Skid plates don't fit after diff drop

5774 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by seth_js, Dec 9, 2004

seth_js

Discussion Starter · Dec 8, 2004

My skid plates do not fit properly after installing the Total Chaos 1" front diff drop. It hits the front diff arms before sitting flush with the frame (about half inch to low). Total Chaos says the factory plates can be used with their diff drop. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what did you do to correct it? Buy longer bolts? Bend/tweak the plate?

Thanks in advance,

Seth

PS. I am new to Tacomas and just found this site yesterday. It rocks. Keep up the good work.

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

Matt

· #2 · Dec 8, 2004

seth_js said:
My skid plates do not fit properly after installing the Total Chaos 1" front diff drop. It hits the front diff arms before sitting flush with the frame (about half inch to low). Total Chaos says the factory plates can be used with their diff drop. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what did you do to correct it? Buy longer bolts? Bend/tweak the plate?

Thanks in advance,

Seth

PS. I am new to Tacomas and just found this site yesterday. It rocks. Keep up the good work.

First off did it make a noticeable difference? I ended up taking mine out.

To make it fit you usually have to extend the holes, grinder/file, on the rear bolts of the skid plate so it will line up with the bolt holes. The middle ones wont be able to sit flush up against the bolt holes so just tighten them until they're snug without bending the mounts on the skid plate. Or if you're so inclined you could stack a bunch of washers or make spacers to accomidate for the gap.

Save

03trdblack

· #3 · Dec 8, 2004

Yup, what he said....

Save

seth_js

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 8, 2004

I would just put the plates back on with the bolts not all the way tightened like you said, but I can't even get the first thread to catch. The gap is too big. Could I just go to my hardware store and get longer bolts?

I was just gonna take the diff drop out. I was thinking it probably didn't make that big of a difference and not worth this hassle. So, what I did, was I took the diff drop out, and had my buddy push up on the diff arms so I could see the difference with/without the drop in real time. I'm not sure what the actual angle decrease is, but it definitly was significant.

Save

Matt

· #5 · Dec 8, 2004

seth_js said:
I would just put the plates back on with the bolts not all the way tightened like you said, but I can't even get the first thread to catch. The gap is too big. Could I just go to my hardware store and get longer bolts?

I was just gonna take the diff drop out. I was thinking it probably didn't make that big of a difference and not worth this hassle. So, what I did, was I took the diff drop out, and had my buddy push up on the diff arms so I could see the difference with/without the drop in real time. I'm not sure what the actual angle decrease is, but it definitly was significant.

Longer bolts would do the trick.

With mine the same fins were touching, second and third in from the wheel and when I took out the diff drop spacers they were still touching so I left it out.

Save

EVOM1

· #6 · Dec 8, 2004

I took the old bolts to the local hardware store matched them up to longer ones and oveled out the rear holes. My CV angles are perfect I did the diff drop befor the coil overs :xbeer1:

Save

hytenor

· #7 · Dec 8, 2004

seth_js said:
I would just put the plates back on with the bolts not all the way tightened like you said, but I can't even get the first thread to catch. The gap is too big. Could I just go to my hardware store and get longer bolts?

I was just gonna take the diff drop out. I was thinking it probably didn't make that big of a difference and not worth this hassle. So, what I did, was I took the diff drop out, and had my buddy push up on the diff arms so I could see the difference with/without the drop in real time. I'm not sure what the actual angle decrease is, but it definitly was significant.

define 'significant'

when I experimented with lowering the front of the diff the only way ANY change was evident was to drop it as far as it would go, about 1.5". My boot fins were still stuck together even with that amount.
One member even measured the shift in axle angle...with a micrometer

this mod is more a mind game than a real-world solution and actually may do more harm then good.

in order to make the skids fit you must elongate the holes. there is a writeup on the New England site.

Save

crghou

· #8 · Dec 8, 2004

Yea my skid plate didn't fit eather. I used header bolts from my mustang to bolt in the holes that were about 1/2 in off and just grinded the rear hole a little to match up.

Save

Nanotruck

· #9 · Dec 9, 2004

seth_js said:
PS. I am new to Tacomas and just found this site yesterday. It rocks. Keep up the good work.

Found us at the right time. This board is young. Stick around and help us build some character into it.

Save

seth_js

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 9, 2004

So hytenor, would you just take the diff drop out? Does anyone without an auto-locking 4WD with a diff drop ever have problems engaging 4WD? That seemed to be Fabtech's main concern when I called them.

Save

hytenor

· #11 · Dec 9, 2004

seth_js said:
So hytenor, would you just take the diff drop out? Does anyone without an auto-locking 4WD with a diff drop ever have problems engaging 4WD? That seemed to be Fabtech's main concern when I called them.

I would take it out but that's me.

as for what fabtec told you...huh??? the guy must have smoked too much crack that day. the dd has no effect on engaging 4wd

the ONLY reason for doing the dd is to releave some of the stress that is placed on the CVs when the lift is installed. And, more specifically on the boots themselves. the joints, both inner and outer on the CV axle assembly handle the 2-3" of lift just fine but the inner boots will wear out if the boot fins are pressed together. (which is what happens with a simple suspension lift) Standard OE boots are not designed to be in a constant flex like what is produced with a suspension lift; they like to be straight (check out a stock truck). On the inner boots the first (inner most) fin will be worn through by the fin next to it. newer, hi-angle boots are designed to handle the constant flex and not wear themselves out. The boots on my CV Unlimited axles are touching but there is no pressure of one fin edge gouging into the neighboring fin.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/misc/CV angles/photos/photo_4.html
this is with about 2.5" of lift cranked into the SAWs.

With ADD as in all Tacos after '00 the CVs (and the front diff) are constantly in motion whether you are in 2 or 4wd. The older manual hub rigs (like my '00) don't have this problem so the boots last much longer...nothing turns but the wheels in 2wd.

See less See more

Save

seth_js

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 9, 2004

Cool. Thanks for all the help/info hytenor. Much appreciated.

-Seth

Save

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month