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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put the finishing touches on a set of sliders today. First time welding around tube is tough but I was able to get all the way around in 3 runs. All done I think they came out well. :)
Specs:
2"x2" .120 wall square
1.75" .120 wall round
3/16" brackets / backing plates bolt to sides and bottom of frame

Off to powder coat...






 

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Would you mind showing some pics where you mounted the leg in the boxed section? I'm in the planning stages and I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to get mine mounted in the boxed section of the front part of the frame. Where I've planned to mount mine I have about 12" of boxed frame I will have to get my hand into and still navigate threading the nuts.. That's gonna be tough!

Also, my plates go up pretty high ( I think 6" ) so the pinch weld is in the way of a straight shot for my regular drill. I may need to buy a 90 degree drill so I can get up between the pinch weld and the frame.

Thanks!
AC
 

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Put the finishing touches on a set of sliders today. First time welding around tube is tough but I was able to get all the way around in 3 runs. All done I think they came out well. :)
Specs:
2"x2" .120 wall square
1.75" .120 wall round
3/16" brackets / backing plates bolt to sides and bottom of frame

Off to powder coat...
looks pretty good but a couple suggestions..


add two more spacers to the two that you have now....trust me on this ;)

you'll also need to lengthen those 'L' brackets to reach the top of frame and add some gussets...a simple triangle of 1/4" or 3/16" plate will do fine.
 

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Anthony, you can borrow my 90 degree drill when you are ready to do the job. You have my number. Good seeing you today. If you need help with the sliders, let me know.
 

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really nice. I like the square stock and that they stick out far enough to double as a step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Those look stout. What's up with the leg that's at an angle? Wouldn't it be better to put 4 legs on?
Thanks. I wanted the rear leg as far back as possible but the spring is in the way so I had to put it at a 45. Once its gusseted I think 3 legs will do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Would you mind showing some pics where you mounted the leg in the boxed section?
I welded the nuts to the backing plates. For the boxed in backing plate I tacked some 1" flat to the side and used it to fish it into place. Once bolted up I wiggled the tack welds loose and broke it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
looks pretty good but a couple suggestions..


add two more spacers to the two that you have now....trust me on this ;)

you'll also need to lengthen those 'L' brackets to reach the top of frame and add some gussets...a simple triangle of 1/4" or 3/16" plate will do fine.
Gussets...I was thinking the exact same thing last night.
Running the brackets to the top of the frame, is that really needed after gusseting?
 

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Yeah, I've thought about going that route. The handle idea seems like the ticket. Thanks!


I welded the nuts to the backing plates. For the boxed in backing plate I tacked some 1" flat to the side and used it to fish it into place. Once bolted up I wiggled the tack welds loose and broke it off.
 

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Gussets...I was thinking the exact same thing last night.
Running the brackets to the top of the frame, is that really needed after gusseting?
in order to utilize tall enough gussets, yes, IMO, and to get as much of the stress transfered to the strongest portion of the frame...and that ain't the center of it. If your 'L' bracket only goes about half way up on the frame rail it will push the frame in at the weld point under heavy stress. This is even more critical with a 3-leg design. With 4 legs the stress gets spread out that much more and the frame folding problem isn't nearly as bad. The center portion of our frames is the weakest point.

To see just how weak take a couple squares of plate, say, 2x2 and drill a
1/2" hole through the middle of them. Then sandwich a spot on the frame through one of the existing hole pairs with the two plates and a 1/2" bolt/nut. Start cranking on the bolt and watch that sucker cave in ;)

I use 5.5" tall brackets made of 1/4" plate with center holes and can still crush the frame with little torque applied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
in order to utilize tall enough gussets, yes, IMO, and to get as much of the stress transfered to the strongest portion of the frame...and that ain't the center of it. If your 'L' bracket only goes about half way up on the frame rail it will push the frame in at the weld point under heavy stress. This is even more critical with a 3-leg design. With 4 legs the stress gets spread out that much more and the frame folding problem isn't nearly as bad. The center portion of our frames is the weakest point.

To see just how weak take a couple squares of plate, say, 2x2 and drill a
1/2" hole through the middle of them. Then sandwich a spot on the frame through one of the existing hole pairs with the two plates and a 1/2" bolt/nut. Start cranking on the bolt and watch that sucker cave in ;)

I use 5.5" tall brackets made of 1/4" plate with center holes and can still crush the frame with little torque applied.

I see...thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll be extending the plates over the top now. :welder:
 
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