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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if this is a newb question, but I figure you guys would be the ones to ask about shock disassembly.

I have 14" bilstein 9100 rockcrawlers with the remote reservoirs. THe fitting coming out of the shock body is straight and I want to change it to a 90 deg fitting so I can get the reservoirs out of my engine bay.

I have all of the aeroquip fittings to change it over, but I need some advice.

I have already let the pressure off the shocks and had to crack one of the fittings to check the size when I was buying the other ones. A little oil leaked out, but not too much. I need to get this done asap, so if you guys can offer any advice or pointers on making sure not to get any air into the system, I would appreciate it. Any other info would be appreciated as well
 

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Sorry I don't know anything about what you are doing. But, I thought I woud throw it out there that I have two 14 Bilstien 5100s for sale. They are new. If you're interested send me a PM.
Other than that, good luck, hopefully you can figure it out but I have never messed with rebuilding shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, really I just want to get this done so I can get up to the Motorcycle shop before 6 for a nitrogen charge. Anyone else?
 

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When we rebuilt the Kings on the race truck we followed that video to the Tee which was very informative. The only thing that we messed up on (but you learn from experience) is that when we refilled with oil.....we didn't fill up high enough. We kind of followed what the vid had.....and that caused some air pockets.
 

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Yea take your time when filling the oil, same concept when you put oil in your filter when changing oil, pour, settle, repeat :D
 

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no, we like to make a mess everywhere. It's more entertaining to have the shop bitch clean up. haha. Yeah, we filled, then did the turn over technique, but didn't add a little more. Live and learn.
 

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Hate to say it but if you took the fitting off you are going to lose oil, obviously you did, and to get it air tight you are pretty much going to have to dissasemble the shock and fill from the bottom... depends on how much you care about exactly air tight or close.
King told me for little top offs that ATF would work...
Your other option is to try getting the little air pockets out through the reservoir, but thats kind of difficult too- either way you are going to have to dissassemble something to get all the air out.
Little air bubbles will cause cavitation and end up destroying the internals- how much air, how you run the shocks... may be nuances, either way I don't know what level is safe/unsafe for the shock.
Why can't you get the res out of the engine bay, why do you care, etc? I'm fixing to run mine up into the engine bay, so just curious if I should change it or think about ordering 90's from the get go.
 

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Tanto said:
He may be trying to keep his oil as cool as possible by moving his resevoir away from the engine.

Obviously this is not as important a factor in your case with that floating toothpick setup you've got, Wes :D

Floating toothpick? The question is about reasonable gains, not physical factors genius- his inner fenders are cut to shit, how much warmer do you really think it is under the hood right there, than in the fender right there? Is he moving the oil alot, as in desert racing, or just crawling along like the pictures hes posted of his wheeling since swap. Point being that for a crawler thats opened up to the elements anyway I don't think its an important factor in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wes said:
Hate to say it but if you took the fitting off you are going to lose oil, obviously you did, and to get it air tight you are pretty much going to have to dissasemble the shock and fill from the bottom... depends on how much you care about exactly air tight or close.
King told me for little top offs that ATF would work...
Your other option is to try getting the little air pockets out through the reservoir, but thats kind of difficult too- either way you are going to have to dissassemble something to get all the air out.
Little air bubbles will cause cavitation and end up destroying the internals- how much air, how you run the shocks... may be nuances, either way I don't know what level is safe/unsafe for the shock.
Why can't you get the res out of the engine bay, why do you care, etc? I'm fixing to run mine up into the engine bay, so just curious if I should change it or think about ordering 90's from the get go.
the way I had them set up, they were sitting on the cross brace I have running on top of my engine. I wanted to move them for two reasons:
1) I didn't want them so close to the motor anymore.I felt like the reservoirs were getting too hot.
2) Everytime I close my hood they hit a little......enough to have made a couple outward dents on the hood.

I probably will have to redo this but what I did for now is
-extended the shock
-depressurized it
-changed the fittings being careful not to lose oil
-I Compressed the shock and as soon as a little oil started to come out, I sealed it shut

I know this prob won't work but it seems to drive fine so far.
 

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Thanks Tweeter, i like the DIY video by KING...but i cant hear worth a damn with all that background noise! haha
 
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