Not sure if it is a true measurment but the backlash is around .013" on the good part of the ring gear.
No kidding. I wonder if they regeared your third member (and did it poorly) instead of ordering in a new Toyota-built one. Are they Toyota gears, or somethng aftermarket? That's probably the only recourse you would have regarding the warranty as I'm sure it has "repair or replace at Toyota's option" in the fine print somewhere.That's curious.
Agreed, but it's all one big chunk of metal - at some point that deflection translates to the mounting ring, and if you can hold that better, you minimize the amount the the third itself can move. Diamond housings build this mounting flange out of 1/4" for this reason.Trussing the axle won't help, as the flex is internal to the third. Its literally the carrier bearing towers flexing away as the pinion drives into the ring gear.
I saw that sitting behind him waiting for a go at it while you guys were digging and thought to myself 'Holy Shit!'. I think he's got everything but the sink!Having first hand knowledge of the weight that Eric's Truck could loose(Doug and I were digging in the back for something he needed while he was on the first obstacle) YOu could easily shift 100 lbs. out of the rear end of that rig.
The pinion deflects alot when you add big tires, ultra low gearing, and weight.[/QUOTE]
:eek: Thats what my front ARB carrier looked like chewed up like that! Pinion deflection is doing that? Im only on 35's WITH a Diamond housing, 4:88's! :eek: Everything you guys mentioned on this thread (that I picked up) Ive done that "should" have prevented this. What gives? My rear does not show this problem.
So what we did was clearance the casing by using a flap wheel to take it down to the low spots, and also took a bit off the pinion gear. It clears now anyway.
I thought it was a bad setup on the gears, but the pattern was good. So removing material seemed like the way to correct it. :confused: