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Discussion Starter #1
anyone out there running the flat pitman arm from sky? i run it and i max the box out way way before i hit get near the steering stops, my turning radius is horible, i run the drag link from the pitman arm to the steering arm (i wont run the drag link to the tie rod, it will bind like hell). do you think a pitman arm that is say 1-1.5" longer will be enough? i have access to a cnc milling machine and can make my own but just want others opinions before i start drawing it out.
the axle is a ford f250 full width hp d44 if that helps
thanks
 

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zszac111 said:
anyone out there running the flat pitman arm from sky? i run it and i max the box out way way before i hit get near the steering stops, my turning radius is horible, i run the drag link from the pitman arm to the steering arm (i wont run the drag link to the tie rod, it will bind like hell). do you think a pitman arm that is say 1-1.5" longer will be enough? i have access to a cnc milling machine and can make my own but just want others opinions before i start drawing it out.
the axle is a ford f250 full width hp d44 if that helps
thanks
I run Skys 3/4 pitman arm, flat one would have hit the frame. My steering issue is mostly/totally from the axle moving laterally while turning. the tracbar/panhard will atke care of some. mine can move that way from the orbit eyes up front, which I knew might cause this.
might take to alignment shop and tell them whatthe issue is and see what they say. thats how I confured it was axle moving.
hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
grumpy said:
I run Skys 3/4 pitman arm, flat one would have hit the frame. My steering issue is mostly/totally from the axle moving laterally while turning. the tracbar/panhard will atke care of some. mine can move that way from the orbit eyes up front, which I knew might cause this.
might take to alignment shop and tell them whatthe issue is and see what they say. thats how I confured it was axle moving.
hope this helps

the axle isnt moving laterally, my turning radius just sucks, just wondering if and extra inch or so on the pitman arm would be sufficient to allow me to atleast get somewhat close to the steering stops :D
 

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zszac111 said:
the axle isnt moving laterally, my turning radius just sucks, just wondering if and extra inch or so on the pitman arm would be sufficient to allow me to atleast get somewhat close to the steering stops :D
the Sky arm is ~3/4" shorter then the stock arm. I didn't notice that big of a difference in turning radius by losing that 3/4". doubling it will improve the turnig radius, not sure how much.
 

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zszac111 said:
anyone out there running the flat pitman arm from sky? i run it and i max the box out way way before i hit get near the steering stops, my turning radius is horible, i run the drag link from the pitman arm to the steering arm (i wont run the drag link to the tie rod, it will bind like hell). do you think a pitman arm that is say 1-1.5" longer will be enough? i have access to a cnc milling machine and can make my own but just want others opinions before i start drawing it out.
the axle is a ford f250 full width hp d44 if that helps
thanks
I believe you need at least the 3/4" "drop" in the pitman arm to clear the frame.

You can go to Napa and order a stock pitman arm from any pre taco truck and achieve that amount of drop.

That's what I did, but I also had other troubles with the first steering box I bought, so I bought a second box. On the second box I made sure to rob everything from the donor steering, including the pitman. So now I have three pitman arms! two from the boxes and the one I bought to replace the first one. Ended up sending my second box to RockLogic to rebuild it. While they had it they "modified the pitman arm on the box with the most beautiful tig weld I have ever seen. It would be a shame not to use it. So I have a brand new pitman sitting in a box with no need for it. I could let you have it very cheap if you are interested.

I know you said you could make one yourself, but this would save you the hassle and time. Let me know if you are interested
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bear said:
I believe you need at least the 3/4" "drop" in the pitman arm to clear the frame.

You can go to Napa and order a stock pitman arm from any pre taco truck and achieve that amount of drop.

I have the flat one on there, I did my steering a little different than everyone else, i notched the top and bottom of the frame for the top and bottom bolts, sleved it with DOM for all the holes, and plated the frame all the way around. my steering box is also pretty level, rather than having a tilt to it. I have the stock arm but i use 3/4 hiems on all my steering links so its not really an option. I guess ill just make one of them and see how it works.
 

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Their "plastic surgery" made me tight again

BK005 said:
What did they weld on your pitman arm?

You know how a lot of people use the Sky's pitman arm insert to fit the drag link up to the Toyota IFS box?

Well instead of having an insert, RockLogic tig welded the inside diameter of the pitman arm "hole" so I do not need an insert.

Since I got the tie rod ends from them as well, everything matches up perfectly. It looks really nice. If I remember right, they even tapered the hole as they TIG'ed it.

I can't get over how pretty the tig weld is. I am used to seeing MIG welds and this damn TIG weld looks absolutely like a perfect weld in comparison to a MIG. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BK005 said:
What did they weld on your pitman arm?
dont know if thats for me or not, i havent welded anything to the arm, i just have the ability to make a whole complete new one that is a little longer.
 
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