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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm still very new to this, please educate. This summer im planning on adding the donahoe chubby bump stops front and rear, and the donahoe rear res shocks to my current susp(check sig for what i got). Deaver will also be rearching/retuning my 8 leafs for about 1 inch less ride height in the rear. They said that they can retune the leafs to whatever specs i want including how soft or stiff they are. Now to my questions...

I only care about going fast in the dezert, so i want my system tuned only for the dezert + street(of course). How do I make sure that my system is tuned correctly? How do i make sure that the bumps wont be engaged too early? How do I make sure that the deavs, hoe rear res, and chubbys are working in unison together, as well as the hoe coilovers and chubbys up front are working together? Do i want my deavers to be softer or stiffer for the dez? Are there shops that can do specific tuning?

I want to be able to squeeze as much performance out of my non-LT setup as possible. Please educate me. Thanks.
 

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The Donahoe coilovers are already tuned for your truck. I have no knowledge of their "chubby" bump stops but I'm going to intelligently assume that, if mounted in the correct location, will not need to be tuned and will work in unison with the coilovers (the only "tuning" you can do to a normal hydro bump is adding or subtracting nitrogen). Re-arching your leafs multiple times is impractical from a tuning standpoint, so pretty much your only tuning options are to revalve your Donahoe resi's, which I think are pretty much tuned correctly right out of the box.

Moral of the story: If you want "tunability", you're gonna have to go LT or at least get some bypasses...
 

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I know Dhoe offers a tuned Chubbie bump to work with their coilovers, but if you already know that youre gonna try to tune your truck more, you might as well go with the cheaper Light Racinig bumps. They are exactly the same except that its red and theyre not tuned for your coilovers. and theyre way cheaper. Just mess around with the nitrogen in the bump until your satisfied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys. yea i realize that the bumps are tuned to work with the COs. But, what about the rear? Say i wanted to add/subtract nitrogen from the bump stop in the rear, is that something i can do easily on my own? Is there a chance i can fawk something up and ruin the stop, or is it pretty fool proof? Also how do i make sure that the stops are mounted in the correct location? Since they have to be welded on, technically i have many spots and positions where i, or the installer, can weld them in.

Also, Baja, I understand that rearching the leafs to tune is impractical, that is why getting it right the first time is important. So would you recommend making it softer than the "stock" 8 leaf deaver or stiffer? What would work best at higher speeds, stiffer or softer? Or am i mis-understanding something?
 

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Here i got this from the susp. section. It was written by LightRacing....it looks like you shouldnt worry about mounting, cause if your mounting point is a lil off you can adjust the bump to your likeing. If i were you i would just grab the cheaper LR bumps and fiddle around with the compression and rebound (which i have to say is a pretty bitchin feature, its almost like a bypass) good luck


Cnote74-
Tuning is a matter of opinion. Both Donahoe and Light Racing have years of experience with tuning suspensions but that doesn't mean that we would both tune the same suspension the same way. Both the Light Racing and the Donahoe JounceShock systems are custom tuned for each vehicle. But I don't know what changes Donahoe has made. Having said that the units are the easiest hydraulic bumpstops on the market to tune. That was one of the main design parameters. The damping is controlled by two allen screws that can easily be reached with the units on the vehicle (the two screws control compression and rebound independently). Changing the pressure requires removing the units from the vehicle but with our mounting systems that is easily accomplished as well. So if you don't like how they are tuned you can easily change their feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks man, that helps. But what if i take too much pressure out? how do i re-fill so to speak? Also, how do you like those donahoe rear reservoirs?
 

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thanks guys. yea i realize that the bumps are tuned to work with the COs. But, what about the rear? Say i wanted to add/subtract nitrogen from the bump stop in the rear, is that something i can do easily on my own? Is there a chance i can fawk something up and ruin the stop, or is it pretty fool proof? Also how do i make sure that the stops are mounted in the correct location? Since they have to be welded on, technically i have many spots and positions where i, or the installer, can weld them in.

Also, Baja, I understand that rearching the leafs to tune is impractical, that is why getting it right the first time is important. So would you recommend making it softer than the "stock" 8 leaf deaver or stiffer? What would work best at higher speeds, stiffer or softer? Or am i mis-understanding something?
Adding/subtracting nitrogen is easy - just like putting air in a tire, but watch the gauge to get the exact psi you want. You won't mess up a bump stop, they're pretty simple. As far as location goes you want them to be mounted to where they bottom out completely (on the axle) right at or just before the shock bottoms out. Make sure the strike area is strong and/or reinforced.

The stock Deaver replacement pack is great right out of the box. I would leave it and if adjustments need to be made, do it with the shocks.
 
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