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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have knowledge or suggestion for skid plates? I know of BudBuilt and have heard of Skid Row both are 3/16's material. Can anyone provide me with Pro's or Con's for either or have another company to recommend? This will be going on my 98 T4R.
 

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"Terry Tate"
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I don't have experience with Skid Row but with Budbuilt you get a great product with great customer service.
 

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ive got a custom skid that's all 3/16s, reinforced with 1"x1/4" strap ribs. if you have any fab equipment, the skid is a great place to learn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have access to a welder and grinder, that is about it. In fact leaving work now and driving 50 miles to my buddies house to finish my swing away. Fabbed the back bumper and now tire carrier. Just have to put the finishing touches and bolt the two together. It has only taken 6 months since the start because our schedules never line up. total of 2 weekends and 3 week nights.

**side note** the Ivan Stewart rims neck down and don't fit on the hoist under the my 98 Runner so have to finish or carry my spare inside for another trip.
 

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i have a skidplate for sale, 100 bucks. Just sanded it down and repainted it so it looks new. If your interested throw me a PM
 

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I like my skidrow front and transfer case skid
There's pics in my garage in my sig line..

EDIT: Guess I should elaborate:

How would you like to lift a heavy ass skid plate up and down EVERY TIME you want to change your Oil..? If you want to, Go BB.
IF you would like to have a proper size oil drain hole, Skid row.

I think the Skid row has better mounting spots then the BB, Plus the skid row doesnt mount to the steering rack like the BB

PLUS : SFK (Skid row) wont forget about you ;)
 

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How would you like to lift a heavy ass skid plate up and down EVERY TIME you want to change your Oil..? If you want to, Go BB.
IF you would like to have a proper size oil drain hole, Skid row.
They're not that heavy if you're an average sized adult male. :rolleyes: I've had mine on and off by myself plenty of times. With a 13 and a 14mm boxed end wratcheting wrench, its a pretty simple thing to remove the skid plate. If you have a piece of cereal box cardboard to roll up into a cone shape and slip into the hole in the skid, it's easy enough to drain the oil right through the hole in the BB skid without it pooling up on the top of the skid. With a drill or a cutting torch, one could always enlarge the drain hole in their BB skid if it bothers them. I certainly wouldn't get rid of a set of skids because of a drain hole I considered to be too small. Modifying it to suit your tastes is pretty straightforward. Also, with 15,000 mile oil filters and synthetic oil, the frequency of oil and filter changes is not what it used to be. The more area you protect, the more you're going to block access to. BB skids provide a lot of coverage and hence, protected area underneath the truck. The trade-off is limited access to those protected components.

To the O.P., what did you end up getting for skids on your '98? If it's 3/16ths thick or better, I would be happy with it. Brand is not at important as material, protection, and fit. If you didn't buy yet, just get whatever you can find a deal on, that's 3/16ths or thicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looking at getting the Skid Row simply because they are already powder coated, available through 4Wheel Parts. I dont have to pay shipping if I pick it up at the store. Also I get a 10% military discount so price is even that much better. Another deciding factor is I can get the transmission one for now and still use factory front skid until I can afford the front. BB you have to run front then get middle since they lock together.
 

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Looking at getting the Skid Row simply because they are already powder coated, available through 4Wheel Parts. I dont have to pay shipping if I pick it up at the store. Also I get a 10% military discount so price is even that much better. Another deciding factor is I can get the transmission one for now and still use factory front skid until I can afford the front. BB you have to run front then get middle since they lock together.
Just because the budbuilt front IFS and belly plate skids can bolt to eachother, that does not mean you have to have both to use either. I have run just the IFS skid, and had to remove the IFS skid and then just ran the belly plate skid by itself for a while on my '03.

Also, a discount and no shipping is a good deal, but aside from that, I wouldn't waste money powdercoating a skid plate, sliders, bumpers, or anything that is going to get rockrash. The rocks just grind the powdercoat off anyway, and then it looks worse than if it were painted. Stick with bare metal and rattlecan it. Then touch up as needed to keep the rust off the rockrash areas. :2cents:
 

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Meh, still wouldn't want to pull it every time I had to do an oil change, that's just extra steps and time I may not have. I just did my oil for time since I got my skids and it all went out right through the hole..
Except when it was done draining and just drippin, so a bit got ontop of the skid but no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Stealth- I do agree about Rattlecan on sliders and other protection. I have eggshell satin black on my AP sliders and DIY rear bumper, makes it nice to touch up and hides the dents better then gloss.
I had been told by someone else that the BB middle could not be used with factory front. I know both are good products with solid reputations, that is why I was struggling with decission.
Lately I just keep having other things happen that are taking my money otherwise I would have had these a couple weeks ago when I first posted. Also why I am looking at doing one at a time now.
 

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2013 Tacoma Underbody Protection

Anyway we could get this discussion going again?

I've had some good email exchanges with Bud, he's also an engineer! I'm gravitating towards doing business with him. What do you all think?

My main areas for concern are:
- exhaust cross over (why did they make it hang so low?!)
- transfer case
- fuel tank (plastic skid Toyota?)

Not as concerned but want to protect:
- Rear Differential
- Engine (already somewhat protected)
- Side Sliders
- Rear E-Locker

Anything I've missed?

Is there a "one stop" solution (a large skid) that would protect most/all of these areas without making maintenance impossible/difficult?

Thanks.

JG
 

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Rear skid-


Front skid-


The skids are 3/16 steel, but with 2ft between the cross members on the rear skid, they easily bend. I used 1/8" square tube to add support since I had the material already, but the cheaper and lighter method is to use angle iron and weld it with the "V" upside down.
 

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Bud is aware that many people add similar bracing to his skids. He really can't do the same thing and make a profit since labor would shoot the price up and the demand for a customized skid like this is pretty low.

I probably added about 50lbs to the total weight of the skids. They still bend though.
 

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All Pro has a transfer case skid that protects the exaust cross over. One fun way to remidy that problem is to get the competition Y pipe from URD. It cuts up and infront of the frame support and eliminates two of the CATs.
 
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