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Discussion Starter #1
SOOOOOO its going to happen and soon. I have a few short questions as always. what would a remote res shock do for me?



My other question.

I remember volcom had 14inch hoops and shocks on his rig. Will doing this effect my compression travel or do anything for droop over the 12inch hoops and 12inch shocks? Im thinking about going with the 14inch stuff to give me room to mod and change later because i cant see a change. Im going to be limiting compression travel to prevent back arch in the spring and cutting some if need be. I think i should be ok tho.

Daily drivin in winter months, Wheeled hard and put away wet(no really i dont dry it and do wash it after every run) I want a soft ride and predictable suspension. I also want it to last. I want to beable to mod the rest of my truck and enjoy it. Will they last longer being remote res?

The other part of the question is... If i take the triangulated shock set up off the rear(been planning on for a while) and dont go remote res am i going ot have the issue i did before where the leafs dent the hell out of my shocks? I think that right there is enough to make me want to do them


Post up cause if everything is as planned im ordering this shiz today.
 

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I don't know crap about modified suspensions, or I'd speak up.

I will say that you don't want to go over 550# springs on the front, if you want a decent ride.
 

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With my front flex, I use what a 12" shock would give me. If you use a 12" shock and hoop, you have to be dead on in terms of getting it up to minimize shock damage from topping them out or bottoming them out.

The 14" hoops are a PITA to install. You have to cut some big holes in the inner fenders. I lost a place to mount my steering reservoir (need to make a bracket this winter along with making a bigger reservoir). But the 14's give you some wiggle room in terms of getting them setup without worrying about shock damage. I personally would stick with the 5125 over the 5150. I don't think you'll need the extra couple of ounces that semi-remote shock reservoir would give you (unless you're bajaing the truck up some rough roads at a high rate of speed.)

I've enjoyed my 5100's, they are good shocks!
 

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My understanding also is that remote reservoirs are more for Baja driving. The only other issue I have had has been with my front OME struts and too much droop, after which I blew one of the inner seals.
 

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Remote resevoirs are for heat. If you plan on cycling the suspension fast and for long periods, they make a lot of sense.

I am going to disagree and say that I don't like Bilsteins. Very stiff ride. Also, I blew one out after only 3 years. Long before it should have.
 

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I am going to disagree and say that I don't like Bilsteins. Very stiff ride. Also, I blew one out after only 3 years. Long before it should have.
wow yours lasted 3 yrs., i blew all 4 of mine 5 days after my truck left the show room
 

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I also would go with something other than the billys. They are to stiff, and to expensive for my liking. I actually prefer the ride of cheaper dual tube low pressure shocks.
 

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The only benefit to a small piggyback like that is to decrease the necessary length of the body...check the Bili charts but it should be shorter & therefore easier to fit.

You need a spring rate to match the weight of the truck, and valving to match the spring rate. If the springs are wrong, the shock won't ever be able to work properly to control the truck...a quick way to get a feel for this is bump your tire pressure up to the max listed on the sidewall and go driving just long enough to let the suckitude register (the shock is handling the leaves and the air spring in each tire, not just leaves...change tire pressure to change the total spring rate).

Check out the length on those piggyback bodies, you might not need as much hoop as you think.

Maybe I'm reading between the lines but did you say you have some sort of A-frame setup in the rear?

Personally...after having made a couple shock-related mistakes...I'd recommend pulling apart the leaf pack and cycling the suspension to see just how much travel you're really pulling, then buy shocks.

You could always get a set of BBCS :xpimp:.
 

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Personally...after having made a couple shock-related mistakes...I'd recommend pulling apart the leaf pack and cycling the suspension to see just how much travel you're really pulling, then buy shocks.
x2 - I would never buy another set of shocks for an offroad truck without doing this. My rear shocks absolutely kill the travel. I SO wish I had measured first.

Also, I was of the understanding that a remote reservoir would have longer travel in a shorter body since the fluid has somewhere to go.
 

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What would be the purpose of tearing down the leaf pack to figure out travel? Wouldn't the fully assembled leafpack provide the same travel?

Or does pulling leaves out allow it to travel easier, just making it easier to cycle the suspension?

Also, after you determine that your leaves allow for x" of travel, do you then buy shocks that provide x" travel? or do you modify x somehow (x+2")?

Sure I could search and figure it out myself, but asking you guys is much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had to get them at the time of the leaf purchase and went with the non remote res shocks. I found they are mounted with the shaft down so the leaf will have no issues.
 

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You look at the lengths and get the next closest shock based on compression. Compressing a shock is much worse than extending it all the way.

I would think that taking leaves out just makes it easier to cycle it all the way ... in theory, you could take the springs out completely after you get the bumpstops set as the springs shouldn't be what's limiting your downtravel
 

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My rear shocks absolutely kill the travel. I SO wish I had measured first.
You and me both :mad:. I popped the seal cover off one of my 7100s from hitting it one too many times. Not gonna happen again!
pulling leaves out allow it to travel easier, just making it easier to cycle the suspension?
Exactly...the main leaf (and your shackle configuration) is what determines the limits of vertical travel, and with only the main leaf it's easy to cycle with nothing more than a floor jack.
Also, after you determine that your leaves allow for x" of travel, do you then buy shocks that provide x" travel? or do you modify x somehow (x+2")?
You look at the lengths and get the next closest shock based on compression. Compressing a shock is much worse than extending it all the way.
Yup. But there are three sorts of setups...there's stock-class, where you're limiting yourself to the OEM shock mounts on the frame, or under the bed or whatever, and then there's the bootyfab special where you take the longest possible shock and stick it at (I swear) the worst possible angle for damping and then claim it's the dog's gonads (for example that A-frame bullshit, the extreme rearward lean, and other travesties), and then there's the all-out, don't care what you cut, long shock in a near-1:1 travel ratio. So decide if you're working with the first or third category and you'll know if you need to base it on compressed length as Troy said, or if you need to find a shock with at least the vertical travel available from your springs. Ideally you want a shock that neither collapses nor hangs...1/2" or so of remaining shaft travel (vs wheel travel) at each extreme is about perfect.

You do need the springs in place to locate the shock since a leaf sprung axle doesn't travel in the same path as a link suspension and the shock will be most effective when it's placed in line with the tangent to wheel travel at full compression--the point when the springs are storing the most energy is when you need the most damping.

There's a lot more but that's the basics.

Pull apart the leaf pack, cycle the suspension, decide if you're gonna use stock mounts. If not, decide if you want to try and reach a 1:1 motion ratio or if you're gonna do something strange with valving and bypasses to try and make something work off-axis. Don't be putting massive angles in there, you lose damping as the springs compress, which is exactly when you need it most. So no A-frames, no bizarre rearward leans, no bullshit...the safest way is like Troy described. The best way involves a little :saw: and :welder:.

Una can probably add a lot of information to this.

-Sean
 

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I've got my rear shocks angled in. Only way to fit long shocks under a 4Runner without cutting holes in the rear cargo area. It works OK. I don't get too much rear sway or lean. It gets me by until I can bend up a rear shock hoop and cut some holes in the tub to poke some shocks through.
 

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Shit, I'm angling mine in. I just don't seem to see the problem with it. My truck rides like shit on the highway as it is... About 80% of some REALLY nicely built trucks have the same damn thing. I'll give it a shot...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
With the bilsteins, Russ would be about right at half damping.
Ya think?I noticed more axle wrap then i had before on the shock set up. I noticed with a load in it the truck was bouncy and tippy as hell. It rode nice with out a load in it but not great i guess. Some bumps were killer some were soft. I think part of it could be my muffler dumping out right before them so they would be hot then cold...I noticed side hilling always felt sketch and felt like it was ready to unload at anytime. I know the Bilsteins are stiffer then most after running them for years on my german cars b ut i know they are good quality so im not scared to run em.

In all honesty im going back because i didnt see enough in flex or in seat comfort to worry about doing something crazy like that. I feel toyota did it that way and it worked so i might as well...Id go either way on it but for me i like a bit more stability even if it is a bit stiffer. The truck is predictable and even tho ride quality suffered a bit im adding the bed,Tire carrier and topper and rear armor so i will get it back in the rear with the weight. Im trying for light but i understand its going get heavy having a loaded rig thats armored up to prevent killing the perfect paint.
 
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