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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will let the pics do the talking...

Rear end went up almost 2 inches with shackle mod from before...

Axle housing tubing provides strength and prevents axle flexing under full torque...











Before with same Deaver 9-pack:



After with same Deaver 9-pack:

 

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A couple of observations.

The angle of the shackle looks almost vertical with springs that are flat. If you get new springs that have an arch it's going to pull that shackle back into possibly a bad (worse) position.

Maybe I'm wrong, so feel free to correct me, but the rear supports welded to the diff don't really have any forces to control do they? If they do actually see a load, then the welds at the diff cover may not live because it is so thin. I like the overhead truss
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A couple of observations.

The angle of the shackle looks almost vertical with springs that are flat. If you get new springs that have an arch it's going to pull that shackle back into possibly a bad (worse) position.

Maybe I'm wrong, so feel free to correct me, but the rear supports welded to the diff don't really have any forces to control do they? If they do actually see a load, then the welds at the diff cover may not live because it is so thin. I like the overhead truss
Here is a pic of the springs just after install, they are flat by design, I do not want a huge lift out of the rear that will disrupt the driveline angles...



Trust me these Deavers are solid springs, I jump curbs with the rear sometimes and do not feel a thing from the rear, very solid springs...

They were designed to carry payload above the factory setup, factory was 1,300 lbs.-ish, I am now over 2,000 lbs. with this setup and the OME 200 lbs. coils up front...
 

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You can get the same amount of lift by using arched springs, and it doesn't have to be excessive if the spring is designed right. Getting the lift as you did though will actually cause more pinion rotation than using an arched spring. You can draw the geometry out and see what I mean. Just something you might want to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Negative arch at ride hieght is not fine.
These springs were designed and engineered by Jeff at Deaver who builds many springs for off-road racing applications...

He built 20 copies of what I have installed on my 2010...

Unless you build and design your own springs, I will let Jeff be the expert in this matter. He would not sell me custom springs with a heavier payload rating at the height I wanted if it was not going to work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can get the same amount of lift by using arched springs, and it doesn't have to be excessive if the spring is designed right. Getting the lift as you did though will actually cause more pinion rotation than using an arched spring. You can draw the geometry out and see what I mean. Just something you might want to check.
I worked with an off-road racing shop to get it to work, he builds short course off-road racing trucks up to Pro-4's...

We are trying this setup for now and if they sag down the road, we will design a custom stronger shackle for the rear...

The issue was the front with OME 886 coils raised the front 3 inches with Camburg UCA's with no sagging after install. I expected some sagging once it was instroduced to the weight of the front bumper and complete BudBuilt steel plates underneath, but nothing happened and it remains at round 3 inches up front for the last 6 months...

That threw off my plans for a moderate lift for the rear with my spring design with Deaver. So this was a quick mod to correct that..
 

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well the truck sits level and thats what matters. all the extra wieght is held at a different height than stock and as long as it acts stock for the weight its doping its purpose. If I could have a stock riding TRUE lift spring id be super stoked. nothing rides better than stock unless YOUR stock is worn the fuck out.
 

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These springs were designed and engineered by Jeff at Deaver who builds many springs for off-road racing applications...

He built 20 copies of what I have installed on my 2010...

Unless you build and design your own springs, I will let Jeff be the expert in this matter. He would not sell me custom springs with a heavier payload rating at the height I wanted if it was not going to work...
Yeah, I have no clue what I'm taking about.........I wouldn't put bumpstops on it either, I hear they kill your flex.
 

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Yeah, I have no clue what I'm taking about.........I wouldn't put bumpstops on it either, I hear they kill your flex.
dude just cuz YOU THINK you know what your talking abt all the time doesnt mean you might be wrong dude. Why would a known heavy duty/heavy flex spring shop make a spring that doesnt perform dude? if it didnt Im sure the OP wouldve sent the shits back man. its not abt what you want your rig to do its what makes the OP HAPPIER. If he can haul an ass ton more then you but give up a few ins in flex who cares man. You aint driving ithe truck and he aint bitching abt yours so who cares. If you aint helping out why do you people post dumb shit or shit that doesnt help anybody, I dont get it.
 

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Not to question the work of Deaver...too much. But has "Jeff" seen them on the truck? These guys here aren't trying to say they know more than the experts, but they sure do know when shit just isn't looking right. For some comparison, I too have a set of custom Deaver 9pack set at 1.5" lift. Now I don't have a second gen taco, but leafs are leafs....and shouldn't be flat yet alone negative. Just my :2cents:
 

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Negative arch kills leaf springs period the fact that yours are flat at ride height and you have no bump stops will only serve to kill them faster. Your second major problem is your shackle angle at full droop you don't really want it going much past 85* or so or you run the risk if the shackle inverting into the frame when the spring flattens back out you need to move your shackle mounts forward or run a shorter shackle to correct this the later being ill advised as it will begin to serverly limit your suspension travel.
 
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