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I just installed a fabtech 3.5" suspension and i wanted more clearance so would you guys that have them recommend a 2 or 3" body lift?
 

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If you feel that you do need a body lift to make more room for bigger tires, I'd go with the 2", or even a 1". But without knowing what size tire you're running, or planning on running, it's hard to say.

I'm a big fan of the maximum tire, minimum lift philosophy. You want to keep your COG as low as possible.
 

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TexasTRD said:
i plan on running the 33x12.50 15's... what will look better the 2 or 3 inch?
assuming you fix the bumper brackets to hide the gaps, there's not much difference in "looks", IMHO

i have a 1" BL from roger brown. check his site out and do a lot of reading.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

with a 1" BL, you *might* have to make adjustments to thinks like fuel neck, fan shroud, shifters, etc.

with a 2" you do the fuel neck at the very least

with a 3" you definitely have to do them all

so looks aren't your only concern here.
 

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TexasTRD said:
i plan on running the 33x12.50 15's... what will look better the 2 or 3 inch?
i have my suspension at 2.5" and a 2" bl. with 33x12.5's on 15x8's with a 3.75 bs... I rub like crazy in the rear... or i did untill the tires ate the fenderflairs. I wish I would have gone with a 3". I might still change... the front doesn't rub much anymore, but if you get your alignment shop to alingn your tires forward a bit, you'll clear the 33's up front easy on the pinchweld. Even with 3.75 bs i rub on the frame at full turn.

good luck.
 

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I would do the 3" body lift. I have a 3' suspension and 3" body with 33x12.50 and they fit fine. With the 3" you just have to flip the rear bumper brackets to match the bumper with the body, which is a such cleaner look than leaving the gap.
 

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Wgasa84 said:
i have my suspension at 2.5" and a 2" bl. with 33x12.5's on 15x8's with a 3.75 bs... I rub like crazy in the rear... or i did untill the tires ate the fenderflairs. I wish I would have gone with a 3". I might still change... the front doesn't rub much anymore, but if you get your alignment shop to alingn your tires forward a bit, you'll clear the 33's up front easy on the pinchweld. Even with 3.75 bs i rub on the frame at full turn.

good luck.
What tires are you running?
i'm going to get 33x12.5x15 with 3.75 bs dunlop mudrovers
and i have about 3" suspension and i'm only planing to put in 1" BL..
What Mod do i need to do besides the pinch weld...

because some of the members here said i would be able to clear the tires with little rubbing...

now i'm just confused...
 

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04RedLobster said:
What tires are you running?
i'm going to get 33x12.5x15 with 3.75 bs dunlop mudrovers
and i have about 3" suspension and i'm only planing to put in 1" BL..
What Mod do i need to do besides the pinch weld...

because some of the members here said i would be able to clear the tires with little rubbing...

now i'm just confused...

I would go with a 2" body lift. I think 285/75 (roughly ~33x11.5) are ok* on 4" of lift but not 33x12.5's. That is what I have gathered from reading on this subject, though I could be wrong.
 

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go for it

get a 3inch.
its the same amount of time and effort, and youll never regret being an inch short for tire clearance in the future.
 

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I have have a 3" CF lift and a 2" Roger Brown Body lift. I have 33x12.50x15 tires. I would have liked to have gone with the 3" body lift so i would not have to worry about cutting or hammering inside the fender. I rubbed at the beginning. I dont rub now as far as i know, but i havent done any major off-roading with the swaybars off since i beat and cut a bit on the inside of my wheel well.

Go 3" body
 

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04RedLobster said:
What tires are you running?
i'm going to get 33x12.5x15 with 3.75 bs dunlop mudrovers
and i have about 3" suspension and i'm only planing to put in 1" BL..
What Mod do i need to do besides the pinch weld...

because some of the members here said i would be able to clear the tires with little rubbing...

now i'm just confused...
BFG mt's. 33x12.5 on 15x8 3.75 bs.

the rear WAS bad because the 8leaf deaver leafs move the axle forward 1/2" and when flexing the axle moves forward even more.

each truck is different. It also depends on the year of your truck. the 01-04's have the plastic fender flairs which are thicker than the fiberglass ones.
 

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I have been around the net looking at all types of lift's, it looks like the best is the lift's involving cuting out part of Your frame (realy makes me cring to think about it) so I looked at body and cornfed lift but boots tear and body mount points crack. Other than riping out the front end for a solid axle is there something that Im missing?
 

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shredhead said:
I have been around the net looking at all types of lift's, it looks like the best is the lift's involving cuting out part of Your frame (realy makes me cring to think about it) so I looked at body and cornfed lift but boots tear and body mount points crack. Other than riping out the front end for a solid axle is there something that Im missing?
There's trade-offs with any lift. Boots do sometimes tear, but it's not a guaranteed thing. Neither are body mounts cracking. Most people don't need nor do they want the expense and complexity of a solid axle swap.
 

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1-1.5 or 2", 3" is a PITA and hard to hide the gap if you add an aftermaket f/r bumper, etc
 

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I've got the fabtech 3.5" with no bodylift and once i trimmed the fender wells a little i only get rub on the frame at full turn in one direction and a tiny rub in the rear only at full compresion. i run bfg mudders 33x12.50 on 15x8 wheels. im not too concerned about a little rubbing tho, i beat the hell outta my truck.
 
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