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Discussion Starter #1
I had posted before about my home made skid plate not mounting to my truck... Well, I had the rear bolt holes made longer to allow the bolt to fit into the nut. That worked, I got the plate up on the truck. On the driver side, there was no nut to screw the bolt into though. Must have been knocked off sometime. So, I can't weld, so i'll just throw a nut up there and tighten it up. The other issue was that it was touching where the alignment bolt/washers are. The only solution I can think is to cut the plate where it touches, but this leaves the washers more exposed. Should I be concerned about that. Here's some pics.





 

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Ok since no one has replied. Personally I don't think the rubbing is that good, rubbing the cam washer for the alignment could cause some issues down the road. Next problem I see is that if you're stuck on a rock or something and decide to back up. I think you're going to rip your skid plate off, the way it ends and points down in the picture you've shown. Third I still think you need some more support in the middle of the skid portion that is angled down, especially w/ the cross cut out. If you hit that I think you're going to cave it in pretty well. You've got the right idea, the fab just didn't work out this time. I'd say start over it'd be easier than modifying what you've already got if it's welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm, well i'm not going to start over. I would if I still had the resources to do it but I don't. I feel that this skid plate is 10 times better than the stock skid plate. Am I wrong here?

about it ending like that... if you look at budbuilts.. his ends the same way on the angled part.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/index.html

I think I will cut off the part of the skid that is in contact with those washers. This will expose the washers more.

The only other thing I can think of is to increase the bend angle at the front top by the bolts and the bend angle by the alignment washers. This will angle the front part more and bring it away from the bolts.
 

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Did the washers idea not drop it down enough?

I really don't think you want those alignment washers hanging out, one little "bink" and they are bent and will have to be replaced with the next alignment.

From the looks of the side pics, if you use your skid your going to bend the alignment washers under the A arm bracket. :(


Somehow either fabricating a bracket on the top of the skid that lines up with the OEM bracket points to drop it down or rebending the skid there needs to be enough room to clear those alignment washers or they are going to get torn up.


Wally
 

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pdxtaco said:
Am I wrong here?

about it ending like that... if you look at budbuilts.. his ends the same way on the angled part.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/index.html

I think I will cut off the part of the skid that is in contact with those washers. This will expose the washers more.
Well I don't think Bud's is in contact w/ the washers so it's not the same way as his. I think his tends to level out more towards the bottom of the A arm but yeah. If you do cut it off I don't see it as a huge deal. I've been wheeling for about a year now with mine exposed and no major damage. Just don't hit stuff and you'll be fine. As for being 10 times better than stock. I dunno. Stock ones bang up pretty good. If you'd have left the cross out though, it'd be much more rigid in that area and that's where mine tends to get hit. Go wheeling and see what happens. If you tear something up, well that's what this board is for. We'll tell you how to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rebuilt98 said:
Well I don't think Bud's is in contact w/ the washers so it's not the same way as his. I think his tends to level out more towards the bottom of the A arm but yeah. If you do cut it off I don't see it as a huge deal. I've been wheeling for about a year now with mine exposed and no major damage. Just don't hit stuff and you'll be fine. As for being 10 times better than stock. I dunno. Stock ones bang up pretty good. If you'd have left the cross out though, it'd be much more rigid in that area and that's where mine tends to get hit. Go wheeling and see what happens. If you tear something up, well that's what this board is for. We'll tell you how to fix it.
I'm sure buds is not in contact with the washers, I was just saying about how that part of his plate ends at an angle like mine to where you could back up and catch it on a rock. Either way, I don't want to compare mine to buds because i know his is much better than mine. I got mine for 6 bucks though and i'd like to try and make it work. I'll talk to the local fab shop and see what they can do about lowering the front to clear the washers.

thanks for your input
 

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What if you just put a couple washers between the rear mounts and the plate to lower the back? Shouldn't cause too much of an angle on the front mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the back is already lowered a bit.. the front lowered by one washer... I havn't checked for sure, but I think the front needs to come down about 1/2". If I bring it down that much with washers, am i seriously reducing the integrity? If I am, the shop here will make me a spacer bar that I can throw in there at the front mounting location. This will keep me from having to cut the plate and expose the alignment washers.

so should I throw 4 washers in there or should I have them make me a spacer bar
 

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I can't see how you have the front mounted but If it's a flush plate to the crossmember between the rails up front just do what I did to mount mine and have them welde in a 1 inch piece of square stock. Much stronger than using washers. Id had to do it to keep mine off the radiator and I welded it all the way across on the outside and stitch welded the back side.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
awesome, thats what i'll do. I like that. Do you have it so your bolts mount at the bottom of the skid or so they mount inside of the tube... does that make sense?
 

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I assume you're talking about the front 1 inch tube and if so they mount below it. No reason to do anything else. Just means drilling a hole through two walls instead of one. If you're tightening it enough to crush 1 inch tube, it's tooooo tight. The others (the 3 legs that protrude) have the bolts up in them so I didn't have to try and use a 3 or 4 inch bolt and so I wouldn't shear the head off.

Pic of it mounted
 

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Rebuilt98's aligment washers are tucked high, well above the edge of the A-arm bracket, from the pictures pdxtaco's has given us, the alignment washers look like they hang below the A-arm bracket. Is this just camera angle or am I seeing this correctly?

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #15
that is correct.. the driver side one hanges down and the passenger side one is up like rebuilt98's. I recently had an alignment done and thats how it ended up.
 

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Is there anyway the person that built this for you would look at your pics and modify it to work right?

IMO having to refit something that doesn't work exactly has it was intended no matter how pretty it is, that stinks. :(

IMO an hours worth more of fabrication and it would work perfectly IMO. Might have to scrape a litte paint on the top side, put in a couple of brackets like rebuilt98s or Bud's, readjust the bends a little.

I built my own skid, but tackled it in a different manner. I too used the existing bracketry, including the two brackets on the lower portion where the OEM attached with 8x 1.25mm bolts.

Wally
 

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Here is how I approached making my own skidplate. It has served me well.





You could make brackets similar to the stock ones, Budbuilt ones, Rebuilt98s that would lower the skid enough to clearence the suspension washer.

Hope this is of some help.

Wally
 

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Discussion Starter #18
WallyP226 said:
Is there anyway the person that built this for you would look at your pics and modify it to work right?

IMO having to refit something that doesn't work exactly has it was intended no matter how pretty it is, that stinks. :(

IMO an hours worth more of fabrication and it would work perfectly IMO. Might have to scrape a litte paint on the top side, put in a couple of brackets like rebuilt98s or Bud's, readjust the bends a little.

I built my own skid, but tackled it in a different manner. I too used the existing bracketry, including the two brackets on the lower portion where the OEM attached with 8x 1.25mm bolts.

Wally
I appriciate your comments, however... I pulled the design off the web and modified it. It wasn't a 'work on the skid plate, check it with the truck, then work on the skid some more.' It was a design, then fab, then put on truck project. I didn't take the time to check all the measurments, only a few of them. My friend was going way out of his way to fab it up for me. I figured it would work and if it didnt' I could modify it to make it work. I think in the end its going to work great after I get that bar welded on.

Also, I plan on modifying the design drawings I used and adding it to the skid plate DIY thread on here so people in the future can see what I used and chose to use that instead.

Anyway... i'll let you all know how it turns out.
 

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i made an extra x member thet sits in between the oe mounting holes and the skid if that helps any. i still have to make a bracket to mount to the steering rack a la bud built and add reinforcement behind the front angled part and my x member. the reinf will follow the angle of the skid and be wlded to the x member, still have to figure out what to do for the top.





as a side note i put a 4x8 sheet of this stuff up against a concrete wall and ran into it w my toyota forklift forks at work at about a 45 deg angle at 1/2 speed. heres what happened (2 gouges in 1st pic). and theres that very same 4x8 sheet in my carport. lol






good shit comes in handy for cupholders and such haha.
 
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