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Discussion Starter #1
Just a little update for ya.

I took Snoop to the TTORA Takeover and had a blast. I now have a couple problems...

Snoop has a nice n' nasty gangster lean to the passenger side. I think I bent a spring on my last trip. I had to throttle on one spot too much and think that might be the cause.

So now I'd like to do some rebuilding. Here's what I'm thinking:



Body / Armor


- Bob ~ 12" off the back and put on a pickup tailgate and end. I don't use the window anyways, and I'd like to trim the bottom up.

- Rock rails / sliders - 2"x6" square tube to replace rocker panels. I might take them up further, but I'm not sure the extra work is worth the couple extra inches clearance. People run sliders with great results. I would like to put a small "boatside" effect to it. The 2x6 will give me a good platform to mount and exo when the time comes... and it needs to come soon :smack:

- Tranny tunnel - If I do the rock rails, I could make a sub-frame to mount my seats and free up some more space for a tranny tunnel. I really need to put sheetmetal over that stuff, as it gets really hot over time. So hot I can just about not take it.

- Full belly skid - need to protect my cases now :smack: I have the metal, just need to do it. Should I run UHMW and a lighter backing plate??? I hear that stuff is the shiznit!




Suspension



- Front - springs need to be pulled and examined. New bushings, probably. Take out anti-wrap spring and put in one with less arch.

- Rear - pull these springs apart as well. new bushings probably needed. Will run Toyota bushings, as they seem to be a straight swap with F150s. Would like to do a pivot-block on the perch. French in front spring hangers, and sink rear spring hangers into frame or put on top of rail. ANTI-WRAP BAR is much needed. Will figure that out after I redo the springs.




Gas tank


- F150 gas tank might have to go. It's too big for a trail-only vehicle. I think I only use about 5 gallons a day wheeling, so this baby is just too much for me. Might build a cell like Mossyrocks did, or I might buy a small 10 gallon cell and put it where the current tank is. Just too much...



Winch

- have had some trouble with my synthetic. Not sure if I'm going to pull it off and run cable (got brand new steel cable for free...) or take off SKY's UHMW hawse fairlead (it's crap...) and replace with aluminum. Just don't know...




Post up your thoughts!
 

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Is there an expected time of completion? Im just ondering when I can start calling ya a web wheeler, slacker again. I think you should move the exo further up on your list.
 

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Got much time off in your near future? That's a long list of to-do's little buddy. Gonna try to chop that into smaller pcs so you can still wheel that thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there an expected time of completion? Im just ondering when I can start calling ya a web wheeler, slacker again. I think you should move the exo further up on your list.
I hope to be done by winter break.

I'm trying to get a lot of stuff done right now. School, thesis wrap-up, working on getting an internship, looking for a study abroad program, getting things settled (still) at this house, a girlfriend, and Snoop all competing for my time. Obviously, Snoop is at the bottom of those in priority. Gotta get 'dat education!

Start calling me a web-wheeler again once it's on jackstands and I post pics of that :D

Got much time off in your near future? That's a long list of to-do's little buddy. Gonna try to chop that into smaller pcs so you can still wheel that thing?
I'm kinda burnt on wheeling right now. I'd rather work on my junk for a little while. I've been playing Russian roulette with this rig not having a skid plate - almost fubar'd my trans and cases at TO this year with a giant rock :rolleyes:

It may look like a long list, but I think it'll be doable once I get it on jackstands. Then the springs will come off quick, followed by rear axle shave, diff protection front and rear. I'm pretty optimistic, but I think I can get quite a chunk of that done if I just apply myself. I'm known to web-wheel instead of work :rolleyes:
 

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Here's my thoughts...

Bob -> sure. Sliders -> yes. Tranny tunnel -> YES, please. Skid plate -> you need to drive better, or get a better spotter. :D

Springs -> Do what ever you think works. New bushings are always good, providing you didn't put new ones in there when you first build the rig. Trac bar -> yes.

Gas tank -> you don't have to fill it up to the top everytime it's empty, ya know. :D I think that's one of the better mods. You might appreciate it if you ever decide to take it to Moab, or on an extended weekend somewhere.

Winch -> sorry I pointed you at that fairlead. :eek: Glad you tried it before I bought one. If you run steel line, keep the syn line, and make extension lines out of it.

Dibs on tire/wheel rental for a few years while it sits. :neener:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's my thoughts...

Bob -> sure. Sliders -> yes. Tranny tunnel -> YES, please. Skid plate -> you need to drive better, or get a better spotter. :D
If I patch the tranny tunnel, then I for sure need that belly plate. That open tunnel has saved me many times from drag the rear over Mt. Everest :rolleyes: I've only almost turtled only once. That would've sucked...

Plus, I plan to lower Snoop a couple inches. The belly will be nice.


Springs -> Do what ever you think works. New bushings are always good, providing you didn't put new ones in there when you first build the rig. Trac bar -> yes.
Nope, used the same Ford bushings and Toyota stuff as well.

Track bar is a must, I think. Gonna do a slip and twist with shackle on one end, I think

Gas tank -> you don't have to fill it up to the top everytime it's empty, ya know. :D I think that's one of the better mods. You might appreciate it if you ever decide to take it to Moab, or on an extended weekend somewhere.
I need that space more than I need gas. Once I bob, it's not going to fit very well. Plus, it would allow me to make room for possible future mods. I just don't need it nor do I want it anymore. I can't do Moab, cuz Snoop doesn't street AT ALL :(


Winch -> sorry I pointed you at that fairlead. :eek: Glad you tried it before I bought one. If you run steel line, keep the syn line, and make extension lines out of it.
Yea, it's okay. Just turned out it was crap. Aluminum is the way to go.

Not gonna cut up perfectly good synthetic. Still have about 100', so I'm good to go. Gonna try to make synthetic work first before I backpedal to steel cable.

Dibs on tire/wheel rental for a few years while it sits. :neener:
Doubt it'll take that long. Priority is springs, bob, fender trim in rear, rocker panel. After that, I can wheel and mod at the same time. No biggie.

Plus now I have a plasma so I'll be even faster :cool:

That was a badass deal, BTW. I'm uber-pumped!
 

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Plus now I have a plasma so I'll be even faster :cool:

That was a badass deal, BTW. I'm uber-pumped!
Yes, yes it was. I wish I had the cash for that, but oh well. Then I'd need 220 outlet, and good, clean air to run it. Extra $$$ written all over that.

You should hook a fellow member here up with your second one. I know what you paid for it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes, yes it was. I wish I had the cash for that, but oh well. Then I'd need 220 outlet, and good, clean air to run it. Extra $$$ written all over that.

You should hook a fellow member here up with your second one. I know what you paid for it!!
220 is so darn easy to wire it's ridiculous. I wired up 220 in my garage last night in five minutes. Need a new breaker and that's pretty much it. I ran the 220 wire out the bottom of the front of the box. Ghetto, but she works :D And, yea, now I need that $$$ to get a compressor and good clean air... Dang't....
 

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Your either gonna want the slip/twist, or the shackle not both. but definately do the track bar with them springs backwards like that. Why is the ford tank not gonna fit after the bob? Does it stick past the frame rails now? If you bob past the frame your trying to hard. Youll never rub anything as short as the factory frame length anyhow. I want in line for the tire rental as well, you aint gonna need them till takover 2012 anyhow. :D

Nice score on the plasma! Now you can cut it apart easier. :welder: :saw:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your either gonna want the slip/twist, or the shackle not both. but definately do the track bar with them springs backwards like that. Why is the ford tank not gonna fit after the bob? Does it stick past the frame rails now? If you bob past the frame your trying to hard. Youll never rub anything as short as the factory frame length anyhow. I want in line for the tire rental as well, you aint gonna need them till takover 2012 anyhow. :D

Nice score on the plasma! Now you can cut it apart easier. :welder: :saw:
I haven't done my research on track bars yet :eek: I'll holler and pick your brain when it comes time.

I like the look of it bobbed real nasty to the end. I have a tendency to back into / sandwich myself. If I'm gonna do it, I'm just gonna do it to the max. I tend to overdo things if you haven't noticed. Turbo tranny...23 spline... 4.7s... selectable lockers... All those things have been a little overkill. Even the flat belly is a little over the top for me. BUT I'm learning, and that's what my first ride is all about. I have to learn for myself. I'm just stubborn like that. :rolleyes:

Everybody likes to make jokes about my slow pace, but now Snoop is all of 5 seconds from my bed, as opposed to 3.5 hours from my driveway ONE WAY :mad:

Bear with me, fellas. I hope to learn and teach. As always, I appreciate the comments, criticism, encouragement, and general harassment :D

Here's a couple pics of some bobs I really dig


 

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BUT I'm learning, and that's what my first ride is all about. I have to learn for myself. I'm just stubborn like that. :rolleyes:
I am the same way!

Both those bobs look great!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope mine comes out half as clean as those. My sheetmetal is already boogered where it needs to come back together :rolleyes: Dang't...
 

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A flat belly skid is a good thing be sure and brace it well as a simple sheet of 1/4 between the frame rails isnt enough strength to support the vehicle. But a good full width skid lets ya slide over things without edges hanging on rocks.. ..I would forget the UHMW its slick but also probably doesnt provide that big of a diffrence plus a good shot or two it may be coming off...plus it has no strength its just to provide a slick skid plate.. for sure do a tunnel cover, you dont need to watch under ya,just know the trail and whats under ya.. if you do need to watch it mount ya a camera like used for backing up in a RV.. 2x6 sliders are good idea, but angle them down (hard to describe) kinda like mine, give good clearence plus if ya do exo a good foundation for that. what springs in the rear? why do you need a anti wrap bar so bad? is it a spring issue? thought about RUF on front springs? remember stability is a good thing, probably more so than monster flex.. so a stiffer spring may be in order and would help with your wrap issue.. heck stay with the syn. rope, just get a good fairlead and mount it where rocks cant get to it... other wise go cable and a roller. if your tank works, why change it? just dont put as much fuel in it. it looked pretty up and out of the way last I saw it...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A flat belly skid is a good thing be sure and brace it well as a simple sheet of 1/4 between the frame rails isnt enough strength to support the vehicle. But a good full width skid lets ya slide over things without edges hanging on rocks.. ..I would forget the UHMW its slick but also probably doesnt provide that big of a diffrence plus a good shot or two it may be coming off...plus it has no strength its just to provide a slick skid plate.. for sure do a tunnel cover, you dont need to watch under ya,just know the trail and whats under ya.. if you do need to watch it mount ya a camera like used for backing up in a RV.. 2x6 sliders are good idea, but angle them down (hard to describe) kinda like mine, give good clearence plus if ya do exo a good foundation for that. what springs in the rear? why do you need a anti wrap bar so bad? is it a spring issue? thought about RUF on front springs? remember stability is a good thing, probably more so than monster flex.. so a stiffer spring may be in order and would help with your wrap issue.. heck stay with the syn. rope, just get a good fairlead and mount it where rocks cant get to it... other wise go cable and a roller. if your tank works, why change it? just dont put as much fuel in it. it looked pretty up and out of the way last I saw it...
You're right about the UHMW. It's not very structurally sound, and it's quite expensive. I would use an 1/8" backing plate or something a little thicker to give it some strength. I think I'll just use steel plate.

I know what you mean about angling the square tube for sliders. I saw how well yours worked, and it gave you a good spot for exo.

My springs aren't terribly soft, but they're especially prone to wrap due to them being mounted backwards. I'd like to continue to use them, but I want to have a little more control over their wrapping function. I'm excited to see how the rear suspension ends up.

I have an aluminum fairlead now, so I think I'll run synthetic and just be more careful :(

My tank is nice in that it tucks way up in the rear, but size wise it is a little big (wide and length) for the bob and my wheeling. If it were a matter of not filling it up so much, that'd be one thing, but that won't shrink the tank physically. I'm thinking about a 2wd truck tank mounted sideways in the rear. I'm told it's smaller than a 4wd truck, and much smaller than the saddlebag 4Runner tank I replaced. Dunno... That one's still up in the air.

If I can make the F150 tank work, I might just do that and worry about it later.

Thanks for the post, Dave!
 

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if your doing all the spring mods ie: frenching them and such, why have them backwards? if its the wheelbase thing, relocate them to where you want your wheelbase and have them as the factory intended.. dunno, maybe something way over my head..but just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I reversed them for the departure angle increase. They are 32" to the eye one way and 25" to the eye the other way. If I keep them reversed and french into the frame, I think I can use that point for links later down the road if I do that. it would be parallel links to the frame for the lowers and triangulated uppers. That's down the road, so who knows :rolleyes:
 

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I reversed them for the departure angle increase. They are 32" to the eye one way and 25" to the eye the other way. If I keep them reversed and french into the frame, I think I can use that point for links later down the road if I do that. it would be parallel links to the frame for the lowers and triangulated uppers. That's down the road, so who knows :rolleyes:
Don't give the links a thought if your not ready for them yet. When time comes to do the links your gonna want more of a fresh start anyhow.

Have you hung on your spring mounts, or is that a way to loose some of the lift youll gain by adding the swivel blocks under the springs?
 
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