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Discussion Starter #1
So right now I have a stock 98 4 cylinder extended cab. I want to lift both the front and the back 3". I am a complete newb when it comes to cars as I just started driving. Since I do go wheeling a couple of times a week I wanted a lift that will give me a performance upgrade, not just spacers. But I am on a low budget and from what I have read, a 3" OME lift seems like it would be my best option. What are your thought on this? I looked on wheelersoffroad.com and I was thinking about the 98-04 complete suspension system. Do you guys think this is what I should do? Any help is appreciated.
 

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renorider40 said:
I am on a low budget...and I was thinking about the 98-04 complete suspension system. Do you guys think this is what I should do? Any help is appreciated.
well, you said you are on a low budget. However, getting the full OME system is a little over a $1.000 dollars. Is that right? (I could be wrong, not sure.)

Anyways, If I had that money available for a suspension upgrade I would probably get the SAW's Coilovers for the front, add-a-leaf's for the back, Bilstein shocks for the back as well.

IMO, and for what I've ready in tons of posts in this forum, that's probably a better set up for about the same price of a full OME system. You can get that as well from Wheelers Offroad.
 

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well, you said you are on a low budget. However, getting the full OME system is a little over a $1.000 dollars.
Ya sorry I didn't clarify. I have a budget of around 1000 dollars. Even though that is a lot of money for me the reason I said low was because I know you can spend way more money upgrading your suspension.
 

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renorider40 said:
Ya sorry I didn't clarify. I have a budget of around 1000 dollars. Even though that is a lot of money for me the reason I said low was because I know you can spend way more money upgrading your suspension.
Although I have a crappy lift myself, I believe some people in this forum might suggest that if you already have a $1.000 to spend, then why not upgrade to a SAW or Camburg system which can find around a $1.000 as well?

Is that right?

Anybody?
 

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you could also just get a spacer/AAL combo. that will allow u to have enough money left over to get tires. just make sure you get a good shock(bilstein) for the rear, it helps alot. It is a good starting point to go from without breaking the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
that will allow u to have enough money left over to get tires.
I just put new tires on about two months ago, so I don't need to save any extra for tires. It can all go into suspension.
 

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For the rear, you could try the Donahoe 1.5" three-leaf "AAL" and a 1.5" shackle for a total of 3". Don't forget to raise the brake load sensing proportioning valve and longer rear brake lines, or at least bend the bracket down that holds the brake line for some added slack - although I'd go with longer lines if you're going to go with 3" in the rear. As for shocks, I'd go with Bilsteins.

The front is trickier. If you have manual hubs, I'd say 3" is the absolute maximum you should go before you start busting upper ball joints. I'd ditch the idea of wanting 3" up front and just go with 2.5" max with manual hubs, but there are quite a few folks on here who'll tell you they're happy with 3" up front. If you have ADD, I would go only as high as 2" up front. With that said, I'd go with the Sway A Away (SAW) adjustable coilovers up front. Just bear in mind that if you crank the SAWs to 3", the preload on the coils may make it ride much stiffer than if you just crank them to 2".

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
also another question. I remember seeing a chart that said you could only fit 32 inch tires on with a 3" lift. Is that true? I have 31's on right now so how would I only be able to fit a tire that is one inch bigger with a 3" lift.
 

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to fit more than 32's, you would need to trim the pinchweld area a lot, or smash it with a big f'ing hammer. I would suggest for you to get your hands on a set of used saws or downey coil overs for the front, and new bilstiens or ome shocks. for the rear get the ome shocks and a shackle, longer break lines and BPV extension. then get yourself a 4crawler 1 or 2" body lift, not a 3" and deffinatly not a performance accessories.
that is the set up I have on my taco and I fit 33 x 12.5 bfgs with no rubbing except extreme trails
then sell your 31's and get 33's
 

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renorider40 said:
also another question. I remember seeing a chart that said you could only fit 32 inch tires on with a 3" lift. Is that true? I have 31's on right now so how would I only be able to fit a tire that is one inch bigger with a 3" lift.
On 95-04 Tacos, it's not just the diameter, it's also the width of the tire that affects clearance. The tire can not only hit the front and back part of the fenders, but can also rub the frame and hit the upper control arm/ball joint. A rim that provides less backspacing (sticks out more) doesn't necessarily solve the problem, either.

Like Captain J said, though, hammering and even some cutting may be required in the pinchweld and floorboard area of the rear part of the front fender to clear bigger tires with modest to no lift. Expedition West details an explanation on how to fit larger diameter (taller), but narrower, tires (33x10 equivalents) with modest lift:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bfg_mt_km.html

To fit the wider and more common tire size of 33x12.50, you'll probably have to lift it more and get rims with different offset/backspacing, though.

Hope this helps.
 
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