run a wire to the fuel pump from a fused key on power source with a toggle on the dash you can turn off.
Also, failed to mention that it still wouldn't start and run with that method (extra battery with Daniel running pump). Dunno if it was flooded or what, but we did try that.run a wire to the fuel pump from a fused key on power source with a toggle on the dash you can turn off.
As for progress, I did make some...
My advice is to tighten your knuckle studs before and after every run. I have a feeling mine loosened up a little and then allowed it to walk.
See ya'll at the Ramble
Yep, I agree. Spotted a 40 with a sheared stud on Four Fingers. Pretty common problem. Just thought I was safer since I had ARP. I guess it really doesn't matter.i bet if 10 folks that wheel thier rigs check thier knucklestuds over 1/2 of em would have loose studs ... i have seen a bunch busted and almost always the other side was loose as well....
As a caveat, priorities have changed. Snoop may have helped me realize this frustration and 3.5 hour separation just are more than is worth it. He will likely become a back-burner thing for a while. Not getting sold or parted out (yet) - just getting burned out on always fixing my junk.
Well just rember it can sit, its not burning anything, just sitting there. If you get to feeling like its more work than fun, just take a break, itl be there when the time is right for you to get back into it.[/QUOTE]Yep. And that's okay. I'm growing up and realizing things that Younger Jordan never could appreciate. The seasons are changing a little, but it won't stop me from getting my fix somehow
Well, I'm not growing up...and you can't make me![/QUOTE]Well just rember it can sit, its not burning anything, just sitting there. If you get to feeling like its more work than fun, just take a break, itl be there when the time is right for you to get back into it.
I think what you need to do is visit the truck in person, invite some of us over with our tools, and get this issue taken care of. It ran before, it will run again.
I would love to if ya'll are willing to come help! We should have room, so you can stay the night in A/C if you'd like.Fo' real, I'll even bring some beer
I'm absolutely stumped.
Here's what I know:
The week before the wedding, Daniel and I did some work on Snoop. Thanks for the help, Daniel!
The CEL was throwing a TPS code, so I went to my Toyota parts source and got a different one. The code went away but still wouldn't start. Eventually, I couldn't get the CEL to come on at all. Not when you first turn the key, nor when you jump the diagnosis port. Nothing...
I have checked:
- Main relay
- several fuses
- fuel pump relay
- thermo sensors - the sensor below the throttle body and closest to the block didn't pass, but no code was being thrown
Here's where it's interesting. Daniel and I suspected a fuel issue. I cracked the cold start injector and the fuel rail, and it didn't seem like it was getting enough fuel. We thought maybe clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. We found a spare battery and jumped the Ford fuel pump. Pumped fuel at a great volume and speed, so I think it's good. However, when I just turned the key - and even briefly started - the pump wouldn't pump.
So what gives? Snoop is dead in the shed until this is resolved.
Hmmm... I appreciate the insight. Be awesome if it was just a groundThe truck runs the fuel pump on open/closed loop I cant rember which, but one or the other. After the initial fire it changes to closed/open loop(can't rember which) it seems as though your getting the initial fuel for cranking the motor over, but loose fuel pressure. there is a group of grounds just below the drivers headlights, be shure they are grounded well. If I'm way off, no need telling me where to go...I already know.
Other possibilitys are the maf sensor, wires, or connections, but as I have preached before, those toyota ground wires are a PITA espically on rigs that crawl. The constant josteling and banging around can cause the grounds to loose. After finding weak, or bad grounds I like to run a wire brush on an air grinder on the area with the captured nut, and on the bolt then let it rust after tighting, rusted connections tend to come loose less likely. I don't like locktighting these connections.
Run a test light on the fuel pump wires as the motor is cranked and ran with a bit of fuel squirted through the intake vaccume hose, holes. Note when and if , which wires to the fuel pump are powered.
Ahhhh... I shall try that. I brought the 2wd pump assembly back to MiniAfrica. Think I'll blast it and maybe sneak it on to the electroplater. We'll see if that happens.You might try soaking one of your other pumps in gas for a while to see if the motor might free up. Gently tapping it after the soak might help too. That one you pulled from the parts truck looked pretty gummed up.